8N No Spark Still!!!!!

[CODI]

Okay. I have replaced the condenser as suggested by JMOR but there is still no spark! So the only thing left has to be the insulator and the copper strip shorting out, right? We have established that the coil is good, the battery is charged, the cap is new, the points are gaped correctly and there is no burning or pitting present. At this point, it has to be the insulator and copper strip or the wires. I guess either is possible.....
I am attaching some pics of the insulator and cooper wire, rotor button, and cap.

 

[JCinKY]

Yep. My next step would be to replace the insulator. Cut one out of an old oil jug. Free and worth a shot.

 

[gears]

do you have a meter or test light to check the system for shorts or breaks? You can use a light or continuity or volts or ohms to check if it's grounding out with the points open.

Watch for it grounding out on that lug going through the distributor body, there's also a fiber (insulating) washer between the points rocker and the distributor plate IIRC

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:47:14 03/23/14) Okay. I have replaced the condenser as suggested by JMOR but there is still no spark! So the only thing left has to be the insulator and the copper strip shorting out, right? We have established that the coil is good, the battery is charged, the cap is new, the points are gaped correctly and there is no burning or pitting present. At this point, it has to be the insulator and copper strip or the wires. I guess either is possible.....
I am attaching some pics of the insulator and cooper wire, rotor button, and cap.

y "temporary" fix until I could get a new feed-thru insulator has lasted a couple of decades.........length of wire & dab of sealant for the dust.

 

[CODI]

Hmmmm I am not seeing this washer. And yes I have a light I have been testing with. Something in the distributor is grounding out

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:55:18 03/23/14) Hmmmm I am not seeing this washer. And yes I have a light I have been testing with. Something in the distributor is grounding out

t is the white plastic part in my picture.

 

[CODI]

How? Sorry if that is a stupid question, but I don't want to mess it up.

 

[CODI]

Ohhhh haha. Yep that is there!

 

[CODI]

Did you just run the wire from the coil to the distributor, straight through the existing insulator and connected to where the copper strip normally connects?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" Hmmmm I am not seeing this washer."

Check out tip # 39. A set of manuals will be very helpful.

The washer is part # 44713-S.

That's on page 159 of the Master Parts catalog.

75 Tips

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" How? Sorry if that is a stupid question, but I don't want to mess it up"

I have made them. JMOR has made them. But, as I said to you on Thursday:

" If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all."

Your call........
75 Tips

 

[CODI]

I do have manuals. Just sometimes some extra help is needed, especially when you are a detail oriented as I am. I apologize if my questions are amateurish, but the fact is I am an amateur with these tractors and I don't want to over look anything. While I am an amateur, I am not completely stupid. I came here for help not snarky answers.
When he said between the plate and the points, I thought he meant the washer was located on the underside of the bracket that points are mounted to.
As far as not having an OHM meter, I have never had one and I haven't had a need for one until now. If you knew more of my current situation "go buy one" isn't a viable solution.
I don't like getting harsh with people but I wont be patronized when I am asking for help.
Thanks

 

[CODI]

Yes I know. I have to wait a while until I get paid before I can get them. That is why I was looking for a temporary solution.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Patronizing?

Snarky?

Really?

So with something like 11 attempts to assist you over the past 3-4 days, I'm now snarky & patronizing?

Well, I'll tell you what.....

Those manuals aren't doing much but collecting dust because it's apparent you've never opened them. And if being reminded of that offends you, well then maybe you I just need some serious sensitivity training.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

I used JMOR temporary solution about 4 years ago and it is going strong. A simple wire from the coil to the condenser has worked just fine.

 

[CODI]

I always have the manual open. ALWAYS! Thank you for helping, just when I say "I don't have a tool" then returning with "that is like working on these tractors with two screwdrivers", comes across wrong. I get that you are a pro at working on these things and I doubt your ability, just sometimes clarification is needed.
I don't need sensitivity training. lol I find it hysterical you think so.

 

[nysbrad]

[quot="CODI"](reply to post at 12:34:31 03/23/14) [/quote]i Codi I understand the need to vent, I had the same problem with a fergeson TO30 , on that the insulator that held the post in the side of the dist. that the points clamped to the inside and the wire coming off the coil to the outside had broken allowing the points to ground out. the way I found this was to take a test light after taking the wire off between the coil neg side and the post on the outside of the dist. making sure the points were open , and turning the key on . the test light lit which showed that a short was there I then took the post apart when I found that the fiber insulator had seen better days ,was able to replace it and was up and running . Don't give up.

 

[CODI]

Okay! Thanks! I will try it as I don't have another option right now.

 

[CODI]

Thanks for the encouragement! I will try JMOR's temporary fix and then go from there.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" when I say "I don't have a tool" then returning with "that is like working on these tractors with two screwdrivers", comes across wrong."

It might "come across" as wrong to some folks.....but it also happens to be correct in the context in which it was stated.

It's not like I advised you to go out & buy a $100 tool for a one time use. Or, as I've been told here a few times, I should buy a double flaring tool ($60+) to make my own 8N fuel lines. (at $17 each) Considering that I've replaced 2 fuel lines in 15 years, and nothing around here has hydraulic brakes, I'm not paying the $65.

But........

A cheap multi-meter has many other uses than once to troubleshoot a problem w/ a distributor.

If you have to buy it, they go for $10.

I get mine free.

Print the coupon; if you have a H-F store nearby, you can get one free too.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Just look at the length of this thread!
All these painfull, agonizing threads over blasted points.
And people wonder why I advocate electronic ignition.
Just pay someone to put in EI and never touch the inside of your distributer again.

 

[CODI]

Okay thanks! I just tried JMORS temporary fix and I am still not getting fire to the plugs or out of the secondary wire from the coil. About the only other thing at this point is plug wires????

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

I don't recall specifically, but judging from Bruce's suggestion about a multi-meter, if you don't have one, go get one at NAPA, HF, Sears, etc. Just a simple analog multimeter will tell you plenty. Start following the current and find where it ground out at. I did the JMOR fix after the multimeter told me where the current was and was not. An analog type shouldn't cost more than $20 bucks and the free one is the free one from HF.

 

[CODI]

Are they that good? How hard are they to put in?

 

[CODI]

Okay I am gonna have to.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

I am not going to get into the EI vs. points squabble, but you need find where the ground/short is in the system before you throw EI at it. Once running on points, then go ahead and switch over--if you want.

 

[CODI]

Okay. Thanks! Good advice!

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:42:47 03/23/14) I am not going to get into the EI vs. points squabble, but you need find where the ground/short is in the system before you throw EI at it. Once running on points, then go ahead and switch over--if you want.

illy suggestion anyway..........the guy can't, by his own words, afford a $10 meter and he is helped by suggesting a $100 EI!!??? He wants help!

BS aside. CODI, no new wires or anything just yet, OK. Your test light has a wire with a clip and a pointed awl like end on the body, right? With my "temporary" fix wire running between coil and points (same connection point as condenser) and no feed-thru terminal, connect the test light clip to the distributor base, bare metal. Next, be sure points are open. Turn on ign key. Touch probe point to the coil terminal opposite the wire going to the coil. It should light. If it doesn't light, stop & do nothing further without telling me. If it does light, then move probe to the coil terminal going to distributor (my temporary wire) and with key still on, engage starter & see if light blinks on/off/on/etc. Let me know.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

(quoted from post at 23:04:20 03/23/14)

(quoted from post at 17:42:47 03/23/14) I am not going to get into the EI vs. points squabble, but you need find where the ground/short is in the system before you throw EI at it. Once running on points, then go ahead and switch over--if you want.

illy suggestion anyway..........the guy can't, by his own words, afford a $10 meter and he is helped by suggesting a $100 EI!!??? He wants help!

BS aside. CODI, no new wires or anything just yet, OK. Your test light has a wire with a clip and a pointed awl like end on the body, right? With my "temporary" fix wire running between coil and points (same connection point as condenser) and no feed-thru terminal, connect the test light clip to the distributor base, bare metal. Next, be sure points are open. Turn on ign key. Touch probe point to the coil terminal opposite the wire going to the coil. It should light. If it doesn't light, stop & do nothing further without telling me. If it does light, then move probe to the coil terminal going to distributor (my temporary wire) and with key still on, engage starter & see if light blinks on/off/on/etc. Let me know.

JMOR,

I did not say he needed to buy the EI. That is his call later. He needs to get the tractor running. He needs a tester to find his problem. Whether it is a blinking light or analog meter it makes no difference to me, but he needs to take the probe and trace the current to find his problem. That is the way I found my grounding problem-tracing the current--and then YOU suggested the temporary fix which has turned permanent--and it is a good fix if that is where the problem lies.

Codi, though I take exception with the way he knee-capped me, go with JMOR on his troubleshooting. He is an expert at mechanics and you will be served well by his detailed procedure.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" All these painfull, agonizing threads over blasted points."

He doesn't have a problem w/ the points. The problem isn't inside the distributor. The problem is with the insulator on the side of the distributor.

Spending $100 for EI wouldn't fix that problem.
75 Tips

 

[CODI]

I will try it now and let you know. Hang on.......

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:21:27 03/23/14)

(quoted from post at 23:04:20 03/23/14)

(quoted from post at 17:42:47 03/23/14) I am not going to get into the EI vs. points squabble, but you need find where the ground/short is in the system before you throw EI at it. Once running on points, then go ahead and switch over--if you want.

illy suggestion anyway..........the guy can't, by his own words, afford a $10 meter and he is helped by suggesting a $100 EI!!??? He wants help!

BS aside. CODI, no new wires or anything just yet, OK. Your test light has a wire with a clip and a pointed awl like end on the body, right? With my "temporary" fix wire running between coil and points (same connection point as condenser) and no feed-thru terminal, connect the test light clip to the distributor base, bare metal. Next, be sure points are open. Turn on ign key. Touch probe point to the coil terminal opposite the wire going to the coil. It should light. If it doesn't light, stop & do nothing further without telling me. If it does light, then move probe to the coil terminal going to distributor (my temporary wire) and with key still on, engage starter & see if light blinks on/off/on/etc. Let me know.

JMOR,

I did not say he needed to buy the EI. That is his call later. He needs to get the tractor running. He needs a tester to find his problem. Whether it is a blinking light or analog meter it makes no difference to me, but he needs to take the probe and trace the current to find his problem. That is the way I found my grounding problem-tracing the current--and then YOU suggested the temporary fix which has turned permanent--and it is a good fix if that is where the problem lies.

Codi, though I take exception with the way he knee-capped me, go with JMOR on his troubleshooting. He is an expert at mechanics and you will be served well by his detailed procedure.

^ at Snook, TX...I do apologize for appearing to "knee cap" you. Not my intention. After all, you were not the one who suggested EI, but rather the one who cautioned him to at least get it running first. I use modern view. You can't tell who a person is responding to in modern, as it sticks my response in in time order following the previous 'last' post. Please do accept my apologies.

 

[CODI]

Okay..... I the light came on for both terminals and is coming on across points like it should. I tried sticking the probe in one of the cap terminals for the spark plug wires and got nothing. The cap and the rotor are brand new. What next?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" I tried sticking the probe in one of the cap terminals for the spark plug wires and got nothing. "

Why are you doing that? JMOR told you:

" Don't use a light on the secondary......"

And I told you:

"The secondary wire carries spark voltage to the plugs when the points open. It goes from the center of the coil to the center of the distributor cap. There is nothing you can measure there. "


We are still having a failure to communicate.

Put it all back together, charge the battery & check for spark with a spark plug or plug checker at the plugs with the key on while the engine is cranking over.

You will never see the light come on at the distributor cap because there is no continuity between the rotor & cap.

 

[CODI]

(quoted from post at 00:41:59 03/24/14) " I tried sticking the probe in one of the cap terminals for the spark plug wires and got nothing. "

Why are you doing that? JMOR told you:

" Don't use a light on the secondary......"

And I told you:

"The secondary wire carries spark voltage to the plugs when the points open. It goes from the center of the coil to the center of the distributor cap. There is nothing you can measure there. "


We are still having a failure to communicate.

Put it all back together, charge the battery & check for spark with a spark plug or plug checker at the plugs with the key on while the engine is cranking over.

You will never see the light come on at the distributor cap because there is no continuity between the rotor & cap.

Okay. That makes sense. I did try putting it all back together and I got no spark at the plugs.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I didn't read this whole thread. Don't need to read a points and dist problem for the thousanth time. Look at the photos. It's a side mount. If the problem is the insulator in the side of his dist then EI WOULD fix the problem. He would throw all that old points crap out, thread the new ei wires through that hole and secure them with a dab of silicone.
Done

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

(quoted from post at 00:05:22 03/24/14)

(quoted from post at 18:21:27 03/23/14)

(quoted from post at 23:04:20 03/23/14)

(quoted from post at 17:42:47 03/23/14) I am not going to get into the EI vs. points squabble, but you need find where the ground/short is in the system before you throw EI at it. Once running on points, then go ahead and switch over--if you want.

illy suggestion anyway..........the guy can't, by his own words, afford a $10 meter and he is helped by suggesting a $100 EI!!??? He wants help!

BS aside. CODI, no new wires or anything just yet, OK. Your test light has a wire with a clip and a pointed awl like end on the body, right? With my "temporary" fix wire running between coil and points (same connection point as condenser) and no feed-thru terminal, connect the test light clip to the distributor base, bare metal. Next, be sure points are open. Turn on ign key. Touch probe point to the coil terminal opposite the wire going to the coil. It should light. If it doesn't light, stop & do nothing further without telling me. If it does light, then move probe to the coil terminal going to distributor (my temporary wire) and with key still on, engage starter & see if light blinks on/off/on/etc. Let me know.

JMOR,

I did not say he needed to buy the EI. That is his call later. He needs to get the tractor running. He needs a tester to find his problem. Whether it is a blinking light or analog meter it makes no difference to me, but he needs to take the probe and trace the current to find his problem. That is the way I found my grounding problem-tracing the current--and then YOU suggested the temporary fix which has turned permanent--and it is a good fix if that is where the problem lies.

Codi, though I take exception with the way he knee-capped me, go with JMOR on his troubleshooting. He is an expert at mechanics and you will be served well by his detailed procedure.

^ at Snook, TX...I do apologize for appearing to "knee cap" you. Not my intention. After all, you were not the one who suggested EI, but rather the one who cautioned him to at least get it running first. I use modern view. You can't tell who a person is responding to in modern, as it sticks my response in in time order following the previous 'last' post. Please do accept my apologies.

Apologies accepted. I can be a bit thin skinned as well at times. Now, hopefully this fellow can get his tractor going.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 19:12:22 03/23/14) Okay..... I the light came on for both terminals and is coming on across points like it should. I tried sticking the probe in one of the cap terminals for the spark plug wires and got nothing. The cap and the rotor are brand new. What next?

hat about this part of my question? It needs an answer too. ".........& see if light blinks on/off/on/etc. Let me know.
"

P.S. light on isn't the same as light blinking, so on in both cases is an incomplete answer. Please try again.

 

[CODI]

(quoted from post at 02:40:41 03/24/14)

(quoted from post at 19:12:22 03/23/14) Okay..... I the light came on for both terminals and is coming on across points like it should. I tried sticking the probe in one of the cap terminals for the spark plug wires and got nothing. The cap and the rotor are brand new. What next?

hat about this part of my question? It needs an answer too. ".........& see if light blinks on/off/on/etc. Let me know.
"

Ahhh yes..... No blink just solid.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 21:53:21 03/23/14)

(quoted from post at 02:40:41 03/24/14)

(quoted from post at 19:12:22 03/23/14) Okay..... I the light came on for both terminals and is coming on across points like it should. I tried sticking the probe in one of the cap terminals for the spark plug wires and got nothing. The cap and the rotor are brand new. What next?

hat about this part of my question? It needs an answer too. ".........& see if light blinks on/off/on/etc. Let me know.
"

Ahhh yes..... No blink just solid.

ell, that is a darned critical piece of the puzzle. Omission is bad! Leads in wrong directions. What this means is that even though the points may be physically closing, that are not making electrical contact. Thus no coil current & no spark. Clean point contacts, be sure gap is 0.025 inch and repeat. Actually, first, repeat the probing where this time you short across the open points with a screwdriver while observing for blinking test lamp.

 

[CODI]

These are new points that I just put in too! I checked the gap over and over but I guess I still got it wrong. What do you usually use to clean your points?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 22:12:14 03/23/14) These are new points that I just put in too! I checked the gap over and over but I guess I still got it wrong. What do you usually use to clean your points?

he way I do it might get you electrocuted, so I do not recommend it for others.
Let the points close firmly on a piece of rough paper such as old brown grocery bag & pull it thru. Repeat a few times.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Around here you can "borrow" a lot of things from places like Auto Zone at no cost. No need to buy anything! If moneys tight, that might be the way to go.

 

[Ultradog MN]

[i:654c4848f0]Silly suggestion anyway..........the guy can't, by his own words, afford a $10 meter and he is helped by suggesting a $100 EI!!??? He wants help!
[/i:654c4848f0]

Is this in reference to my post JMOR?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 08:39:55 03/24/14) [i:2074d25a4e]Silly suggestion anyway..........the guy can't, by his own words, afford a $10 meter and he is helped by suggesting a $100 EI!!??? He wants help!
[/i:2074d25a4e]

Is this in reference to my post JMOR?

bsolutely!

 

[souNdguy]

wow. i was gonna jump in but after seeing his comment. I won't...

 

[Ultradog MN]

Et Tu Jessie?

 

[souNdguy]

LMAO!

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 09:53:12 03/24/14) Et Tu Jessie?

e could play word games all day long, but I am anxious for CODI to return so that I may help him & hopefully get his tractor running during my lifetime.

 

[gears]

Jmor, good writeup for how to test for the points opening or closing. I don't think he's getting the point that the light should go off if he opens the points.

CODI, if the test light doesn't turn off if you open the points it means it's grounding out on something other than the closed points. If it's not the stud sticking through the side of the distributor then it might be how you stacked the washers & insulators on that piece of spring steel that pulls the points closed. Also, if you've added or doctored any of the washers in there to where they come in contact with the moving arm of the points or that spring steel you could be grounding out there.

 

[CODI]

It is running! I ran a piece of brown paper bag through the points this morning. When I tested for spark there was a bright blue spark at the plugs and boom she fired right up!

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:04:15 03/24/14) It is running! I ran a piece of brown paper bag through the points this morning. When I tested for spark there was a bright blue spark at the plugs and boom she fired right up!

ell, it took awhile & a lot of baby steps to get there, but I am happy for you that you got it up & running!

 

[CODI]

Baby steps indeed! But that is how you learn I guess.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Okay fellas,
If we're going to lower ourselves to impudence then I'll give you guys the battle and let you have the field.
Jmor, I do have a vom. I've bought and sold 15 or 20 tractors in the last 14 years and couldn't have done it if I couldn't check voltage, make spark, motor a generator or figure out a faulty VR.
You will not find many questions about electrics from me here.
But I don't like doing electrics and I understand others who don't either.
That's why I've always tried to offer an alternative.
Ultimately though, I have lost interest in these Ns and perhaps my attitude shows it. If the paradigm here is always gonna be points and 6V and no shift without an eternal fight maybe I'm better off sticking to the tractors I like and the boards that I respect.
I know if I just left a bunch of folks here would be happy.
Gonna think about what I'll do. But things do need to change.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 19:48:22 03/24/14) Okay fellas,
If we're going to lower ourselves to impudence then I'll give you guys the battle and let you have the field.
Jmor, I do have a vom. I've bought and sold 15 or 20 tractors in the last 14 years and couldn't have done it if I couldn't check voltage, make spark, motor a generator or figure out a faulty VR.
You will not find many questions about electrics from me here.
But I don't like doing electrics and I understand others who don't either.
That's why I've always tried to offer an alternative.
Ultimately though, I have lost interest in these Ns and perhaps my attitude shows it. If the paradigm here is always gonna be points and 6V and no shift without an eternal fight maybe I'm better off sticking to the tractors I like and the boards that I respect.
I know if I just left a bunch of folks here would be happy.
Gonna think about what I'll do.

f you had not mentioned my name, I wouldn't even bother to respond to this. Number one, you apparently totally missed the point of my criticism earlier. Point being that your recommending the poor fellow spend $100 for EI when he just said he couldn't afford a $10 meter was of ZERO value as assistance to him. Got it. Arrogance/overbearing? Who exactly is he who N-E-V-E-R misses an opportunity to push EI & beat down 'originality' folks? You said that you only have diesels! Why the uncontrollable, overwhelming need/drive to push EI on others when you don't use it and are not in a position of technical excellence to help those that you push it on whenever they have trouble. Talk about disregard for others! While certainly not a spokesperson for Bruce (VA), from my point of view you have only one agenda in such a strong push & that is to to be his anti-, his opponent, perhaps nemesis. You probably can't find me opposing EI, nor opposing 12v, nor 6v, nor positive ground or negative ground. I help all comers as long as they are willing to follow directions & listen. I don't give a rat's @$$ whether a fellow wants to use one or the other. His decision, not mine to push one or the other down his throat. I'll help him with any of them. The more the better, the more I will learn, the better I can teach. It sure doesn't help when guys like UD and others jump in with BS & irrelevant "info" to sidetrack the target either. We get a rhythm going, knocking off one possibility at a time, then along comes a big interruption that doesn't fit the flow in any way. Then there are those that just have to relate any incidental experience they ever had along life's way, or incident of a friend or heard about from a friend of a friend & on & on........simply a disruption , hindrance, and often containing wrong 'information' as well. Oh, yes, closer to topic....test light vs meter. For a guy who can't use a test light, it is insane to recommend a meter to him. When people are at that point of learning electrics, they are many times better off with the light. An expert can accomplish "most" tractor trouble shooting with a light......of course there are exceptions. Also things that he wouldn't be able to do with or without a meter, too.
"That's why I've always tried to offer an alternative." BANG! Sure a more complex alternative that even fewer know how to trouble shoot. But not to worry, if that is what they want, I can teach them that, too. "...points and 6V and no shift without an eternal fight maybe ...". Why fight & make it hard on yourself? Why push others so hard to do what YOU want? How about free-access deer feeders......any come and get what they want when they want it.
"But things do need to change.". Only you can make that change. Stop trying to force others to your preferences. You can be happier. Maybe you really enjoy butting heads with Bruce......no skin loss by me, so if that it what motivates you & gives you pleasure in life, keep at it. You can probably even escalate it if that works for you. Don't run off, I'm sure you entertain some.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Holy Mackerel Jmor,
What in the heck was that?
I'm thinking you are taking this stuff way too seriously. Putting way too much stock in a darned internet board.
I'm not worth it, arguing aint worth it, points aint worth it, Ns aren't worth this high of blood pressure.
If I've got under your skin this bad I apologize.
Jeez.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(reply to post at 06:18:14 03/25/14)

I just read the last page this chit bores the ell out of me...

I remember the first time i seen a guy a few years older than me install a set of points I thought he was a smart sum a buick... I remember the first time i seen a guy clean his points for a no start and it fired up I thought he was a smart sum a buick... I remember the first time I seen a guy hit a GM starter with a hammer and the car cranked and started I thought he was a smart sum a buick... (I thought he was god)

I have a screw driver and a pair of pliers in my tow truck if that don't get'er going it needs to be towed back to the shop.. That hammer cost me to many tow's :wink:

My point most of the time I don't give it away but don't get in the way of those that do... Especially if I know its good will and they are not out to prove how smart they are... You can learn a lot form good will from the right folks...

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 22:18:14 03/24/14) Holy Mackerel Jmor,
What in the heck was that?
I'm thinking you are taking this stuff way too seriously. Putting way too much stock in a darned internet board.
I'm not worth it, arguing aint worth it, points aint worth it, Ns aren't worth this high of blood pressure.
If I've got under your skin this bad I apologize.
Jeez.

ust trying to help you out, so maybe you won't be so depressed in failing to make everyone else over in your image. No arguing on my part...that is in the UD/Bruce domain! Sorry about your high blood pressure, but keep up your forcefulness & it will get worse. Nothing under my skin. even though you surely would like to be since I'm not Ultra BAD. Why don't you take up HELPING people? Good for the soul & your blood pressure problem, too.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I'm sorry Jmor but I think you're embarassing yourself, not me.
So I wont reply to this thread again.
As for Bruce, despite whatever I think of his electrics, I believe he is a man who can take care of him self without the help of me, you, or anyone else here.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 06:48:38 03/25/14)
I'm sorry Jmor but I think you're embarassing yourself, not me.
So I wont reply to this thread again.
As for Bruce, despite whatever I think of his electrics, I believe he is a man who can take care of him self without the help of me, you, or anyone else here.

ell, 'Old UD' (Old's honorary replacement), that is really good news to me as well as others, since your entertainment value is wearing thin anyway. Something to think about in your absence (long), when is the last time anyone on these boards said to you, hey thanks a bunch for your help, without you I would have never made this tractor run. Think lately. :roll:

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Being prominently “mentioned in dispatches”, I think I need to reply.

First, I think the continual bickering between me & UD over EI is over. What started out as a technical argument between us got to be an exchange of one-up-man-ship. Despite my basic premise that EI rarely cured N ignition problems & only absolved the owner form points maintenance & occasional replacement, UD offered up his one experience on one tractor that EI would not only fix any ignition problem, it would also cure the common cold & result in world peace. I think (hope) we both recognized that our posts went past technical assistance, past humor & got into the realm of irritating/boring BS. Hence our joint apologies sometime back.

I think, however, what you are addressing is that the unpleasant debate between UD & me over EI is perhaps indicative of our approach to helping others on this board.

As you pointed out, you & I were engaged in an exchange w/ CODI trying to help him get his tractor started when UD decides to “help” too by suggesting EI as the cure. Despite the fact that CODI just said he could not afford a $10 meter. And given that the problem CODI had was the insulator on the side of the distributor, EI wouldn’t have helped him a bit. That comment served no purpose whatsoever to help CODI & simply underscored UD’s obsession w/ EI being a cure for any & all ignition problems on N’s . Not only was the comment not relevant, it was a distraction.

As you said, this board is about helping others & learning in the process. Sometimes we learn new things, sometimes the “learning” re-enforces what we already knew. For example, you are a far better ‘helper’ than I am, and it’s not because of your EE education & experience that far exceeds mine: it’s simply because you have far, far more patience & a greater ability to help those w/o limited technical expertise than I ever will. This latest exchange re-enforced that knowledge. It’s not really how much you know as it is how you impart that knowledge. And, finally, I learned what you have mentioned before: “For a guy who can't use a test light, it is insane to recommend a meter to him. When people are at that point of learning electrics, they are many times better off with the light.” Agreed. While it’s important for any tractor owner to buy a meter……doing so in the middle of trying to learn how to use a test light was not good advice.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I don't want to take sides but I think the punches are starting to get below the belt... Can we have a beer summit...

 

[pikewi]

I am with HOBO

 

[CODI]

The important thing is she is purin' like a kitten thanks to JMOR and Bruce's help.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" The important thing is she is purin' like a kitten thanks to JMOR and Bruce's help. "

You're welcome.

Glad to help.