moline

Member
I have a 60LP that I refurbished.The tractor will not start below 35 Degrees.The engine will fire about twice and quit.It will do this all day or until the batteries are dead.The regulator is resealed,carb is resealed,air cleaner has fresh oil in it,new points ,plugs,cap,rotor,wires,battery cables,wiring harness.I have the JD parts,ops,service and LP service manuals.I have checked and rechecked settings and adjustments.I have set the throttle and choke in all different places as well as the way the manuals say.The tractor runs like a champ and pulls exactly rated horse on the dyno---above 35 degrees.I have overprimed it until the air filter bubbles,I have primed it as it fires-no difference.Anybody ran into this?What am I overlooking?We just got 6 inchs of fluffy snow,perfect for plowing and I had to use my MM instead.Thanks for the help guys
 
Is your by-pass starting sytem still intact? If so what happens if you stay on the starter pedal even after it starts? If it keeps running then you have a weak spark b/c it is creating enough spark as long as you are inducing 12V on the 6V coil.

If this proves to be true then you will want to look at your ignition system. Your coil could be weak, or your points may have corrosion on the contacts.

LP tractors need really good spark to start and run, and even better spark in cold weather.
 
How's your plug gap ? aren't those to be like only .015" ? or something alot closer then a gas engine.
 
Hey Moline, My 630 & 730 LP crank good when cold, so I'm not much help to you there BUT I do have a 60 LP to put back into operating condition.......could you email me photos of your's? Thank you greatly, Paul
 
Are you starting it on vapor or liquid? We always start ours on vapor and switch it to liquid after it warms up. Just a thought...
 
I agree. Sounds like low voltage due to a too small battery, too small cables, high resisitance path through the battery box. And/or a non functional starting bypass circuit.
 
I have not tried to pull start it.If it started,that would point the finger at the batteries/cables/connections.I do have the bypass intact and I jumpered the resistor once just to make sure it was working.I made the cables out of 2/0(really fun to get it in the holders)all crimped connections with heat shrink.No bolt on ends.I will go back and check all grounds and connections also.Thanks for the help guys!
 
One item I don't see mentioned here is the weight of the oil in the air cleaner cup.

LP's are naturally picky about this! If the oil is too heavy it can "choke" the engine by restricting the incoming air. When it fires (and it probably does so quite stoutly) there is a VERY sudden drop in manifold pressure and the fuel system will work to deliver more fuel just as quickly! If the oil can't get out of the way and let air in fast enough it could be that it is simply flooding to death because of over choking caused by the oil bath air cleaner.

Flooding is supported by your mention of how additional priming when it does putt does NOT seem to help it catch and run. You may well be adding more fuel to an already flooded engine!

LP's can quickly purge from the flooded condition and then fire again but flood again just as quickly by the restricted air filter.

You might try a lighter oil in the filter or even try no cup at all to see if it comes to life! Probably won't run "right" without the cup but if it starts you've found something.

My pair o coppers for the cause.

Later.
 
You said nothing about the starter, was it gone through also? It could be drawing too much when it's cold. One thing to try would be to turn on the vapor valve on for just a second and turn it off and try to start and if it starts turn it on real quick . If you suspect it is flooding and sounds like it might be, try turning the fuel off at the tank and continue to crank and see if it starts to hit and if it does just crack the valve on until it starts
 
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