63 4010 with low power issue , perhaps

[Eric_RCM]

Hello all,

My brother in law and I recently purchased 100 acres upstate NY, property came with a few tractors and implements. One was a 63 4010, that the old owner used for his food plots and planting etc, supposedly 3 years ago, I’m thinking more like 6 it stopped being used. Being a car mechanic for 38 years I did get it up and running , fixed a small hydraulic leak , replaced the leaking fuel tank, changed the fuel filters etc.
The running issue from what I found out was a stuck fuel cut in the injector pump. So I decided to rebuild the pump. I did follow the repair manual on removal of the pump, found TDC. Removed the timing window, lined up the marks. Even marked the body and the block for reference.
I watched a video on R&R making sure to keep rotations and all proper. Nothing was actually broken on the pump.
Now my issue. The tractor runs ok on the flat road. But will not tach past 1500 rpm going on any incline on the the property. I haven’t tried any implements. I don’t have another old JD to compare it to. But it seems to run ok, it just tachs rpm rather slowly , smokes a little white smoke . No smoke or pressure out of the pcv tube under the tractor.
I’m pretty sure I have the pump in properly, it starts right up. Just doesn’t seem to tach up as quick as the newer tractor we have. It moves really slow you can hear how slow and low the rpm actually is so I don’t think it’s the new tach.
I did bleed the system of air, I do have fuel going back into the tank from the return. Not sure if an injector is bleeding fuel.
If this was a gas engine I would say I need to crank up the timing, I have zero old diesel tractor experience, but is an engine after all.
Would anyone have any helpful insight as to what could possibly be that I need to tackle or look into.

I totally restored it from the ugly mess it was to shine and new. I’ll try to post a picture

 

[Eric_RCM]

Here is a few picture before and after

 

[NY 986]

Hello all,

My brother in law and I recently purchased 100 acres upstate NY, property came with a few tractors and implements. One was a 63 4010, that the old owner used for his food plots and planting etc, supposedly 3 years ago, I’m thinking more like 6 it stopped being used. Being a car mechanic for 38 years I did get it up and running , fixed a small hydraulic leak , replaced the leaking fuel tank, changed the fuel filters etc.
The running issue from what I found out was a stuck fuel cut in the injector pump. So I decided to rebuild the pump. I did follow the repair manual on removal of the pump, found TDC. Removed the timing window, lined up the marks. Even marked the body and the block for reference.
I watched a video on R&R making sure to keep rotations and all proper. Nothing was actually broken on the pump.
Now my issue. The tractor runs ok on the flat road. But will not tach past 1500 rpm going on any incline on the the property. I haven’t tried any implements. I don’t have another old JD to compare it to. But it seems to run ok, it just tachs rpm rather slowly , smokes a little white smoke . No smoke or pressure out of the pcv tube under the tractor.
I’m pretty sure I have the pump in properly, it starts right up. Just doesn’t seem to tach up as quick as the newer tractor we have. It moves really slow you can hear how slow and low the rpm actually is so I don’t think it’s the new tach.
I did bleed the system of air, I do have fuel going back into the tank from the return. Not sure if an injector is bleeding fuel.
If this was a gas engine I would say I need to crank up the timing, I have zero old diesel tractor experience, but is an engine after all.
Would anyone have any helpful insight as to what could possibly be that I need to tackle or look into.

I totally restored it from the ugly mess it was to shine and new. I’ll try to post a picture

Good flow of fuel from the filter assembly going to the injector pump? You did the rebuild? You did not perhaps make a mistake in the rebuild?

 

[Tx Jim]

I suggest to advance IP timing a degree or 2 while engine isn't operating. Check to be sure tank is venting while engine is operating.

 

[Eric_RCM]

Good flow of fuel from the filter assembly going to the injector pump? You did the rebuild? You did not perhaps make a mistake in the rebuild?

Yes fantastic flow from tank to IP.
I did the rebuild. Correct. As far as a mistake . I watched a few videos on rebuilding roosa master pumps. They seem very straight forward. Not many parts inside . Keep the clock rotation correct all marks . Took tons of photos upon tear down. Even mic’d the pump bearings when I put the spring on.
I’m assuming all is correct.

 

[Eric_RCM]

I suggest to advance IP timing a degree or 2 while engine isn't operating. Check to be sure tank is venting while engine is operating.

How exactly do you advance the pump timing. I know there are slots in the bottom but the steel lines would be pretty off if I moved the pump in either direction.

Unless you are saying take all the lines off the injector turn the pump then bend the lines to fit the injectors.
As far as fuel going back into the tank. I know I have fuel in the return line . Just don’t know how many GPH in fuel should be going back. It’s a small line so I’m assuming very little fuel should be running back.
It’s not a trickle . But it is slow

 

[JIM MN]

Do you have the injector pump timed correct to the tractor, the two lines in the pump window lined up to the correct degrees on the tractors flywheel??

 

[Eric_RCM]

Do you have the injector pump timed correct to the tractor, the two lines in the pump window lined up to the correct degrees on the tractors flywheel??

Yes .

 

[Tx Jim]

How exactly do you advance the pump timing. I know there are slots in the bottom but the steel lines would be pretty off if I moved the pump in either direction.

Unless you are saying take all the lines off the injector turn the pump then bend the lines to fit the injectors.
As far as fuel going back into the tank. I know I have fuel in the return line . Just don’t know how many GPH in fuel should be going back. It’s a small line so I’m assuming very little fuel should be running back.
It’s not a trickle . But it is slow

With engine not operating & inj lines securely attached, timing window cover removed exposing timing marks, loosen IP retaining nuts & turn IP so to advance timing a degree or 2 with a pair of large channel lock pliers.

 

[Eric_RCM]

With engine not operating & inj lines securely attached, timing window cover removed exposing timing marks, loosen IP retaining nuts & turn IP so to advance timing a degree or 2 with a pair of large channel lock pliers.

Ok, I’ll give that a shot over the weekend , hopefully it’s that simple, it seems like it needs advance , wasn’t sure that’s would be the correct thing to do.
Thanks to all that has answered

 

[SDMike]

Yes .

One thing to remember, 4010’s time at 14 degrees, not TDC. (Learned the hard way)

 

[Eric_RCM]

I did read that. But thought it was built into the IP and without a timing light I have no idea how to tell.
I just know I had the window open both top and lower lines aligned. Crank seemed to be at TDC on flywheel.
I marked the body of the IP with the block.
And the bottom of the IP shaft is keyed.
It seemed pretty straightforward.

I guess not .

 

[SDMike]

There is a flywheel inspection plate that you can open. I know on my 63' 4010 that there was a TDC mark and a 14 degrees mark. On mine, if I remember correctly, when I had my pump rebuilt, had to have the 14 degree mark in the window lined up AND have the the 2 lines in the injector pump window lined up before slipping the pump down into the the slot. Hope this helps OR more knowledgeable people will chime in to help.
Best of luck.
Mike

 

[JIM MN]

Good information Mike. You are correct . Different injector pump, different timing...

 

[Dieseltech]

The JD 3010 and 4010 ORIGINAL injection pumps had NO speed advance, The 3010 suffix 4AF and 5AF were timed 10 degrees BTDC, and 4010 with suffix 4AF and 11AF were 14 degrees BTDC. Pumps COULD be updated with speed advance similar to the 3020 and 4020 and were timed differently. The 3010 with suffix 8AJ are timed 4 degrees BTDC and 4010 with suffix 1AJ are timed 8 degrees BTDC. Best verify which pump is being used for the correct timing setting.

 

[Eric_RCM]

There is a flywheel inspection plate that you can open. I know on my 63' 4010 that there was a TDC mark and a 14 degrees mark. On mine, if I remember correctly, when I had my pump rebuilt, had to have the 14 degree mark in the window lined up AND have the the 2 lines in the injector pump window lined up before slipping the pump down into the the slot. Hope this helps OR more knowledgeable people will chime in to help.
Best of luck.
Mike

Yes , with the plate off I had it t tdc. The flywheel is old and corroded so I didn’t see any other marks.

 

[Eric_RCM]

The JD 3010 and 4010 ORIGINAL injection pumps had NO speed advance, The 3010 suffix 4AF and 5AF were timed 10 degrees BTDC, and 4010 with suffix 4AF and 11AF were 14 degrees BTDC. Pumps COULD be updated with speed advance similar to the 3020 and 4020 and were timed differently. The 3010 with suffix 8AJ are timed 4 degrees BTDC and 4010 with suffix 1AJ are timed 8 degrees BTDC. Best verify which pump is being used for the correct timing setting.

So I have no real maintenance history other than what the previous owner of 15 years had, and that was very little, 12v conversion, oil changes , and a few tire rod ends.

i do have a 1AJ pump, internals I would. Only assume are original. Over the pst 50 years prior it may have been serviced. I don’t know.

 

[Dieseltech]

So I have no real maintenance history other than what the previous owner of 15 years had, and that was very little, 12v conversion, oil changes , and a few tire rod ends.

i do have a 1AJ pump, internals I would. Only assume are original. Over the pst 50 years prior it may have been serviced. I don’t know.

It's been serviced at least once, that's when it was updated with advance housing parts to make it a 1AJ pump and WHY it should now be timed at 8 degrees BTDC, NOT 14 as original pump was.

 

[flying belgian]

Hello all,

My brother in law and I recently purchased 100 acres upstate NY, property came with a few tractors and implements. One was a 63 4010, that the old owner used for his food plots and planting etc, supposedly 3 years ago, I’m thinking more like 6 it stopped being used. Being a car mechanic for 38 years I did get it up and running , fixed a small hydraulic leak , replaced the leaking fuel tank, changed the fuel filters etc.
The running issue from what I found out was a stuck fuel cut in the injector pump. So I decided to rebuild the pump. I did follow the repair manual on removal of the pump, found TDC. Removed the timing window, lined up the marks. Even marked the body and the block for reference.
I watched a video on R&R making sure to keep rotations and all proper. Nothing was actually broken on the pump.
Now my issue. The tractor runs ok on the flat road. But will not tach past 1500 rpm going on any incline on the the property. I haven’t tried any implements. I don’t have another old JD to compare it to. But it seems to run ok, it just tachs rpm rather slowly , smokes a little white smoke . No smoke or pressure out of the pcv tube under the tractor.
I’m pretty sure I have the pump in properly, it starts right up. Just doesn’t seem to tach up as quick as the newer tractor we have. It moves really slow you can hear how slow and low the rpm actually is so I don’t think it’s the new tach.
I did bleed the system of air, I do have fuel going back into the tank from the return. Not sure if an injector is bleeding fuel.
If this was a gas engine I would say I need to crank up the timing, I have zero old diesel tractor experience, but is an engine after all.
Would anyone have any helpful insight as to what could possibly be that I need to tackle or look into.

I totally restored it from the ugly mess it was to shine and new. I’ll try to post a picture

I can't answer your ? on rpm's but I just wanted to say that is one of the sharpest looking 4010's i've seen in a long time.

 

[Eric_RCM]

It's been serviced at least once, that's when it was updated with advance housing parts to make it a 1AJ pump and WHY it should now be timed at 8 degrees BTDC, NOT 14 as original pump was.

Thank you.
All of you for your help. I’ll be back upstate next weekend and try setting 8*