8000 major problems

[JM in Merit]

Was baling hay today, left tractor in neutral and got off for a couple minutes, started to climb up steps and tractor died. That was odd as tractor been running real good and never dies at idle, got in started back up just fine, let foot out on clutch and died again.
Checked the shifter everything shifting ok, could apply the parking break if in neutral.Tried all gears the only one that it would run in, but lug down allot and had to have rev engine up was 8th gear ( High low range still in neutral)
Couple of us looked at it, could not figure anything out called Ford dealership. talk to a guy that said it was my Dual Dower clutches. My normal range has never seen to work since I got tractor in april I just ran it in power range.
the only thing that may have gave me a warning is about 2 04 3 minutes before this happen I heard a squel and that it was baler as I had hit a green wad of grass and thought it was baler as it seemed to stop as soon as I turn pto off, but did nto hear noise any more when I turn pto back on, then about 2 or 3 mintues later the tractor dies.
Question do you think it is the dual power. I know it invloves a split, how hard is it for a couple guys to do on your own, guy helping me is pretty good farm mechanic, I am not that good.
I am assuming also that front end loader and cab will have to be taken off as well. Do you think if is the dual power is the clutches all it will be or if I get on there will there be allot of other things that could be wrong.
Little short on funds at this point and was told that the cluthces alone would run around 1000 for both ranges. so looking at all possiblities before doing the split. If my friend and myself try to do it ourselves about how many hours would you think it would take to do.
any other ideas what it could be or suggestions would be grealy appreciated
lucky I had another tractor that I hooked up to baler and was able to get back to baling
sorry for the long post and all the questions

 

[RodinNS]

If you've got locomotion on one side of teh DP and not the other, then there's a problem with the DP. That simple. The first question is why did it fail. The second question is what reward has it given you for it's continued use in this state?
What may have been sealing rings may now be clutches and some very major parts in the planetary depending on how much force it got when it locked itself together.... Also, if this was brought on by an internal leak, it may have taken the PTO clutch with it.
My first step would be to plumb a gauge to the PTO/DP control circuit and find out what pressure it's making in high/low and PTO engaged and disengaged in both high/low on the DP, or if you have any pressure at all. I think it'll probably be in the 150-180 psi range, but somebody more familia with that model may chime in with the correct numbers.
If you find that there's no pressure when you "T" into the line, then you'll have to isolate the PTO by disconnecting the DP line altogether. see if the PTO has it's correct pressure. If ti doesn't then you're looking at a possible PTO rebuild or a pump/regulating valve problem.

I've never had a DP in pieces so I can't begin to tell you how long it would take. I'd probably plan on a day if not two. Loader makes a lot of extra work. You can probably split it OK with the cab in place. I've been told that the DP itself is not exactly easy to reassemble either.
Thousand bucks for parts is rather optomistic in my opinion as well. A thousand bucks is a pretty small box of parts these days...
You might be just as far ahead to look for another piece of big cheap stupid power as fix this one. Those are 4 grand tractors 'here'.
DP/PTO/Pump replacement can run some money even if you do it yourself.
The best money you'll spend right now is an OEM service manual.

Rod

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

Will need to be split between engine and tranny.Dual power clutches,fiber plates and steels need to be replaced.To check steels,lay them on a flat surface such as a table.If they are cupped or not laying flat on the table replace them.They will usally have burnt look to them if warped due to heat.Replace fibers regardless of appearance.You will need a fixture to compress the piston spring and remove the snap-ring that holds it in place.Replace all sealing rings and rubber o-rings inside the clutchpack.The oilseals and housing gasket also.Clean everything good.I think you can split it with the cab in place if you secure the front of the cab good. The front cab mounts will be removed.Don't cut corners,replace everything in the unit.The one part you don't replace can ruin all the new parts in it if its not right.So just put all of them new to start with.The unit is simple if you understand how it works.DON'T EVEN ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR WITHOUT A SERVICE MANUAL.Read it and study the diagrams and pictures before you start.Change all hydraulic oil and filters before you restart the tractor.Residue from the worn and burnt clutchpack will be present in the old oil.I have rebuilt and repaired many dual power and pto clutchpacks in these tractors and i have found that everything i've described needs to be done if,you want dependable trouble free service after this repair.As Rod said,Get the manual and do the pressure checks before you do anything else.The manual will show where to connect the guage and how to perform these steps.Then after you do the rebuild perform the checks again.If the pressure is not right the clutchpack will not hold up.And the new parts will be destroyed.So double check yourself after your repair.Remember if your pressure is low you most likely have an internal leak.You will have to break it into again and go back into the pack to repair it.See why you need to replace all the rings and seals now? Spend the extra money for all the parts now.If you have to go back it'll cost twice as much.I understand that sometimes money is tight and its expensive to do these repairs but,getting it right is important on this repair.I'm not implying that you won't do what it takes to fix it right,in fact i'm sure you will.I'm just giving advice from experience i've gained over the years working on these tractors.And this is one repair that i've seen too many shortcuts taken on over the years.Many the time i wound up with one of these jobs in my shop because of those shortcuts.I "cut my teeth" you might say on these old 8000 Fords.They were the first tractors Ford built over 100 hp. and i happend to be working at a Ford dealer back then.They had a lot of problems to start with but,after all the updates and modifications turn out to be tough reliable tractors.I don't get to work on many of them anymore but,i like to help if i can.Good luck on your repair.

 

[fortracfan]

Had same issue with my TW30 which while being slightly bigger is pretty similar. It was as expected the Dual power clutch pack. When tractor split dual power mechanism housing was smashed in pieces. Bought a second hand one from breakers as much the easiest and cheapest solution. All told it took a good 4 days hard labour to repair.