old1850d

Member
Just rebuilt a 550 and am having trouble keeping it running for any length of time, I was having carb issues but i believe ive got that under control.The tractor runs for awhile than sputters and dies with no smoke. I replaced the wiring harness with one from Korves but i dont think there was a resitor wire going to the coil. So im wondering where can i put this resitor? can this go inbetween the feed wire to the coil and the coil or wont this work Thanks Lyle
 
The 550 does not use a resistor. It uses a 12 volt coil. Have you taken the sediment bowl assembly out of the tank and checked for contamination in there? Have you rigged up a little tool to see if the level of fuel in the bowl is correct? Have you used a vacuum gauge to see where you are at?
 
if the 550 dont use a resistor should i take mine off?? it has a small white one that looks like it is for a dodge car. it runs fine the way it is but i didnt know it wasnt suppose to be there. thanks
 
John i have not hooked up a vacum guage but i sure will i am about ready to blow this thing up tell me what Im looking for thanks in advance for the help Lyle
 
For both of you: If the tractor has a 12 volt coil you do NOT use the external resistor. More details tonight if it rains once. J.
 
Most 12 volt coils have a built in resister. If you happen to have a coil that don't have it, you need it, other wise not. If you take it off and it starts burning up points, you need to put it back on.
 
These guys are correct. 550 is a 12 volt system and should not have a resistor. The white porcelain resistors like on dodge cars are from taking a 12 volt battery to a 6 volt coil. You should have 12 volt coils on the 550.

If you say that you cannot run it for any length of time without it quitting, my guess would be fuel as well. Can you restart the tractor right away or do you need to let it sit? How does it start? Give us a little more information.
 
Thanks for the replys, the tank was cleaned as good as possible before i put it on minimal rust really not much, put on a new sediment bowl right away. the tractor runs real well for differnt lengths of time than gradually starts laboring- no smoke starts poping- backfires than dies-pulling the choke does not help. have put in 3 differnt needle and seats am now using a stainless steel needle no rubber tip.Have taken the sediment bowl off and let gas run for long periods with no blockage.The tractor has to set for awhile before it will start again maybe 5 min. I have set the float to 3 differnt settings but the same results. Is there any possibility that my voltage regulator which is new could not be working properly when the tractor firs starts the voltage to the coil is 12 volts and as the tractor runs the voltage goes up to-13.48 an which i thought was normall and thats when the tractor starts to labor than dies. well thats it for now i need to go fix some a/c will check back later thanks Lyle
 
ok il have to look at mine, it has a gm alternator on it and is 12V but i dont know if they replaced the 6V coil or used the resistor to be cheap. thanks
 
It was 12 volt positive ground to start with. You also need to check if they changed the polarity of the coil when the tractor was converted from + to _ ground. Confused?
 
LOL not to much i can look at it today and see witch wire they have running to witch post on the coil. thanks
 
ok i went and fed the mosquitoes :( it is a 12V the + goes to the resistor then to the key, the - goes to the distributor, its a 12 - ground why would they use a resistor? to make the coil last longer? im confused now LOL
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O-K got out in the shed this am and had gas on the floor, took the carb off again and put air pressure on the needle and seat with soap around it and did find some leakage around the gasket on the seat so i think that is only part of the problem i am going to try a differnt coil as soon as i can get this carb sealed up or find a differnt one , the threads are really rough and i dont know if i can seal it
 
Had a similar problem with a 550 and finally discoved that the float would not move freely when installed on bowl, alignment of the float pontoons fixed the problem. worth considering. to check this remove carb and turn upside down listening if float moves up and down freely.
 
how good are your manifold gaskets? when the tractor gets warm they expand in turn changes the gap and tractor will start missing and finally quit. cure, have manifolds plained and install new gaskets.
 
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