730 clutch problems

[Anonymous-0]

I am having problems with the clutch on my 730 diesel. I can’t seem to get it to lock over with a good snap. If I go in and tighten the bolts up it just locks up solid. I put new disks in it and have torn it apart several times and still can’t figure it out. Inside every thing appears to be the correct parts. I don’t know what parts to replace first. I could put dogs and toggles in but I don’t know if they are bad or not. Everyone knows that Deere gives that stuff away. Just checking if any has had a problem like this or if I have a rare jem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Amcl

 

[Jared K]

My first question would be; How much are you tightening up the castle nuts? It doesn't take much to get it adjusted out. A notch or two is usually enough once they have been adjusted and kinks worked out with placing in new discs.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I start to tighten them and keep working the clutch back and forth to try to get it to snap but I cant seem to get it. If I leave them loose it does nothing and when you tighten them down ever thing locks

 

[msb]

Sounds like one or two nuts are ahead of the other and are tightened uneven.Try starting over.

 

[Carl NY]

Amci- I have to ask. Is the clutch lever in the forward position when you are thightening the 3 adjusting bolts? With the clutch disengaged, loosen the 3 nuts. Move the clutch lever forward to engage the clutch. Thighten the 3 nuts evenly with moderate torque. If it still locks up there is linkage inside the pulley that is messed up.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Its not that becasue I have been on and off several times and I made sure the the nuts were going on evenly. I dont know if the holes where the toggles go in to the slider could be worn that much that it doesnt let it over center.

 

[Anonymous-0]

When adjusting the nuts I have tried it both ways with the clutch engaged and also disengaged. Where does a guy start when going through the linkages? I hate buying expensive parts that I dont need. I have no way to compair my parts with new either.

 

[4020]

I was having similiar problems with the clutch on my 730 diesal. What we did to fix it was remove the cover on top of the first reduction gear cover that is over the top of the clutch. This opening will let you have access to a bolt that is made to stop the clutch fork from going to far. Our problem was that the clutch fork was not going in enough to "snap in".

 

[Jared K]

I'm going to guess that with replacing the discs, you have pulled out the drive disc; the one with the gear attached. I dont remember exactly how much you can see back there behind that. When I took the one on my 730 LP apart, everything in the first reduction gear cover and all the parts inside the belt pulley were completely filled with dirt and grease. This could possibly be part of your problem as the fork and other mechanisms cannot move their full range of motion. If I remember correctly. Just take all the bolts lose around the belt pulley approximately 8-12 and slide the pulley off being careful not to pull too hard break anything. You may have to unpin and take the pulley brake off to get the belt pulley off. I don't have my manuals or the tractor close to me to check to make sure as they are at my parents house. If you have a service or operators manual, it should have a good picture to get an idea of what you will be looking at when you get it apart. But it is fairly simple to look at and understand how it works.

Jared K

 

[buickanddeere]

If you are going to gripe about price for factory fresh parts the day after you ordered them from JD.
Head on down to your local GMC, Ford, Chrysler, Agco, New Holland, CIH etc. And ask for clutch parts for a 1958 vintage machine. You will be laughed out of the building and leave empty handed.
If you want to complain b*tch about the tractor, go to your women and her friends. If you want to repair your tractor ask, don't moan here.
It would appear your are working via by guess and by golly without the JD parts and service manuals?

 

[Mike M]

If you go to our local New Holland dealer and ask for all the parts they keep for tractors from 1940 up to 1958 you are going to have alot of money to spend !! They keep alot of parts for 8N 800 series and TO30 and MF35 tractors !!!!

 

[4020LP]

Let me guess. You don't have a parts book or a service manual, or even an operator's manual, and are working on the "by guess and by golly" method, right? Although they appear to be simple, two-cylinder clutches, especially the later models, are more complex than they appear, and take more finesse in adjustment, as every part of the clutch, including the pulley brake, has to be adjusted correctly, for the clutch to work as it should.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Takes patience, understanding and trial and error to set these. If the flywheel is on right and the parts are not new but still servicable, try this:

-loosen all three nuts

-engage clutch & hold forward with a tarp strap.

-put the tansmission in neutral.

-tighten all three nuts evenly (fingers only) occasionally rolling the pulley looking for drag. As the clutch starts to drag, get real picky about getting them all even constantly watching as you roll the pulley. Eventually even with just finger tight you'll get it too tight to roll by hand unless your nuts & bolts are binding.

-disengage the clutch. Maybe you have some snap maybe not but likely a little. Leave it disengaged.

- tighten all three one flat & try it

- tighten all three one flat & try it

- tighten all three one flat & try it

Eventually you'll find a spot you like.

-Install the cotter pins but don't bend 'em! Instead, grab each nut & rotate the nut and bolt AS A SINGLE UNIT back and forth watching and feeling for a point where it "pops out" towards you a bit. Sometimes you can't see it but can only feel it. What you're doing is "seating" the hardened TEE head of the clutch bolt into the worn spot in the softer clutch dog forks. Your good snap is now likely gone!

-Tighten 'em all one flat, RE-SEAT 'em & try it.

-Tighten 'em all one flat, RE-SEAT 'em & try it.

When you're real close to the way you want it, one flat on all three may be too much. The very last few steps or changes may be only one or two nuts one flat at a time. Key point is to RE-SEAT the bolts into the forks before checking snap if using old worn but still servicable dogs.

Post back and good luck.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Actually I DO have the parts book, IT manual and operators manual thank you very much and I have followed them to a tee

 

[BLinWMI]

Why does every jerk who evidently knows all there is to know about these tractors have to answer like this. First off we have 2 guys that give all sorts of attitude because they are just sure the tractor owner doesn't have the associated manuals, which in fact he does, but as many of us who aren't gods know, certain tractors can have clutches that are difficult to get adjusted perfectly. Just like certain tractors have carbs that are finnicky, it is part of the tractors character. I have a 70, and all the manuals yet I guess I am a simpleton cuz I had some trouble with my clutch once too.
Second, the guy did not bellyache about the price of parts from Deere, he just said he doesn't want to spend money on parts he doesn't need to fix the problems he is encountering. And by the way, prices for parts from Deere for alot of these older tractors are stupid, if you think otherwise price a manifold for a 60 from Deere. It is insane, there is no reason they should charge 3 or 4 times what a similiar quality aftermarket part costs. Anyone one with half an ounce of business sense would figure if they could sell it for a cost similiar to the aftermarket part their business would be booming. Who wouldn't buy OEM parts if their prices were closer to reasonable. Deeres factories would be busier, there would be twice as many dealers around and we all would be better off. But I guess some of us tractor drivers just aren't as bright as ya'll.

 

[4020LP]

Glad to hear it. You'd be amazed at the number of people who do not, and don't think these books are necessary.

 

[buickanddeere]

Do you want your kid working in the factory where the bargain manifolds are made/ Or at JD's foundry casting manifolds?
Have you examined the casting quality, material thickness, metal alloy or finished machining between the bargain and the JD manifold?
You can't have it both ways.
As for the p*ssing and moaning. What exactly is this? "Everyone knows that Deere gives that stuff away," "I hate buying expensive parts that I don't need", "I have no way to compare my parts with new either"," IT manual", "
That 3 for crying about the cost of keeping a 50 year old and, high hour and possibly abused machine operating.
The bargain IT manual is only good for wrapping parts in so the vice jaws don't marr the finish. The parts manual images are usually a good example of fresh vs. worn parts.

 

[Anonymous-0]

THANK YOU
Some one who read what I said and not more. I did not intend to get everyone all rilled up. I posted this to find out some information possibly something I overlooked. I greatly appreciate those of you that took time to try and help me through this problem. I am not one of those gods that know everything if I was I wouldnt have this problem. Most people do this as a hobby atleast I do. When I do something for fun I dont want my head riped off for someone reading into what I said, thats not fun. I just want to get my tractor working and possibly be able to use it a little before it freezes up. Thanks again for the information that some of you have given me. I guess I will have to go buy the OVER PRICED PARTS FROM DEERE (P*ss and moan Youre correct when saying guess some of us tractor drivers just aren't as bright as ya'll.
Thanks again
Amcl

 

[Anonymous-0]

hey bud I just wanted information on the clutch AND NOT TO BE RIPPED A NEW ONE
thanks
as

 

[BLinWMI]

Sorry I can not help you much with advice on your clutch, I have a 720 but have not had to get into the clutch. Like I said, I did have some issues with my 70 but I managed to get it corrected. I hope you are able to get it figured out without a large parts expense, and get out there playing with it again. Good luck.

 

[buickanddeere]

Would you want your kid working in the factory where Deere has the manifolds made? Or working in the factory where the bargain manifolds are manufactured?
Have you measured the fit, finish, casting quality, wall thickness, metallurgy of the bargain manifolds?
You can't have it both ways.
If you are going to carp twice about factory support of 53+ year old equipment. Then tell us you are using the near useless IT manual.
Get a hobby collecting pop bottles or something instead of tractors.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 01:19:02 11/16/07) Would you want your kid working in the factory where Deere has the manifolds made? Or working in the factory where the bargain manifolds are manufactured?
Have you measured the fit, finish, casting quality, wall thickness, metallurgy of the bargain manifolds?
You can't have it both ways.
If you are going to carp twice about factory support of 53+ year old equipment. Then tell us you are using the near useless IT manual.
Get a hobby collecting pop bottles or something instead of tractors.

uickanddeere Have you personnally done "ALL THESE MEASUREMENTS YOU RAVE ABOUT" on comparing JD's socalled OEM manifolds vs aftermarket manifolds ????????????? Do you actually know if OEM 2 cyl manifolds are made in JD's own foundry? Did you know that the IT manual was not the most informative when you first started repairing JD's? Everybody's education had to start somewhere so why not ease up on the man seeking information !!! Tx Jim

 

[buickanddeere]

TxJim

I was directing most of the comments to BLinWMI and others who want premium service on bargain rates. Again you can't have it both ways.
People line up to pay for the cheapo Chinese goods then turn around and moan about the loss of American industry/jobs.
I suppose BLinWMI and Amcl can set up a foundry and a machine shop so they don't have to pay the big green bucks to Deere.
Amcl whined about price twice before I took him up on it.

 

[Tx Jim]

buickanddeere do you know if the 2 cylinder manifolds that JD sells to its dealers are made in a JD foundry???? Or are they outsourced? I think JD has one of the best parts support for older equipment but in some instances not the best part. If one thinks JD parts are too $$$$ then they need to buy some parts for a Kubota or Ford!! Thanks,Tx Jim