8n oil pump

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Last week I made a post about an 8n engine my dad had with low oil pressure after warm up. I decided that I'm going to pull the pan and remove the oil pump. With the oil pump out, I'm going to take it apart and inspect it for anything that may have been missed. Has anyone silver soldered or epoxied the pick-up tube to the pump? I've never silver soldered before. Is it just like soldering copper pipes? I've done lots of that. JB weld? Then I'm going to check the bearings. The engine is currently on a stand, so I can do anything I want to it.
 
(quoted from post at 10:44:07 02/28/09) Last week I made a post about an 8n engine my dad had with low oil pressure after warm up. I decided that I'm going to pull the pan and remove the oil pump. With the oil pump out, I'm going to take it apart and inspect it for anything that may have been missed. Has anyone silver soldered or epoxied the pick-up tube to the pump? I've never silver soldered before. Is it just like soldering copper pipes? I've done lots of that. JB weld? Then I'm going to check the bearings. The engine is currently on a stand, so I can do anything I want to it.

Silver solder is just a high temp solder - same process but requires higher heat and is a bit stronger - typically done with acetylene rather than propane.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 10:44:07 02/28/09) Last week I made a post about an 8n engine my dad had with low oil pressure after warm up. I decided that I'm going to pull the pan and remove the oil pump. With the oil pump out, I'm going to take it apart and inspect it for anything that may have been missed. Has anyone silver soldered or epoxied the pick-up tube to the pump? I've never silver soldered before. Is it just like soldering copper pipes? I've done lots of that. JB weld? Then I'm going to check the bearings. The engine is currently on a stand, so I can do anything I want to it.
call it closer to brazing than tin/lead soldering. Silver solder doesn't 'wick' as easily as tin lead and requires more heat (~1100 deg F). I never apply direct flame to tin lead solder (~400 deg F), but some is generally needed with silver brazing (5%), after the metal parts are thoroughly heated and the flame needs to be moved around the joint with brazing rather than a 'one spot' technique that can be used with tin lead.Thoroughly clean & flux. JB weld isn't the right solution on oil pickup tube.
 
I repaired mine with silver solder (see original post linked below). I have never done a repair like that - so the results were not pretty - but effective LOL. Set the pickup tube in place as well as the oil pan and bend the pickup tube to the proper location BEFORE repairing. Also - burn and wipe off ALL original lead solder before attempting to silver solder. I also cleaned the area real good with brake cleaner. Flux the heck out of the area before soldering.

I used a rig that allowed small oxygen canisters along with MAPP canisters to form an Oxy/MAPP torch (you can find them for $50 at home improvement stores). Luckily - mine was a gift from Sean on this board and worked very good. I'll bet that plain MAPP would work though.

My '39 gets 35 psi cold and never drops below 25 psi on a low idle when hot - I would say the repair worked.

Good luck,
Dan
Oil pickup tube repair
 
simple propane would... silver soldering is the same process as for potable water pipes... no lead bearing solder for those anymore!

save the jbweld.. no place for it near the oil pump..


soundguy
 
Thanks guy's. I started using MAPP gas a few years ago when I re-modeled my kitchen and had to move alot of the water lines. WOW! what a difference over propane. I'll never solder pipes again with propane.
 
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