801 injector cam ring direction

[trentr]

I have a ford 801 diesel, 841d?, IDK anyway the roosamaster pump has cc in the model number so counter clockwise. When installing the cam ring, you are supposed to place the arrow indicating pump rotation "facing up". My question being is "up" as the pump sits on the tractor or "facing up" while the pump is upside down for reassembly? Cc arrow towards pump head or drive end? This pump was rebuilt and then sat for years until it got sticky inside. I pulled it apart as it was not pumping fuel. The fuel delivery plungers were stuck. I freed them up and as I reassembled the cc arrow was toward pump head. I assumed up meant as pump was sitting for reassembly so I flipped it over thinking it was incorrectly reassembled. It still pumps no fuel. So which direction does cam ring go? Are the plungers maybe free by finger push but not actually free "rattling" and therefore still inoperable with transfer pump pressure? And then I am unsure which side the advance piston with holes goes in. I know. I know. It is my first injector pump and I made nube mistakes. Live and learn.

 

[trentr]

More info. Acquired tractor with rebuilt pump not installed. I have never had it running. Return line clear. Air bled out of filter housing. Pull tractor until i get occasional drips from all lines at the loose injector nuts but never more than an occasional drip. Metering valve free moving. Transfer pump vanes new. Governor has been updated from plastic ring to all metal assembly. Not by me. As far as I know it was rebuilt by an individual not a shop. We are poor diy folks around here. With the occasional help from awesome folks on forums. Thanks in advance

 

[used red MN]

Hold up foot, shoot self in foot! Maybe this will help, he wasn’t on here today. @Dieseltech
I am no expert, not even sure if this literature applies to you pump.
Pump manual PDF page 34, figure 4.25

 

[Dieseltech]

Hold up foot, shoot self in foot! Maybe this will help, he wasn’t on here today. @Dieseltech
I am no expert, not even sure if this literature applies to you pump.
Pump manual PDF page 34, figure 4.25

The DB4 is a much heavier duty version than the DB pump he has. With the hydraulic head setting on the bench with rotor drive end UP the cam ring should be installed with the arrow pointing left, CCW. The DB4 PDF is a genset pump with lots of changes that no tractor/AG pump uses for the governor control.

 

[trentr]

The DB4 is a much heavier duty version than the DB pump he has. With the hydraulic head setting on the bench with rotor drive end UP the cam ring should be installed with the arrow pointing left, CCW. The DB4 PDF is a genset pump with lots of changes that no tractor/AG pump uses for the governor control.

That is how I have it now. I finally was able to look and see some wear on the cam ring lobes which gave me a pretty good idea. I have the pump reinstalled, hope to give it a pull tonight. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[trentr]

Well I have fuel shot out of 3 injector lines now. Not sure what is up with the 4th yet. Got some smoke out the exhaust but no fire yet. Fuel seems to be leaking between pump housing and hydraulic head now and I lined my pump timing marks and the flywheel was on about 12 degrees. So it looks like I need to go through my timing procedure again as well as figure out my leak. It looks as if there is a seal for the hydraulic head in the schematic but I do not recall it being there when I had the pump apart....4 or 5 times. Is it an oring or a paper type seal? Getting closer.

 

[Dieseltech]

Well I have fuel shot out of 3 injector lines now. Not sure what is up with the 4th yet. Got some smoke out the exhaust but no fire yet. Fuel seems to be leaking between pump housing and hydraulic head now and I lined my pump timing marks and the flywheel was on about 12 degrees. So it looks like I need to go through my timing procedure again as well as figure out my leak. It looks as if there is a seal for the hydraulic head in the schematic but I do not recall it being there when I had the pump apart....4 or 5 times. Is it an oring or a paper type seal? Getting closer.

I would have had it repaired, calibrated and working a long time ago...

 

[trentr]

I would have had it repaired, calibrated and working a long time ago...

This project is a low priority and I get a couple hours here and there between a busy life of a full time job as a machinist, small engine repair and auto repair on the side , as well as keeping 3 teenage boys in line. First injector pump so learning as I go. I'm trying.

 

[trentr]

Well the 801 runs pretty well. 841. I think. Diesel. Anyway it starts when pulled. But off the starter it will only start if hooked 24v AND a snort of starting fluid. When pull starting in 4th it slides the tires for a bit before turning engine over. So I assume pretty good compression. Run it until operating temp. Shut off. Still will not start back unless pulled/24v starting fluid. Will start in 3rd low rpm. Shift to 4th and pick up speed. No snoke idling minimal smoke in 4th pulling down the road. Could it be dirty injectors? I am stumped.

 

[Dieseltech]

Well the 801 runs pretty well. 841. I think. Diesel. Anyway it starts when pulled. But off the starter it will only start if hooked 24v AND a snort of starting fluid. When pull starting in 4th it slides the tires for a bit before turning engine over. So I assume pretty good compression. Run it until operating temp. Shut off. Still will not start back unless pulled/24v starting fluid. Will start in 3rd low rpm. Shift to 4th and pick up speed. No snoke idling minimal smoke in 4th pulling down the road. Could it be dirty injectors? I am stumped.

Hard starting when hot is a sure sign the injection pump hydraulic head is bad and needs replaced.

 

[trentr]

Hard starting when hot is a sure sign the injection pump hydraulic head is bad and needs replaced.

It starts the same wether is has sat 2weeks or 2 minutes so I was bot sure if it would be considered a "hot start" issue. The hydraulic head was "rebuilt" when I got it but I have been in there and it appears they just replaced the governor ring with a solid one and that is about it. I think since I know the tractor will run and operate now, I will spend the money and have the pump professionally gone through. Thanks all for the input

 

[Dieseltech]

It starts the same wether is has sat 2weeks or 2 minutes so I was bot sure if it would be considered a "hot start" issue. The hydraulic head was "rebuilt" when I got it but I have been in there and it appears they just replaced the governor ring with a solid one and that is about it. I think since I know the tractor will run and operate now, I will spend the money and have the pump professionally gone through. Thanks all for the input

Changing the weight cage does NOT rebuild the hydraulic head...

 

[trentr]

801 has sat since I was last on here. Hooked up 12v crank a few times....no go. Hook up 24v and fired right off no ether. I am thinking of trying a new starter. I cleaned all connections and pulled starter apart and lubed it up. Helped cranking speed some but maybe still just a bit slow. When cranking there is no smoke 12v or 24v. Seems like it should smoke some if it was just slow cranking...IDk. Cannot be much. So close.

 

[Dieseltech]

801 has sat since I was last on here. Hooked up 12v crank a few times....no go. Hook up 24v and fired right off no ether. I am thinking of trying a new starter. I cleaned all connections and pulled starter apart and lubed it up. Helped cranking speed some but maybe still just a bit slow. When cranking there is no smoke 12v or 24v. Seems like it should smoke some if it was just slow cranking...IDk. Cannot be much. So close.

The pump hydraulic head is probably shot.