8N electronic conversion

David-49-8N

New User
I have replaced my points and condensor on my 1949 8N front mount distributor with the electronic ignition conversion kit 1247 from yesterdays tractor. Wired and was running then started cutting off when running and hot. Found a faulty resistor and replaced. Still no spark. Does anyone know how to check the electronic ignition other then no spark at the plug? I have power to the coil and have checked the coil, it checks ok. Still no spark.
 
IRC, the module gets full power and the resistor is only in line with the coil.. check to make sure you have that setup.

past that..it should spark when she rolls over if the module and coil are good and voltage is correct. not much other troubleshooting you can do.

can buy alotta points for the cost of that module.. :)

good luck.

soundguy
 
David.......call the electronic ignition manufacturer. (NOT yesterdays tractor) Thats WHY you pay BIG BUCKS for el-cheapo points replacement.

My first recommendation for sparkie problems is replace the weaksister ignition switch. $15 (cheap) .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Yes the resitor is in line with the coil. The module is wired directly to the ignition wire per the directions. I am curious if when the resistor failed could it have damaged the module?
If it can not be checked it sounds like i will be spending the money again or going back to points....Thanks for the help.
 
I have heared alot about the spring on the bottum of your coil not being at the rigt angle or close enough to make spark I had to adjust and stretch spring a little to get spark on my brand new coil
 
David......resistors fail like litebulbs. they either work or they don't. When resistors don't work, its like turning the ignition switch off. Does turning the real ignition switch off/on damage the module??? Think about it. .......respectfully, Dell
 
Thanks for the help I will call the manufacture to see if they have any sugesstions on how to check the module. I was just thinking some of you may have a sugesstion on what or how to check next?
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:05 05/05/10) I have replaced my points and condensor on my 1949 8N front mount distributor with the electronic ignition conversion kit 1247 from yesterdays tractor. Wired and was running then started cutting off when running and hot. Found a faulty resistor and replaced. Still no spark. Does anyone know how to check the electronic ignition other then no spark at the plug? I have power to the coil and have checked the coil, it checks ok. Still no spark.

David, you didn't specify 1247 or 1247-P6 and therefore the answers you got so far, other than contact Pertronix, are of virtually zero value, since the two are not wired up the same and would not be tested the same, but then other than 'got spark or not' was about the extent of testing instructions.
Bruce would always ask 6v, 12v, pos or neg ground, which are necessary things to know in your case.
 
If you purchased the 1247 kit that means you are still 6 volts. I converted my 1949 8 N to a 12 volt alternator system and E/I. Runs great and I have not had any problems. I have heard that the 6 volt E/I is very voltage sensitive. If you battery is a little low it may not fire. Charge up your battery and see if that corrects the problem.
 
(quoted from post at 13:54:27 05/05/10) If you purchased the 1247 kit that means you are still 6 volts. I converted my 1949 8 N to a 12 volt alternator system and E/I. Runs great and I have not had any problems. I have heard that the 6 volt E/I is very voltage sensitive. If you battery is a little low it may not fire. Charge up your battery and see if that corrects the problem.
John, this is a place where particulars matter. #1247 is 12v/neg gnd.
#1247-P6 is 6v/pos gnd.
 
I just recently (last week) added a 1247XT to my '49 8N. I had converted it to 12v neg. gnd. several years ago and was still running a 6v square coil using both a ballast and a voltage dropping resistor in-line in the batt wire to the coil. I just got tired of always having to fiddle with the spring in the coil and the HV tab to the dist. cap and the points...and yada yada yada. I was a little unsure about whether the ballast resistor was to remain in the ignition circuit or not so I sent an e-mail to Pertronix and they responded with the answer that for the 1247XT ALL external resistors needed to be removed. I did and over the weekend I was able to shred for over five hours non-stop without any hiccups, misfires, or mechanical delays. The coil never got overly hot and as far as I'm concerned this is the way to go (unless you like taking frequent breaks). Seems to me like any arrangement that eliminates external resistors (and their multiple connection joints) can only result in a more reliable system.
 
(quoted from post at 14:55:03 05/05/10) I just recently (last week) added a 1247XT to my '49 8N. I had converted it to 12v neg. gnd. several years ago and was still running a 6v square coil using both a ballast and a voltage dropping resistor in-line in the batt wire to the coil. I just got tired of always having to fiddle with the spring in the coil and the HV tab to the dist. cap and the points...and yada yada yada. I was a little unsure about whether the ballast resistor was to remain in the ignition circuit or not so I sent an e-mail to Pertronix and they responded with the answer that for the 1247XT ALL external resistors needed to be removed. I did and over the weekend I was able to shred for over five hours non-stop without any hiccups, misfires, or mechanical delays. The coil never got overly hot and as far as I'm concerned this is the way to go (unless you like taking frequent breaks). Seems to me like any arrangement that eliminates external resistors (and their multiple connection joints) can only result in a more reliable system.
Surely, when you asked them that question (and they gave 'no res' response) that you specified a particular coil or coil characteristics! I can not believe that their module handles such a wide range as "any coil", since that could produce currents of >30amps to as little as 3 or 4 amps. That's quite a broad range for the module.
 
it's pretty much one of those things where you give power to the module, power to the coil, and roll the engine over.. if the module works and the coil is good.. it makes sparks.. assuming no problems like broken rotor.. etc..

soundguy
 
Sorry.....I probably should have included the statement that Pertronix includes a regular automotive style ignition coil in their 1247XT kit. I'm guessing they've been down the road of poor performance (and bad reviews) by users of their kits when they are allowed to match EI modules and ignition coils with and without ballast resistors. The only thing that threw me during the installation is that their instructions are kinda generic and cover a lot of situations....some of which indicate the use of ballast resistors. I just wanted to make real sure I gave my installation the best chance possible....cause if anybody can screw sumptin up....its me!
 
(quoted from post at 09:23:54 05/06/10) Sorry.....I probably should have included the statement that Pertronix includes a regular automotive style ignition coil in their 1247XT kit. I'm guessing they've been down the road of poor performance (and bad reviews) by users of their kits when they are allowed to match EI modules and ignition coils with and without ballast resistors. The only thing that threw me during the installation is that their instructions are kinda generic and cover a lot of situations....some of which indicate the use of ballast resistors. I just wanted to make real sure I gave my installation the best chance possible....cause if anybody can screw sumptin up....its me!
ood. If you buy their 'matched' components and they don't play together, it is pretty much in their lap.
 
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