930CK & 1070 same Hyd. Problem. I'm stumped

I think a better term would be distort, I have seen many over the years where the plastic guide that the spring sets on would bow in its length and I have had many that I had to use a propane torch to blow in and soften the body so it would be soft enough to come out. John is correct in describing their function. Unless something happened to the main casting which I consider unlikely, If I was lacking pressure on one hose, I would recheck the thermals and the O ring under the thermal body.
 
I think a better term would be distort, I have seen many over the years where the plastic guide that the spring sets on would bow in its length and I have had many that I had to use a propane torch to blow in and soften the body so it would be soft enough to come out. John is correct in describing their function. Unless something happened to the main casting which I consider unlikely, If I was lacking pressure on one hose, I would recheck the thermals and the O ring under the thermal body.
Bottom line is that they were not designed to be "1 and done". Holy cow!! mEL agrees w/ me!! I'm gonna frame that paragraph!!
 
When mine went in my 1030 the second time it was because I had put the valve together wrong and the levers wouldn't return to center automatically. My grandson was driving and left the lever forward most of the time while working a field. You could tell it had gotten hot, melted might be the wrong word, but it was failed. That's when I found out about the tiny hole inbthe one small piston in there that has to be in the right spot.
 
I think we are mincing words here, I have never seen one melted, I have seen and repaired many where the plastic or nylon body is distorted from heat and protrudes out into the bore area where it is not supported, seen plenty of them, as I stated earlier but will repeat, the easiest way to remove such damaged ones is to heat the big nylon seat from the holes beside it and soften it up so it removes easier. I have never tried it but I do not see why it could not be tapped and threaded rod screwed into it so it could be pulled with a collar and washer and nut as a puller, but heat will still help.
 
I think we are mincing words here, I have never seen one melted, I have seen and repaired many where the plastic or nylon body is distorted from heat and protrudes out into the bore area where it is not supported, seen plenty of them, as I stated earlier but will repeat, the easiest way to remove such damaged ones is to heat the big nylon seat from the holes beside it and soften it up so it removes easier. I have never tried it but I do not see why it could not be tapped and threaded rod screwed into it so it could be pulled with a collar and washer and nut as a puller, but heat will still help.
I just got a chance to use a flow meter on the 1070 & I have flow & pressure on the one side,(lever pulled back) but on the other side I only have 8gpm with no load, put a load on it & the flow goes to nothing.
 
I just got a chance to use a flow meter on the 1070 & I have flow & pressure on the one side,(lever pulled back) but on the other side I only have 8gpm with no load, put a load on it & the flow goes to nothing.
I wonder if you have a cracked housing. Very rare, but I've heard of it.
 
Are you putting the lever into the float position? I think some tractors are set up with a float position on one valve. Otherwise there must be something broke or assembled wrong.
 
I don't know how the valve is set up entirely but I tend to agree with John, I have done several on Case backhoes that had a section cracked, usually they would send flow to an adjoining section when you werent operating it, maybe check the working section flow and pressure when you operate the other one? it also could be going back to tank (if you will) and no good way to test that I know of, again the backhoe valves are a bit different in how they are plumbed and mounted
 

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