8N POINTS

[MICHAEL 68]

AFTER 10 MINUTES OF MOWING MY 8N WILL BOGG AND SPUTTER AND STOP, FIRES RIGHT BACK UP AND STOPS AGAIN. IF I DIS-ENGAGE THE PTO, 8N RUNS FINE. I CHANGE MY PLUGS, WIRES, COIL, REBUILT THE CARBERATOR AND STILL SAME RESULTS. I CHANGE THE RESISTOR AND IT RAN GREAT FOR 30-40 MINUTES. I THEN CHANGED THE POINTS AND CONDENSOR AND NOW I GET NOTHING, NO SPARK AT THE PLUGS. GOT JUICE TO THE COIL BUT NO SPARK. I'M NOT SURE ON HOW TO AJUST THE POINTS, ANY SUGGESTION PLEASE. THANKS

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Front or side distributor?

 

[MICHAEL 68]

THIS IS A FRONT MOUNT

 

[Bruce (VA)]

The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. Remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on. Make sure you did not ground the condenser wire to the body of the distributor. It never hurts to check for continuity w/ a meter. Point gap is .015 on all four lobes. Get the wear block on the points on the high point of the distributor cam & turn the adjusting screw until the .015 feeler gauge blade just goes through the opening of the points. Then tighten the screws. Stretch the pigtail on the coil a bit before you put it back on.


You might want to consider getting an I&T FO4 manual for the tractor.
50 Tips

 

[Dell (WA)]

Michael........I know you are excited about yer "no run" problem, but using all CAPS is considered to be "shouting", please don't shout, thank you.

Your timeframe description is "classic" weak sparkies caused by yer weaksister ignition switch. $10 (cheap) change it.........respectfully, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[MICHAEL 68]

WHEN I UNBOLT THE DISTRIBUTOR AND AFTER DISCONNECTING THE WIRE FROM THE COIL IS THERE ANY OTHER WIRES AND IS THERE ANYTHING BEHING IT THAT MAY FALL OUT OF THE TRACTOR. I HAVE THE I&T FO-4 BOOK BUT WAS STILL NOT SURE ABOUT TAKING THE DISTRIBUTOR OFF THE BLOCK. THANKS

 

[MICHAEL 68]

Sorry about the yelling, just wanted yall to here me, lol

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Nothing will fall out of the tractor. Just remove the coil & distributor cap first as I said.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Dumb question? If all CAPS is considered shouting, is all small letters considered whispering??? I'm hard of hearing!!

 

[Dunk]

{psssssttt} {jack...} {can you hear me?} {hic}

pssst jack, can you hear me.. {hic}

ok folks i guess we can talk about him all we want to..

lmao

 

[Anonymous-0]

hey dell them cheap part don't last long expecally them swithes because more then 3 keys on ring ware them out quicky ... as i found out.. hey i got draw full of them they work on left side but don't work right side.. now i use better one.. and one key no ring "

 

[Dell (WA)]

John.........why do you think I call the ignition switch a weaksister???

A competent shade tree mechanic can replace the weaksister ignition switch with a quality switch for less than $10. I did.

But for the electrically challenged sphincterly retentive, the "correct" replacement switch has 2-wires built-in to attach. Its kinda hard to miss-wire 2-wires, but its been done before.........Dell

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well, I have taken the distributor off and put it back on about 6 times now so can confirm it is a very simple job. It comes out without having to remove anything else. Just push down the arm on the coil then gently lift this up (I dont even remove the wire) - make sure you get the cork gasket and put that aside. I just lift this up and put it on top of the head of the engine. Then the two clips each side of the distributor cap. This can also gently be pushed up out of the way. There are two bolts which you can reach with a spanner remove these - the one on the left as you look at the front of the tractor just needs the fan belt pulled a bit to get it out. Then move it forward and up and out it comes to the side. What I do is now look at the position of the rotor cap and remember this as well as the underneath of the distributor - dont worry about moving things as long as you have things in a similar positon when replacing. When replacing it should just seat back down nicely - no need to force it - I then gently turn the rotor to make sure it is engaged properly.
Replacing points etc is simple and whilst you have it off remove the retaining clip and the screw to one side and check the centrifugal advance and retard - I cleaned and put some lithium grease on these. When replacing make sure you put back the coil gasket and the coil sorta feels like it does not want to seat properly but this is the pigtail spring boinging it about. Make sure the bail arm is forward (to the front of the coil) as you will not be able to get it over the nut if it is to the back.
See, only been here a week and Im a bloody expert!

 

[Anonymous-0]

When a key gets worn it will fall out of the ignition in the on position.New keys will stay put.My ignition is at least 15 years old and works fine.I have a plastic tab on the key,makes it easy to find.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I was checking over a distributor that had gotten a lot of water inside,no gaskets.I found the fiber insulator block acted like a leaky condenser when I checked it with the RC bridge.It started showing leakage at 100 volt test.This may be the cause of weak spark problems.

 

[C.bailey]

Since the first problem was about spark, let me mention one small observation I've made. On 6v systems if the batt. is not fully charged and cranking slowwwwwwwwwly, somtimes ignition doesn't always fire until you just let up on the starter switch. The 9volt batteries help this low volt problem, but can be much more expensive.