54 Super H

[Deano4863]

I picked up a "new" tractor today. After checking the date codes 12-22-Y looks like it has a birthday this month. The serial # is also unique,22223. That puts it at the 21st SH built in 1954. It amazingly complete and hasn"t been butchered or cobbled up. That's the good news. The bad news is the motor is siezed after the exhaust was left open for who knows how long. Worse yet after pulling the drian plug nothing came out until I poked around and then got 3 gallons of water and no oil. This is not good. I will start pulling the motor apart but the question is will it even be rebuildable? Anybody rebuilt one that had that much water in it?

 

[Doug Ct]

I have not,but I love when someone uses the word "cobbled" its so funny.I would rather have your frozen H than a cobble job myself.Good luck!

 

[Anonymous-0]

In regards to your question on the engine block on your 54 SH, most of the time the bore's will be split open on the inside on one or the other cylinder's. This usually means another block will be needed. Try posting a want ad on YT for a replacement

 

[Marty from MN]

It might take you awhile and some cash (new bearings, rings, pistons, gaskets, sleeves?, oil pump?), but you won't know until yu get in there. I rebuilt a continental engine in a Massey 44 that had 4 or 5 gallons of water in the oil. Had to pull everything but the crank shaft. I had to hone the inside of the sleeves to take of the surface rust, but after a lot of cleaning and new rings, it fired back up.

Good luck to you. Drop the pan and pull the head and see what you find.

 

[Deano4863]

OLD TS This is a Texas tractor. Theoretically we don't get cold enough for long enough to freeze anything solid. Is their any other reason than freezing things would split?

 

[El Toro]

Pull the head and pour ATF on top of the pistons and let it soak. There's plenty of new sleeve/piston kits available. Remove the oil pan and unbolt one of the connecting rods and use a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer and see if you can drive the rod & piston out. It would be easier to work on if you remove the engine. If the pistons won't move after soaking
pour some kerosene on top of a piston and set it on fire. Don't do this in the building or near a building. Once the kerosene burns off use the oak and hammer on the connecting rod. The heat should free them. Hal

 

[Red Mist]

In a case like this, you never know unless you inspect and try. You will know a lot more after you get it torn down....
mike

 

[Brian Schmidt]

Maybe try the 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Read about this here as the best penetrant available during lab testing.

Another thing I have done is with the head off, is pour gas on top of the pistons and light them all. The heat makes it expand and can quickly loosen up a set of stuck pistons. I would recomend doing it somewhere you have a really high ceiling or outside on a non windy day.

 

[GordoSD]

That would be an early stage II SH , cast codes make it a 53. I have last week of production SH# 291xx.

Gordo