63 ford 4000 starter button 1 wire q:

[bob kuczynski]

i received a lot of help on this in another topic, and thanks, but it got
crowded and i dont want to miss an important answer.
my 5 speed 4cyl gas 4000 has the 1 wire to factory button sitting on the
tranny plate set up. sean was very helpful with my other questions, but i
need to know where that 1 wire goes to, behind the panel. does it go to the
key?
and, i see a wire cluster where bunches of wires are hooked to. i was told
that is either a pos or neg cluster. should i hook the new button neg to
one of those screws? its behind the air filter canister on the left side of
engine.

 

[Destroked 450]

It s hard to get a good answer to your question without a bit of background information
Your other post asked how to bypass the starter button but you never mentioned it wouldn t crank out to begin with

Have you recently acquired this tractor and it doesn t crank over, or has it recently stopped working
Has any work been done recently or parts swapped
A large part of non cranking issues with those tractors was the wrong starter relay being installed

 

[Andy Wickiser]

It goes to one of the small terminals on the starter solenoid. Below is diagram for 12V neg ground system but 6V pos ground will be the same as far as the starter button goes.

<IMG SRC=https://i.postimg.cc/KYw7hZKV/Ford12VWiring.jpg>

 

[bob kuczynski]

runs just fine using the neutral position pushing the factory button .

 

[bob kuczynski]

is the button that you depress on the tranny cover called the igition lock or the starter switch in that diagram?

 

[Andy Wickiser]

It's called the starter switch.

The second small terminal on the starter solenoid is the ignition interlock. The starter won't operate unless the ignition is on.

So in the end these conditions must be met before the starter will run: transmission in neutral (stock setup anyway, mechanical interlock), ignition on (ignition keyswitch on position), and starter switch pushed down.

 

[bob kuczynski]

ok, so the one wire going to the starter switch is pos or neg? i assume pos, because it grounds to the frame?

 

[bob kuczynski]

ok, i see it. it goes to that cluster i mentioned and red is pos. thanks andy.

now, how do i bypass having to have the shifter in neutral to start the tractor in gear?

 

[Andy Wickiser]

Well it's really neither negative or positive.
It's a wire that connects tractor ground to the starter solenoid when the starter switch is depressed. This action completes the starter solenoid coil circuit which pulls in the main solenoid contacts by electromagnetism and connects battery voltage to the starter thus running the starter.

 

[RobCons]

I have not seen your other post. The gear selector is supposed to be in neutral for the tractor to start. Its the only safety device on the machine. Keeps people from standing in front of the tire, starting the tractor, and getting run over.

 

[Andy Wickiser]

It'really very simple. Get a normally open SPST pushbutton automotive switch that you like, mount it where you want, connect one terminal to the single wire now connected to the starter switch (disconnect from current switch, may need to splice in an extension), and connect the other side to a tractor/battery ground point of your choosing.

 

[bob kuczynski]

so, in theory, if i take off that 1 wire, make a longer lead, and touch it to the battery ground i should crank?
an old fashioned hot wire jump?

 

[Andy Wickiser]

Yes that would work (assuming your ignition key is in the on position as that is a second interlock).

 

[bob kuczynski]

the whole purpose of this topic is to get my tractor to start in gear , not in neutral.
i need to be able to get a broken tractor out of the field on the starter, the old way...just by turning the key on a dead engine, i/e: with no gas.
by grounding this wire, i am bypassing the neutral lock out system, right?

 

[Andy Wickiser]

Yep

 

[bob kuczynski]

thank you andy, im heading out to the barn.

 

[bob kuczynski]

it works. thank you and to all the others who helped.

 

[Hemmjo]

I believe it is important to note here that there are 5 variations on a starter solenoid, that I am aware of. In addition to the 5, they are also available in 6, 12, 24 volt. Knowing how they are different can help with trouble shooting and help you purchase the correct replacement if that becomes necessary.

All solenoids have 2 basic components, the coil and the armature. When the coil is energized, it activates the armature, which connects the 2 BIG terminals together. The small terminals are used to control the solenoid.



The differences are how the coil is wired inside the body, how much current the big terminals can handle and, what voltage the coil is expecting to have. Below are sketches of the 5 types.

The universal type has 4 terminals, 2 big ones and 2 small. It can be adapted to be used in any situation. IF you know how your system works.

There are also solenoids that have 3 terminals. One type has the coil connected to the BATTERY terminal inside the case. This one needs to have the small terminal grounded to be activated. The other type the coil is internally grounded, to activate it you need to provide power to the small terminal.

The last 2 types have 4 terminals, but they are not universal. They are activated just like the 3 terminal type, BUT, the 4th terminal is internally connected to the STARTER terminal. This 4th terminal is used to bypass the resistor in the ignition system.

You can use the universal type of solenoid to replace any of the other types. You simply need to make the proper connections externally between the necessary terminals.

It is important to note, a lot of solenoids are manufactured off-shore using old molds, or copies of old plastic bodies. SOME of them have the I and S marking the terminals, but they may not be ignition bypass type solenoids. The only way to know for sure what you have is to have a volt/ohm meter and learn to test things with it.

Just FYI for what it is worth.

 

[Ultradog MN]

''Its the only safety device on the
machine. Keeps people from standing in
front of the tire, starting the tractor,
and getting run over.''

He knows that. Stated as much in his first
post about this. But he wants to do it his
way.
And you get to do it your way.
Now I can't speak for him but doubt he
would interfere with that.
I have been starting my tractor for a
dozen years with a lynch pin at the
solenoid.
It is my own private way of practicing
situational awareness. I don't try to
push it on anyone else.
The philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche once
wrote: ''That which does not kill us makes
us stronger''
As long as I live I'll keep trying to be
strong and situationally aware. And not
rely on some mechanical contrivance to
protect me from myself.

 

[bob kuczynski]

i dont care to remember how many times the mech was just 20' away from the tractor on the dirt road, and the tractor was in mud where he couldnt service it. push the starter, limp it to the road by just turning it over and the tractor got fixed.
so you are right.
thank you.