630 rhythmic growl

Using a pry bar and dial indicator, I can engage the clutch and move the clutch up .017". Since the clutch is engaged the crankshaft moves with it. Would that much main bearing movement create that much noise? Any inputs on how to proceed in replacing the main bushing, source, cost, precautions, machine shop to use?
 
Worn bushing in the clutch pulley is more likely the cause of the up and down movement. Change both the bearing and bushing while in there.
 
But with the clutch tightly engaged causing the clutch pulley to be tightly bound to the drive disk, wouldn't that eliminate all pulley movement resulting from pulley bushing or bearing wear? I'm not sure, I'm just trying to logically work my through to what I should do next.
 
But with the clutch tightly engaged causing the clutch pulley to be tightly bound to the drive disk, wouldn't that eliminate all pulley movement resulting from pulley bushing or bearing wear? I'm not sure, I'm just trying to logically work my through to what I should do next.
That should eliminate bushing/bearing wear,if the clutch driver is tight on the crank.
 
Thanks for the input. The driver is very tight, no spline damage at all. Do you know of any suppliers of good main bushings other than Deere.
 
Thanks for the input. The driver is very tight, no spline damage at all. Do you know of any suppliers of good main bushings other than Deere.
Take complete clutch off of crank and then try to move crank up and down! .017 is a lot of movement if it's in the main bearing! I'd check that before worrying about the clutch bushing! JM2C
 
I'll work on that. Of course that movement is basically at the outer end of the crank. So the actual movement at the bushing, which I'm guessing is 10-12 inches from the end of the crank would be proportionally less than .017. I'm just not sure that level of movement would cause the growl I'm hearing. I have a 60 and the clutch movement on it using the same procedure is .010". No growling in it. Thanks for the input.
 
Google search -JDS4240- and you will find a couple sources for your clutch bushing, if that is part of your problem. I have never changed one but looks like a fun job!!
 
Thanks. Got the clutch totally off, put the driver disk back on, covered the fork assy mtg hole, ran the tractor and the growling is still there. I hate to be dogmatic about anything on these old tractors but right now I'm convinced the source is somewhere in the 1st reduction housing. The only thing turning now is the output shaft gearing. Thinking maybe the idle gear bearing. I'm hoping it's that simple.
 
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