8N Distributor Shorting Out

[norbertram]

First Post: I have an 8N with a front mount distributor. After replacing the coil, points, and condenser I still did not have spark. Upon testing I can see that the brass screw is grounding out intermittently. Another post from "Bruce (VA)" suggests the following: "If you need to replace the insulator, use a
.250 x 3/8 nylon square nylon anchor nut available at most big box home stores." My question is How do you do this? Do I drill our the old threads and place the new nut behind the original?
While I am at it - I have a second question. The ballast resister is mentioned regularly in the 8N posts. Does this only refer to the ceramic block resisters or does it also include the cylinder shaped resister in the terminal block? IE I have a 12 volt system but there were three resisters in series before the voltage got to the coil (2 ceramic and one in the terminal block). I assume that this was because I previously had a 6 volt coil on there? All three show a drop in voltage so they are working. Can I remove both ceramic resisters and just use the cylindrical resister to supply voltage to my new 12 volt coil?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Janicholson]

Welcome to TY. I have found small plastic/fiber washers that fit the stud and the hole in the side, centering the stud in the hole. then use a different fiber washer that holds the smaller one where it belongs. A good hardware store will have them. Nylon or fiber will work. Jim

 

[wore out]

First Post: I have an 8N with a front mount distributor. After replacing the coil, points, and condenser I still did not have spark. Upon testing I can see that the brass screw is grounding out intermittently. Another post from "Bruce (VA)" suggests the following: "If you need to replace the insulator, use a
.250 x 3/8 nylon square nylon anchor nut available at most big box home stores." My question is How do you do this? Do I drill our the old threads and place the new nut behind the original?
While I am at it - I have a second question. The ballast resister is mentioned regularly in the 8N posts. Does this only refer to the ceramic block resisters or does it also include the cylinder shaped resister in the terminal block? IE I have a 12 volt system but there were three resisters in series before the voltage got to the coil (2 ceramic and one in the terminal block). I assume that this was because I previously had a 6 volt coil on there? All three show a drop in voltage so they are working. Can I remove both ceramic resisters and just use the cylindrical resister to supply voltage to my new 12 volt coil?

Thanks in advance!

To add to what Jim said, the aftermarket "12 Volt" coils being sold today typically
need to OEM ballast resistor left in place.

If you have the means to measure DC Amps, with a full-charged battery and the points closed, measure the primary current.

If in the 3-4 Amps range the primary resistance is reasonably correct.

If current is over that by much the coil will run HOT and breaker point life will be shortened as well.

If it's in the lower end of the range , or less the spark will be "weak".


In regard to your insulator problem, you might find a good used breaker plate, or take a chance on the fitment of a new one, (likely from The Land of Almost Right).

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-2N_Distributor-Breaker-Plate_9N12150.html

If you repair yours, it must be done so the flexible copper strip and the condenser lead are held tight, making good electrical contact while being insulated from the steel "tab" the insulator fits in. (But you already knew that, LOL!

 

[norbertram]

Thank you both! I drilled out the previous threads and found the square hole through the tab. I also sanded down a nylon nut to fit that hole so with a nylon washer on the other side I should be good. As for the amperage going to the coil I should be able to check that with my son's tester. Thanks!!