'62 JD 4010 Wheel Industrial "IP" Help please

Hello all, new member here. I just came across this site and I could really use some help. I just picked up a '62 JD Wheel INDUSTRIAL (SN 4010 25T58417)
I actually ran it about 10yrs ago but the owner took it home and let her sit. Needless to say, I cant get it to run. I put in new filters and a lift pump, bled the air out to the IP but I can't get any fuel out of the steel lines. I did remove the IP correctly after lining up the marks. I removed the side cover and the fuel shut off was stuck. I got it moving freely now. Re-assembled but still no fuel out to the steel lines.

It looks like he tried to start it but gave up a few yrs back. I'm thinking he removed the top of the IP. Should the "C" on the rotor be facing up or down? The "C" was up when I opened it up.
Looking down from the top, the pump turns counter clockwise. Looking through the side cover window it rotates from left to right. Roosa Master DBG VC 631---4AF

Are these old tractors Positive or negative ground?

I have to get this tractor moved to my property ASAP.

I do need a SM2045 manual. I'm confident I can tear it down, inspect, mic, clean and re-seal and reassemble. But I'm not sure where I should look for the best parts and upgrades because of the ultra low sulfur fuel. So many cheap parts out there these days. If I have to tear it apart, I would rather buy whatever it takes to do it right and as quick as possible.

I thank you in advance
Rusty

This post was edited by Rusty.Staples on 01/19/2022 at 10:21 pm.
 

Welcome to YT
If this 4010 still has 24 volt electrical system it doesn't have a ground for starting or charging circuits as these components are insulated from tractor frame. Lights & accessories are both 12 volt positive & 12 volt negative ground.

As stated in another thread Dieseltech should be responding with contact info & information.
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If you need to move it right away, you might want to look into having it hauled by someone that can winch it on. It sounds like the work needed to get it started may take a bit.

My personal opinion is that one is better off to send an injection pump to a shop/person who specializes in working on them and has the tools and equipment to do the job right, including calibration after overhaul.

Did you get the service and operator's manuals with it? If not, you are going to want to get copies of those (not just the SM2045) right away.
 

I ended up removing the injection pump, I bought a new seal kit, new transfer pump blades and liner and also a one piece weight basket. The fuel distribution valve inside the rotor shaft was stuck. Took me two days to get it out. The plungers were also stuck. I took my time cleaning it very thoroughly and reassembled. Super easy to rebuild. Everything inside the pump was actually very clean other than the stuck parts from sitting for 15 years. Lightly varnished but not too bad. After I bled the lines, it started right up and now runs like a top. Luckily all the hydraulics etc. work and I drove it right home. I do need to find an operators manual. And I have recently bought a I&T shop manual. I need to do some research and find a part numbers for the engine oil and Hyd filters because I need to change the engine oil and hydraulic oil ASAP.
 

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