801 diesel standpipe

841D TX

Member
Hi folks,
I know it's been discussed numerous times. My 801 diesel has the standpipe missing from the fitting on front and bottom of fuel tank, and is leaking all the contents of the tank thru the return line to the head. First, does anyone have one that is good and usable for sale. If not, does anyone have good methods of replacing the standpipe tube. What size is it and how long, and what material is it? Please describe your method of replacing the tube in the tank fitting. Appreciate your help a lot.
 
you could probably braze in a piece of brake line or copper tubing.. or plug and convert to a top return line. Either would take a bit of hand work and , at least the first option, tank removal.
 
Considering a new one from messicks is $22.56 or $27.53 depending on which engine you have I would just order a new one. ( CONN-9A331D is a 172 & E is a 144)
 
(quoted from post at 15:45:58 10/28/15) Considering a new one from messicks is $22.56 or $27.53 depending on which engine you have I would just order a new one. ( CONN-9A331D is a 172 & E is a 144)
When I saw this post about Messick's having diesel fuel return standpipes I tried to order one. My order went thru and I got a order number and everything. Then I got a email from Messick's stating they are not available and they have not been able to find them at CHN.
I am with Soundguy in that someone might be able to make one. However I have never seen one. Mine is in the tractor and I am afraid if it is removed, it might leak worse than it does now. Some time ago I was looking thru the archives regarding standpipes and saw a picture (believe 2) but could not determine exactly how they looked in regards to making one. So, if someone could post several pictures of one from all angles, it might make a good many folks happy. :D
 

This is a thread from my experience.

Scott

[/url]http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1099264&highlight=
 
Looking in the parts book it's just a fitting with a straight tube on top. Mine is straight with the junction block on the side of the head instead of like the pic. I would drain the tank, pull the fitting and buy a new one just like it at the hardware store. Measure from the fitting to the top of the tank to get the pipe length and make it half an inch shorter. That and the threads should put the top of the pipe 3/4 in below the tank top. Double check the length when the pipe is attached to the fitting. If the fitting is brass silver solder a copper tube inside the top. If it's steel braze a steel brake line tube in there.

Ford%20Standpipe.jpg" width= "650"
 
exactly.

It's a 2 part job.. one line goes tot he top, the other sees tank pressure.

can be done, but takes some hand work to get it.
 
Yes, I read the post but I respectfully disagree with the author. As I said my 851 has the T junction block screwed in to the head. Only one line leaves it and go's to the tank standpipe. The other one go's to the pump. I have no idea whether it's original or not but it's really not relevant.

Stanadine Roosamaster pumps have a check ball in the return fitting. If the pump flex ring starts to dissentigrate it clogs and the check ball restricts fuel flow enough to shut it down. The glass check ball gets broke out to finish chores. The assembly is supposed to be replaced when the pump is rebuilt. That's what we did back when I was working on them but lots of folks don't.

Question is ( IF Stanadyne wanted tank pressure as the author believes WHY did they put in a check ball to stop it? ).

Of course I could be wrong but that's just my opinion and my reasoning why I would fix it the way I posted. Others can fix theirs any way they want.
 

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