8N hibernation

Pip

Member
I recently bought my first "big" tractor. It's an 8N that someone started to restore and then let lay for 15 years. I was told it wouldn't run so I took a ramp truck to pick it up, winched it up on the deck and brought it home. I wondered quite a few times during that 4 hour ride just how tough it might be to breathe life into that 8N again. I rolled it into the a corner of the garage and gave it a good look over. The gas cap was missing and what fuel there was looked more like a glaze for the Xmas ham we'd be having. No battery, no ignition coil, points, rotor and condenser missing. Front tires flat. Starter solenoid missing. Good tin though and I could crank the engine by hand. I pumped up the front tires and went home.
No battery and coil made a 12v conversion an easier choice so I ordered the parts and then picked up the battery and ignition parts at the local NAPA store next morning. Got to the garage and saw the tires held air. Good news. Put on the starter solenoid and did what I could with the ignition parts I had. Freed up the distributor weights. Put a little Mystery oil in each cylinder. Came back a couple of days later with the conversion kit and my friend Ernie. Now I finally had an ignition coil. Put all that stuff on and added a fuse to the electrical circuit (you would have thought Henry would have taken care of that). I used an oiler full of gasoline to feed the carb. I double checked everything I'd done, pulled the choke, turned the key and hit the starter. It started on the second revolution with a cloud of smoke and a blast of crap coming out of the exhaust pipe. This not being the first old engine I'd started I had remembered to turn on an exhaust fan. The smoke cleared out and this thing sounded great. But absolutley no oil pressure. I was bumming out. Ernie is a guy who can fix your washing machine, lawnmower or VCR. He wasn't so discouraged. He explaind that the oil pump was a gear type and was probably dry and wouldn't prime. He thought for a minute and pulled the top of the oil filter canister off. He took an air hose and blew into the center tube. The oil in the bottom of the canister bubbled and he put the cap back on and had me try it again. Problem solved 35 psi. He's a regular McGyver.
I sent the fuel tank out to be boiled today but I've got to think everything is downhill from here on.
You've gotta love these old gals. Park your modern car for 15 months and you'd need a bolt of lightning to start it.
 
Great story Pip = Keep us posted on your progress.

It's s great to hear something positive about these old relics. Most of the time (me included) the poster is stuck and troubled.

Again, great story!!
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:03 12/29/09) Great story.Glad it worked out for you. I also know a Mcgiver guy.Nice to know someone with the knowledge they have.
eat story alright & as DB said, "glad it worked out for you". & it is probably just luck that it did, since blowing into the oil canister center tube only forces oil into the governor to drain back into the oil pan.........does not pressurize or feed any oil either to oil pump inlet or outlet.
 
It's kind of hard to argue with success. I had to wonder if pressurizing the crankcase through the oil return line pushed the oil level in the pan down just enough to force a little oil into the pump. Sure you'd lose air pressure through the oil fill/breather, past the valve stems and a few other places but you would get a pressure differential that would probably have forced some oil up into the pump. I did see oil bubbling in the canister so some mixture of oil/air had to escape through there. If anyone knows just how high above the level of oil in the pan the pump sets I'd like to know. I've never had this type of engine apart and if I'm lucky enough I'll stay in ignorance a lot longer (lol).
I would caution anyone who ever decides to try this to be REAL careful about how much pressure you apply. If that breather/fill cap blows off it's heading for your cookie jar.
 
(quoted from post at 17:39:12 12/29/09) It's kind of hard to argue with success. I had to wonder if pressurizing the crankcase through the oil return line pushed the oil level in the pan down just enough to force a little oil into the pump. Sure you'd lose air pressure through the oil fill/breather, past the valve stems and a few other places but you would get a pressure differential that would probably have forced some oil up into the pump. I did see oil bubbling in the canister so some mixture of oil/air had to escape through there. If anyone knows just how high above the level of oil in the pan the pump sets I'd like to know. I've never had this type of engine apart and if I'm lucky enough I'll stay in ignorance a lot longer (lol).
I would caution anyone who ever decides to try this to be REAL careful about how much pressure you apply. If that breather/fill cap blows off it's heading for your cookie jar.
Yes, about success. About 3 1/2 inches, judging by cylinder diameter, from oil up to pump, or in terms of pressure, a little over a tenth of a pound per square inch.........so, maybe you got enough volume into the leaky crankcase to achieve that pressure? You got oil pressure & that's what matters!
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