6013

[TGIN]

I always use 6011 welding rods for my repairs and general duck puddling and have had real good luck . The other day a friend gave me about 50 lbs. of 6013 , what is the intended use for these rods compared to what I am used to ?

 

[Tom-TX]

One difference is the 6011 is deep penetration, the 6013 is shallow penetration. Go to Lincoln website and look up specs. Tom

 

[tomNE]

both are good rods. 6013 makes a prettier weld but it doesn't like rusty-dirty metal. I use 6011 about 95% of the time. keep the 6013 dry and use it when the need arrises.

 

[trucker 40]

6013 is for sheetmetal.You can weld with it,but its easy to get slag inclusions in the weld.Its not near as strong as 6011.Its not near as good for repairs as 6011.

 

[JDseller]

Like Tom stated both rods are the same strength steel, 60,000 psi steel. The difference is in the flux. The 6011 rod is a deeper penetrating rod. The 6013 is a low penetration rod. Both have there place to be used. On flat welds 6013 will work good if you clean up the joint. Plus it will not burn through thinner metal. I many times use a 6011 to burn deep and then grind the weld clean. Then make a pass of 6013 over it to complete the weld. 6011 are easier to vertical and over head weld with because they will burn through their own flux puddle. 6013 will not burn through its own flus trail. You just end up with flux inclusion in the finished weld. On new steel I really like 6013 as you can make a very good looking weld that is strong.

Many guys use 6011 only as they weld a lot of rusty metal and don"t prepare the weld area. The 6011 will leave a rough looking weld. Truthfully any welding done over rust is not as strong as a weld on a cleaned up joint.

Just like a lot of people spray paint over a tractor and call it restored. Too many weld through rust/dirt and call it a weld.

 

[Anonymous-0]

6011 and 6013 are completely different rods. 6013 is pretty much non existant in commercial welding shops because it is the lowest strength rod made. Tensile strength is only a small part of what gives a weld or welding rod strength. 6013 is good for sheet metal and other projects that don't really need much strength. 7014 burns very similar and is a much better choice. 6013 burns easy on low end AC machines. That's why it is popular with farmers and other occasional users. 7014 is still a better choice.

That said, 6013 and 7014 are designed for static loading where their is no twisting or pulling on the welds. 6011 is an AC version of a 6010 which has deep penetration and is designed for dynamic loading where the welds are subject to twisting and pulling. The best rods for dynamic loading are low hydrogen rods than end in 18, like 7018. There are the odd times where 6013 have been used in welding shops but they are extremely rare. Don't try to substitute 6013 for 6011 on something you want strong. Substituting 6011 for 6013 you'd add strength.

 

[Anonymous-0]

There's a heck of a lot more difference than just penetration. The Lincoln chart is about as basic as it gets so as not to confuse non professional welders.

 

[Puddles]

(quoted from post at 06:08:15 06/19/11)The other day a friend gave me about 50 lbs. of 6013

Give them back! :lol:

 

[RodinNS]

Intended use? Making you feel special when your friend gave you 50# of useless rods...
Like some others have said, they're low penetration. Might be Ok for light use, sheet metal... but for anything you want to hold, use a 7018.

Rod

 

[PJH]

I've used a lot of Lincoln 6013's and like them. I currently have some Hobart 6013's that I don't like at all. You didn't say what diameter they are - the smaller the better for light gauge welding. I have some little Lincoln rods that I run at about 50-70 amps for delicate stuff. Other rods are better for farm type repair, but you might like them for some jobs. Approach them with an open mind and see for yourself.

Paul

 

[Puddles]

I use to be a fair hand with a stinger, but not anymore! I never ran any 6013 on the job, but a few years ago I gave them a try. Here's about as good as I can do with it.







:shock:

 

[Tom-TX]

Hey Stick Welder, did you READ my post? Read it again. I clearly said "one difference" and did not in any way say there wasnt a lot of other differences. Why jump on someone, when you did not read the post? Have a good day.
Tom

 

[Lanse]

They're not that bad...

The problem is when people try to use them for proposes they're not intended for, and then they fail.

6013 was kind of the bridge between O/A welding and MIG welding thin stuff. Its not that hard to run, although not getting slag holes in it is another story. It is VERY sensitive to slag. If I had two pieces of 1/8" or 3/16" material, and I couldn't mig them, I would 1/8" 6013 them, and run a bead on both sides of the material.

They weren't made for 1/4+" material, they weren't made for fixing thick farm equipment, and they certainly weren't made for deep penetration, in fact, just the opposite. They have a propose, and they do it well, but they are strictly limited to that propose.

I find that running an 1/8" rod at a pretty steep drag angle eliminates slag problems, but 3/32" rods are slag hole city. Just my observations.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I didn't jump on you, so why take offence? You did not say in any way that there were a lot of other differences either. I pointed out there are a LOT more differences. If you were welding a V groove, you could have 100% penetration with either rod but the 6011 would be a WAY stronger weld. 6011 and 6013 are so different from each other, it's not even worth comparing them. It's like comparing a Toyota Echo to a Ferrari Enzo when you're looking for a high performance car. Technically they are both cars and share a few common components but that's where the comparison ends. It's pretty much the same comparing 6011 to 6013.

 

[Puddles]

Lanse I think I gave you a link to the site where I ran the test with 7014? I haven't run much of either 6013 or 7014, but I think I like 7014 better. But I'll take 7018 over either one of those. :wink:

 

[Lanse]

Yes sir, you posted those on TBN, where you go by
shield arc

And they still look great. I like running 6010 and
7018, but Im always up for trying new things.

I think I like 6013 just because we ran a lot of
it in school, my teacher is really old school.

But we never did 7014 for some reason? Travis (the
kid from some of my videos) burns through that
stuff like popcorn, so maybe I should try some
sometime. Thanks for sharing...

I understand that 7014 gets more penetration than
6013?

 

[36 Coupe]

6013 are fine if you know where to use them.My garden cart has a 1/8 by 3/4 frame welded up with 6013.It can haul 200 lb of fertilizer.No welds failed.The frame for my DC convertor is made from the same stock.My old welder cant run 7018.My trailer was built over 40 years ago with 6011 and 6013 no welds failed.7018 are hard to use even with a welder that can handle them.I use a lot of stainless rod.Buy it cheap because nobody knows how to use it.I can weld new exhaust tubing with 308 309 stainless.Expert on the welding web says thats impossible.

 

[36 Coupe]

Lanse, you are a lot smarter than some of the experts that post on here.I used a lot of 7014 over the years.7014 has a lot of iron powder in the coating.All my light work is done with 6013.

 

[Stan in Oly, WA]

Hi Puddles,

That's some beautiful work, to the absolute suprise of nobody on this site. Were those welds all vertical up? 6013 and 7014 are generally difficult to use in any out of position application.

I've used lots of 6013 as a surface texture for a certain type of metal sculpture. Used that way it has certain characteristics in both the application and the finish that I haven't been able to achieve with other stick electrodes. I fully expect some of the hardcore types here to tell me now why it's no good for that.

In the bottom picture you posted, there appear to be numerous voids with slag inclusions. Is that what those are? To me, that's the worst charactersitic of 6013, and it seems to happen often and unpredictably. I've never been able to pin down the specific circumstances that cause that to happen. Do you know? It's just a matter of curiosity to me.

Stan

 

[Stan in Oly, WA]

Hi Lanse,

In Lincoln Electric's Stick Electrode Product Catalog, their Fleetweld 47 ASW: E7014 is described in the section Typical Applications with this statement (among others): "Generally used for thicker steel than E6012 and E6013 electrodes." That would seem to suggest that it has deeper penetration than either of those rods, although the issue is somewhat clouded by it being a 70XX series rod and the others being 60XX. I'd be inclined to say that the difference in tensile strengths shouldn't matter in this particular area of comparison, but I've found it risky to make that kind of assumption when there's so much I don't know and so much I don't completely understand. Interesting, isn't it?

All the best, Stan

 

[Puddles]

Stan this is 6013 vertical up.


And this is 7014 vertical up.




I'm not real fond of 6013 or 7014 just because of the chance of the slag inclusions. You really have to run them with lots of rod angle, and hot. The rod angle is to force the slag behind the puddle. When I ran the 7014 test plate I had to be on my toes until about the 3rd pass. The 7014 didn't like being down in a tight V! Where as 7018 doesn't seem to care where you run it. But maybe that's because I've run tons of 7018, and only a few pounds of 6013 and 7014. I really like 7018, mainly because I can strike an arc and take a nap until the rod is burnt up. :lol:

 

[Anonymous-0]

Stan, I would bet that the mechanical properties other than tensile strength are also better with 7014 and it does have more penetration. I think 7014 can stand a little bit of light dynamic loading as well. 7024 is basically the same thing but has more iron powder in the coating and it is used a lot in industry. 7024 is referred to as a Jet rod because all the iron powder in the coating makes for faster deposition rates and welding speeds. However, it is losing popularity due to the increased use of flux-core wire. I worked in couple oilfield tank shops and 7024 was used extensively for building the tanks. Lots of 6010 downhand too. 7018 was used for out of position and things that needed to be stronger, like ladder rungs. I built hooped safety ladders for 7 1/2 months. That was my first job as an apprenticeship right out of high school. It sure beat leaning on a 7" grinder as a new apprentice.:wink:

 

[RodinNS]

7018 are not hard to use... You could run a 7018AC on a crackerbox if you wanted to. For the number of applications where I could 'use' 6013... it's pointless to keep them around. There's certainly nothing where they're 'required' for use but they perhaps do make a pretty weld if you were big into doing ornamental work.

Rod

 

[36 Coupe]

I have 2 cross members on my pick up box pretty well rusted away by road salt.They are formed sheetmetal spot welded to the box floor.6013 will be used for repair, any thing else would produce a lot of burn thru.Its just a matter of using the right rod for the job at hand.These cross members stiffen the thin gauge box floor.There are plenty of welders that cant handle 7018.My old Weld Master is one of them.Its 150 amp wound with DDC copper wire.I have a Lincoln 225 for the jobs that need 7018.

 

[36 Coupe]

Ive seen so many weld break tests.I think Ill go out and kick my welders and never draw another arc.