641 Gas 12V Regulator

[raycole]

I have a 641 (gas) that was converted by the previous owner to 12V. This was a 'stealth' conversion (12V generator, not an alternator).

Unfortunately at some point in time water had found its way into it, and it has a fair amount of corrosion. It has been working fine, but got to where it didn't want to charge reliably. I cleaned the contacts again tonight and got it working again. But really the corrosion in there is pretty bad and I'm certain the poor thing is going to give up soon.

I had bought a regulator a year ago for it (before figuring out a cleaning would get the old one to work), but it doesn't work. It was supposed to be a 12V regulator for a diesel 601. I opened the 'new' one up and it only has 2 relays inside of it, whereas the old one has 3 relays (both have bat/field/arm connections). I don't know if the 2 relay version is 'wrong' or not, but I'm thinking the 3-relay version is potentially better/more correct? But I'm not sure where to order one that has 3 relays. Any ideas? Or perhaps my 2 relay one should have been fine and is just broken or needs adjusting...I do know if I apply around 14V to ARM (regulator sitting on the bench with nothing else attached) that it pulls in the battery relay, but it doesn't seem to operate field properly from what I can tell. Anyway...would like to purchase a quality regulator to replace the aging one...realizing 'quality' is probably a relative term compared to the originals

 

[Anonymous-0]

just be sure it is made in USA

 

[souNdguy]

make sure you have the correct circuit regulator for your genny. The 01 diesel gennies were B circuit.. there should be a bias resistor on the underside from armature to field, and perhaps another one. Check your old working reg to see what it has... vs the new one.

wouldn't be the first time I saw a new regulator not work right out of the box..

soundguy

 

[raycole]

Both the old and new have the same resistors on the bottom (2 of them), and both measure the same resistance across ARM and FLD.

 

[souNdguy]

if that's the case, and the new one won't work, then leave it connected and full field it see if charge comes up.. if it does, field circuit is bad.

soundguy

 

[raycole]

Voltage at ARM goes up when I full field, but it never pulls the relay in to send power to BAT.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:31:46 01/21/10) Voltage at ARM goes up when I full field, but it never pulls the relay in to send power to BAT.

s it reaching 14 volts?

 

[souNdguy]

that means both field and cutout circuit are bad..

soundguy