630 Power Steering Issues

zilla24

Member
I have a 1959 630 with some power steering issues. I had a significant leak coming from the top input shaft which was just repaired by replacing the O-ring and filled with Deere power steering fluid. The power steering works great when the tractor is first started, after it warms up in a few minutes it becomes much harder to steer, especially at low speeds. I can see fluid bubbling and leaking out of the hex dipstick at the top of the housing, could it be the seals in the pedestal have failed causing excessive pressure at the top of the housing? I seem to remember this discussed somewhere on this forum, unfortunately I was unable to locate the thread. I ordered a power steering manual, its due to arrive in a few days. The tractor is relatively new to me, I purchased it about a year ago and am finally getting around to working on it.
 
I have a 1959 630 with some power steering issues. I had a significant leak coming from the top input shaft which was just repaired by replacing the O-ring and filled with Deere power steering fluid. The power steering works great when the tractor is first started, after it warms up in a few minutes it becomes much harder to steer, especially at low speeds. I can see fluid bubbling and leaking out of the hex dipstick at the top of the housing, could it be the seals in the pedestal have failed causing excessive pressure at the top of the housing? I seem to remember this discussed somewhere on this forum, unfortunately I was unable to locate the thread. I ordered a power steering manual, its due to arrive in a few days. The tractor is relatively new to me, I purchased it about a year ago and am finally getting around to working on it.
Since you've used the correct oil and (hopefully) not overfilled it there shouldn't be a buildup of pressure and/or foaming of the oil at the sintered bronze vent in the fill plug.

Air getting into the oil is one possibility and that would point to failed shaft seal(s) in the pump.
 
Thanks to you both, I assumed my issue was in the pedestal not the pump.
To me, the pump seals are the PRIME suspects, but sometimes STRANGE things can happen. BEST of luck and keep us updated as you go forward with this.
 
To me, the pump seals are the PRIME suspects, but sometimes STRANGE things can happen. BEST of luck and keep us updated as you go forward with this.
Are the pump seals you are referencing AF1925R? Item #26 and 13?
 

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Might be worth your time to do the leak test for the vane seals as explained in the book to see if there's any issues in the pedestal. Wouldn't be the first time there's 2 issues going on.
 
The original seals were WIDE with two outward- facing seal lips in one "case", the replacement seals are half as wide and you will need 2 for each location Install them with the lips and "garter springs" facing outward and put some grease in the areas between the lips.
 
Guess I never tried to get the pump out that way, afraid of hitting the rad. You are lucky the shaft came apart so easy.
It really wasn’t an issue, I didn’t have to slide the radiator forward as some and the manual have described.

I’ve cleaned up and painted a few parts, removing the fan and splitting the pump is next. Any pointers on fan removal or on how to split the pump? Unfortunately I don't have a press, might have to get creative on that or bring it in to work.
 

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It really wasn’t an issue, I didn’t have to slide the radiator forward as some and the manual have described.

I’ve cleaned up and painted a few parts, removing the fan is next. Fan removal and splitting the pump is next. Any pointers on fan removal or on how to split the pump?
Use a press, just did one . Don't push on shaft .
 
Like tom said, use a press. Those wedge halves can be a pain. I took a pipe and notched a good third of it away an inch high. I think it's only 3 inches long. Made this for working on a 4020 seat suspension and has worked for this. Make it just so it contacts the outer edge of the retaining collar for the wedges for clearance.
 
I've gotten the wedges out by using a 1" 1/2 drive deep socket and an air hammer. The 1" socket fits over the wedges but pushes down on the collar holding the wedges in place. The air hammer works great for rattling things loose. If you don't have an air hammer you can try a regular hammer. If you can get things to start moving the spring usually won't push anything back up at you because everything is rusted to the shaft.
 
I needed a press so I went ahead and bought a 20 ton from HF. Made a quick tool from a 2” section of 1.25” ID pipe. Fan removal was really easy using this method. Pictures below for anyone getting ready to tackle it themselves. Looking at the seal with the fan off I’m pretty sure it was time…
 

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