ford 3000 3cyl issues

[kenbob]

My cousin asked me to help a church member of his to get her grandpa's tractors running. The first one we tackled was a ford 3000 3cyl. I have the 2000 version so am pretty familiar with it. THe tractor had plenty of issues. The only test equipment we had was an inline spark plug light and a 12v test light. All we kno about the tractor was that her son had replaced the ignition switch but he could not get it to do anything. We were able to get it to turn over when both tranny and hi low levers were in neutral. That was easy, until we shut off the tractor and the starter kept turning it over until we unhooked the battery. We looked at the switch in the field but it was hard to see. Don't know if it was miswired or if the switch is shorted. Can the kill switch short out? we disconnected wires to the switch and off course it would not turn over. We forgot to jump the 2 wires going to the kill switch.

But when it was turning over it would not start. We used the test light and there is voltage to both sides of the coil with the switch in the on position. WHen we turn it over we got no spark at the plugs, and no spark coming out of the primary coil wire. So I am guessing the coil is shot. Or am I missing something. ;ELectronics is not my strong suit.

All comments are welcome. Thanks all.

 

[kenbob]

Am I right to think the start wire going to the switch is on the on post?

 

[sweetskillsrk]

Check out this thread. I asked some similar questions after I did some rewiring and turns out I swapped terminals on the starter solenoid by accident. Sounds like an electrical issue to me. I'm guessing the previous owner wired it back up incorrectly. That's where I would start anyway. Once you confirm the starter solenoid and ignition switch are wired properly, then continue down the troubleshooting path, but don't just go replacing parts thinking they're bad quite yet.

Post in thread 'Alternator Conversion Issues'

Jun 10, 2024

The alternator came with the tech drive and the extra wire for the light and it does work. I need to make sure the alternator charges properly once I can fire her up, but other than that I'm all set. I've got some 4 gauge wire, any advantage to replacing the smaller factory wiring with a larger cable going from the alternator to the battery?

4 ga is bigger than normal. I used 10 ga on mine. The Alt could put out 63 amps at max. I just don't envision it ever being maxed out.
YMMV

• Keith Williams

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[Jim.ME]

The ignition switch was replaced, that is a likely starting point for problems. You need to confirm what wires go to what and which post of the ignition switch they are connected to.

If the points are open, you will have power on both sides of the coil primary terminals. If the points are closed, you should not show power on the distributor side primary terminal of the coil, the points provide a path to ground.

Put the tip of your test light on the distributor side primary terminal of the coil (lead hooked to a good ground of course). If things are correct the light should flash on and off as the points open and close when the engine is being cranked over. Power but no flash means check out the points and condenser.

A low battery has been known to allow solenoids and starters to hang in.

What are you calling the kill switch? I believe the ignition should be controlled by the ignition switch, not a kill switch.

Do you have the manual and wiring diagrams for your 2000? The 2000 wiring diagrams might help you chase the 3000 wiring out.

 

[kenbob]

I didn't use the term kill switch I don't think. It was hot and late when we quit working so I may have mis remembered somethings, but I am pretty sure once we had the starter engaged and turned off the key, the only way to get it to stop was to pull the battery cable.

 

[Jim.ME]

I didn't use the term kill switch I don't think. It was hot and late when we quit working so I may have mis remembered somethings, but I am pretty sure once we had the starter engaged and turned off the key, the only way to get it to stop was to pull the battery cable.

From your first post of this thread: "We forgot to jump the 2 wires going to the kill switch."

 

[kenbob]

Ah, the safety switch going to the transmission...prevent starting, not killing....my bad. My brain was pretty fried last night after working a couple hours in 98 degree heat. Head is clearer now. I know I can test power into the switch easy enough with a test light. From another post I see that the switch is numbered and 1 is power inbound. We need to start there and work our way around the switch.