706 Gas electrical problem

FusionFarmer

New User
I recently purchased what I believe to be an early model Farmall 706 Gas wide front, when I picked it up, it ran perfectly, everything was good, I saw and drove it myself, so I know for sure.

1.5hour trip home, and it picked up some electrical gremlins on the way. It will run decent when cold, but after about 10
Minutes or so, will develop a miss, and then start to surge and die. Wait 10 minutes, it will run a couple minutes and miss and surge and die, with some white/grey smoke coming out of the exhaust. This also never happened when I test drove it. When I test the battery, with the key off, I’m getting 12.5v, with the engine running at 1/4 throttle, I’m still getting 12.5v, I did notice a wire on the external resistor that is only hanging on by a strand or two, which may be my charging problem, but what about the surging/misfire problem?
 
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I recently purchased what I believe to be an early model Farmall 706 Gas wide front, when I picked it up, it ran perfectly, everything was good, I saw and drove it myself, so I know for sure.

1.5hour trip home, and it picked up some electrical gremlins on the way. It will run decent when cold, but after about 10
Minutes or so, will develop a miss, and then start to surge and die. Wait 10 minutes, it will run a couple minutes and miss and surge and die, with some white/grey smoke coming out of the exhaust. This also never happened when I test drove it. When I test the battery, with the key off, I’m getting 12.5v, with the engine running at 1/4 throttle, I’m still getting 12.5v, I did notice a wire on the external resistor that is only hanging on by a strand or two, which may be my charging problem, but what about the surging/misfire problem?
The running for a few minutes then stumbling to a stop sounds like a fuel issue. Use a can under the carburetor and remove the drain plug (bottom of carb) a rush of fuel should happen, then a steady stream to make a pint or more it 2 minutes. Do fix the wires to the resistor. The charging system may not be working at all. What alternator is on it. (image) Jim
 
I forgot to mention, the amp light is always on as well, it doesn’t seem to be carb related as I cleaned the screen in the sediment bowl,and had a good stream of fuel out of the fuel line at the carb. But I will try that as well.
 

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I forgot to mention, the amp light is always on as well, it doesn’t seem to be carb related as I cleaned the screen in the sediment bowl,and had a good stream of fuel out of the fuel line at the carb. But I will try that as well.
Fuel into the carb doesn't mean it is going into the carb. The float could be stuck closed or the needle seat full of rust/dirt not letting gas in. So have you checked the you have a good blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap?? As for the light being on that is a different system and thatwould not keep it from running unles the battery is way to low on a charge
 
Fuel into the carb doesn't mean it is going into the carb. The float could be stuck closed or the needle seat full of rust/dirt not letting gas in. So have you checked the you have a good blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap?? As for the light being on that is a different system and thatwould not keep it from running unles the battery is way to low on a charge
I have not checked the spark, or looked at the carb, just looked for loose connections and replaced the original batttery cables that had loosened up, it seems to me to be electrical related because it’s never the same amount of time before it dies, when it’s cold, it will run for 15 minutes, shut it off, start it back up, and then the miss and the surge starts, and then the longer I wait between it dieing and restartig, the farther I get before it dies again, but it has the worst issues when hot
 
I have not checked the spark, or looked at the carb, just looked for loose connections and replaced the original batttery cables that had loosened up, it seems to me to be electrical related because it’s never the same amount of time before it dies, when it’s cold, it will run for 15 minutes, shut it off, start it back up, and then the miss and the surge starts, and then the longer I wait between it dieing and restartig, the farther I get before it dies again, but it has the worst issues when hot
Now see your guessing at the problem instead of doing trouble shooting
#1 when it dies check that you have a good blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more.
#2 check that you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes out the carb drain plug.
#3 you might also check the air cleaner and make sure it isn't clogged up
 
Now see your guessing at the problem instead of doing trouble shooting
#1 when it dies check that you have a good blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more.
#2 check that you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes out the carb drain plug.
#3 you might also check the air cleaner and make sure it isn't clogged up
Where should I be checking the spark off off, the main wire coming from the coil to the distributor, or one of the spark plug boots?
 
You start with the center wire of the distributor cap and then EVERY spark plug. I use a plug that I have gapped to a 1/4 inch
thanks, I will try that. Does it have to be when its missing, or just when running in general?

I checked the fuel from the bottom bolt of the carb, in 2 minutes it was about 1/3 of a pint. so definitly low. It may have some bearing on only having around 1/4 of a tank of fuel in, vs the pressure of a full tank, but thats just a guess. either way, it was alittle gummy in the bottom so a cleaning is needed for sure. im wondering if there might be a piece of rust stuck in the stem of the Petcock of the fuel tank that is limiting flow.
 
thanks, I will try that. Does it have to be when its missing, or just when running in general?

I checked the fuel from the bottom bolt of the carb, in 2 minutes it was about 1/3 of a pint. so definitly low. It may have some bearing on only having around 1/4 of a tank of fuel in, vs the pressure of a full tank, but thats just a guess. either way, it was alittle gummy in the bottom so a cleaning is needed for sure. im wondering if there might be a piece of rust stuck in the stem of the Petcock of the fuel tank that is limiting flow.
Definitely clean the fuel tank and fuel sediment bulb and then try it again and go from there.
 
The fitting where the gas line connects to the carburetor has a screen, remove and clean it.. The coil resistor may also be an issue. To bypass it, you can run a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the coil positive post and try. Won't hurt anything to run it like that for a while, it just won't shut off with the key. Another thing to try ,is when it begins to miss, try choking it and if it does help you have a fuel issue.
 
The fitting where the gas line connects to the carburetor has a screen, remove and clean it.. The coil resistor may also be an issue. To bypass it, you can run a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the coil positive post and try. Won't hurt anything to run it like that for a while, it just won't shut off with the key. Another thing to try ,is when it begins to miss, try choking it and if it does help you have a fuel issue.
Perfect, I’ll try that when I get off work, luckily planting season is done until middle of August, so I have some time to get it all squared away.
 
So far, I’ve fixed the fuel blockage in the petcock, and got good flow to the carb, and my charging problem was the VRs ground cable, it’s now charging around 13.5-14.5
It still has a miss, I’m thinking I’m going to clean the carb next and see what that does for it, the choke makes it worse
I still have to clean the carb
 
I also tested it with a 1/4” gapped spark plug, and have a very weak orange spark
Weak spark like that can be a number of things. Points being dirty, or bad condenser. I don't remember if you said you replaced the condenser but if you did put the old one back in. Or another thing that can cause weak spark is a starter that is going bad and pulling to many amps from the battery and takes power from the ignition system or a weak battery
 
I also tested it with a 1/4” gapped spark plug, and have a very weak orange spark
I put a new ground on the VR, and now it just welds the contact as soon as it gets power, bad Vr?
I also tested it with a 1/4” gapped spark plug, and have a very weak orange spark

Weak spark like that can be a number of things. Points being dirty, or bad condenser. I don't remember if you said you replaced the condenser but if you did put the old one back in. Or another thing that can cause weak spark is a starter that is going bad and pulling to many amps from the battery and takes power from the ignition system or a weak battery
I havnt put a new condenser on it yet, just got the fuel flowing more, and figured out that the ground on the VR was bad, but now that I supply ground to it, it just welds the contacts, which I had cleaned, the points by the condenser all looked clean and good
 
I put a new ground on the VR, and now it just welds the contact as soon as it gets power, bad Vr?



I havnt put a new condenser on it yet, just got the fuel flowing more, and figured out that the ground on the VR was bad, but now that I supply ground to it, it just welds the contacts, which I had cleaned, the points by the condenser all looked clean and good
Try this then since you are having V.R. problems. Run a hot wire from the ignition side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil. Try to start it. If it starts and runs good then you have a problem in the wiring and the charging system may be shorting out taking power away from the ignition system
 

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