601

[Tony L]

I am going to put a clutch kit in my Grandfathers old 601 workmaster tractor. I saw the clutch kit on here and just want to know what all I will need to replace inside the housing besides what comes with the clutch kit. I saw some sleeves and what not that sold seperate. I have never split one of those tractors. I have a 700 Ford as well that I have not split either.

 

[forddoc]

always a good idea to replace input seal while you're there. also check flywheel ring gear.

 

[Ken-Pa]

Hi , The best & first thing you wanta do is : get yourself 3 very important manuals . Owners manual , an IT service manual & a parts manual . Study the parts on replacing a clutch . Please use as much cuation as possible . have a helper . Get yourself plenty of blocking & a floor jack . If you use cement blocks (not advisible) , always set a cement block with the holes up (never with the holes sideways ) . Since you"ve never done one before & unless you are in a big hurry for the tractor , I"d split it first , then see what all you need . Take pictures of the process so you will know how it looked as you did it . That way you will have pics of how it should be as you reassemble it . Have coffee cans marked with bolt locations , like tie rod bolts , tranny to bell housing bolts , & etc .Saves alot of confusion that way . Clean up everything . Be careful not to get any oil on the new clutch or pressure plate . You could have the pressure plate checked out to be sure its ok to reuse before ordering parts .I"d replace the throw out bearing while you"re in there to be safe . Now, before reassembling , make sure the cotter pin is in the weep hole at the bottom of the bellhousing . Also check & maybe replace the front seal of the tranny while there . All this will save ya having to resplit to do it thinking about saving money (unless you have so much fun , you don"t mind redoing the job . Hopefully I"m not confusing you . Good luck & be careful . God bless

 

[Anonymous-0]

Just put a new clutch and pressure plate in my 640.I put a sheet of plywood down to get a smooth surface for the floor jack to roll on.The engine was held by an engine hoist.Spliting a Ford is a nasty job,have some help.We unbolted the steering box from the transmission, left the tie rods on.The steering box can be wedged up a bit so you can check the spline alignment with a flashlite.The floor jack works better than blocking because you can roll the rear section back out of the way.The Ford tractor Shop manual should be on hand.It has 422 pages,much better than the ITT manuals.

 

[souNdguy]

make some wood wedges and drive into the axle stops at the front to keep the engine from laying over on the side.

can use the input shaft as an align tool

DO repalce input shaft seal.

if this is a dual clutch model.. flywheel won't matter much.

soundguy

 

[Jim.UT]

Ditto what's been said so far. I did that job (my first time, too) on my 850 about a year and a half ago. I took pictures along the way. Some of the optional stuff I chose to do included replacing the transmission input shaft seal, resurfacing the flywheel, new throw-out bearing, new ring gear and pilot bearing on the flywheel and I had the flywheel resurfaced.

The link below will take you to the photos I took of the job. You can either click on the first thumbnail and then click "next" to see them in order with explanatory captions, or you can click on "slideshow" to have them scroll by automatically. If you use the slideshow, have your mouse ready on the pause button so you can stop, look and read the caption on some of the more interesting shots (if there are any).
Clutch job photos

 

[john_Bud]

First off buy a half dozen cans of foaming engine cleaner and clean the machine up good. Take off the bottom access plate (4 bolts hole in the middle should have a cotter pin in the hole). Then foam the snockers out of the inside of the bell housing. The cleaner you get it, the easier the job. Pressure wash thru the hole in the bell housing after the steering pedestal is lifted up. Gunk in the bell housing can make a good clutch go bad and can hold water on the hydraulic pipes an that means a leak.

Next Buy a penetrant and slather that onto every bolt and nut you can find. Do that every day for 2-7 days. Depending on how much time you have. I use stuff from GM. Best stuff I've found. It's the stuff the mechanics use and they don't have time to diddle around as they are barely paid enough to finish the job w/o stuck bolts.

An impact wrench (a QUALITY one not a HF POS one) is a real good thing to have on hand. Zipping off the bolts is fun! Unlike cussing and straining on a breaker bar... But, you use them to take stuff apart, not put it back. They can snap heads off of bolts fast.

I also would say to put on a new starter ring (30 bucks or so), input shaft seal (15 bucks) along with the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate. I take off the flywheel and run a long board sander with 40 grit, then 80 grit to remove light scratches. A 120 grip DA sander gives the final finish. It's fast and works well -- as long as the flywheel is in good shape and not seriously grooved.

Remember to mark the flywheel with a punch so you know which end is up. They only go on one way and holding that heavy thing while trying to find the right way is a pain in the patoot! Also, clean the flywheel face (engine side) and paint it white around the timing marks and put a black paint mark at the correct time. Makes tuning easy.

To put it back, get some 8" long bolts, cut the heads off and hand thread them into the block at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions. That will help you get the trans and engine back close. Then use bottle jacks to get the gap around between the engine and trans the same on both side and top/bottom. This is important! Being off a wee bit = frustration. Being perfect = it sliding in nice. Make SURE that the trans is in Neutral on assembly. If not you will have a hard time.

And NEVER NEVER NEVER slide in a bolt and use that to pull the halves together. That will mess up the clutch and make you cry when you have to rip it apart and buy new stuff.

If it won't go together, double check your gaps. Jack up the engine or trans. Wiggle the rear wheels. If it fails, back it out and try again.

good luck

 

[Tony L]

Thanks !! I believe we are going to tackle it in bout two weeks. I have to wait for the parts to come in and I have bout 160 acres left of square hay to put up if the rain will allow me.I have a concrete pad to work on so I hope all will go well.