955k torque shot

[todd wheelbarger]

finally got convertor completely apart and the ground support,part of the alluminum turbine, snap ring and bearing and races are chewed up! now do i buy hector's, fix mine or buy a reman? also i am taking the shift shaft out of top of trans, really loose. the valve body is out, but what about the detent, is there a spring and ball that i have to worry about? thanks bob!!!!!

 

[NCWayne]

The shaft sticking out of the top of the transmission on a Powershift should have a seal and either needle bearings or bushings (I've seen both listed for the transmission on the same model machine, just depended on the serial number) as it goes through the housing. On the inside, as a simple explination, there is a ratcheting pawl, with a spring, that provides the detent.

If your wanting to change it out you might as well go ahead and get the shaft that goes through the housing as it's most likely got grooves worn in it, along with the bearings being worn out, if your feeling alot of slop.

The biggest problem getting the assembly apart is that there is a tapered pin with a nut on the end that pulls the pin up in a matching tapered hole that keeps everything together. There isn't alot of room inside the tranmission to swing a hammer to get it to break loose, and you can't get on it straight any other way, so getting it out can be a royal PITA, especially when your also having to be careful not to mess up the threads on the end of the pin. And the threaded part will bend and break off if your not careful too. Top that off with the fact that if someone pulled it in too tight it might not come out at all. I ran into one a few months back that wouldn't come out regardless of what I tried. I wound up lining the inside of the transmission with rags and using a thin cutoff wheel to cut through the shaft so it could be taken out in two pieces. Once I got it out and could clamp the piece in a vice, it took a punch, a three pound shop hammer, and about five good licks before the pin ever came out. Basically there was no way in he!! it was gonna come out while it was in the transmission. So, in other words, unless you get really lucky you might as well plan on putting a new shaft, keeper pin, bushings, and the seal on your parts list from beginning, othersise you won't have the needed parts on hand when the origionals get messed up.

That said regardless of what your doing it's a good idea to line the inside if the transmission with rags just to keep anything from dropping down between the case and the clutch packs while your working. Just make sure you know how many you use and get them all out when your done. Good luck.

 

[todd wheelbarger]

so i see a nut and lock washer on topof trasn by the shaft, is that the tapered shaft

 

[Anonymous-0]

No, that should be a pin the spring hooks onto. When you get the top off, look at the lever that moves the valve. It has a tapered pin with a 3/8NF nut on it(9/16 Hex). Loosen nut and hit end with a hammer or punch. That should loosen the taper and it will come apart. Do both F&R and 123 shafts plus the shaft and bellcrank in the dir linkage. That will make shifting better. Make sure you get a torque for your serial# I looked at 61H and 85J and they have different parts inside.
Later Bob

 

[NCWayne]

Don't forget to go through and clean out any pump suction screens/magnets, etc in the system when you get the rest of the repairs completed. I recently had a customer that had repaired, replaced, and then repaired again, the transmission pump on his loader on the advice of other 'mechanics'. I'm guessing the first guy was right when he said the pump was bad but after that all that was wrong was the first guy neglected to clean out the pump suction screen, which was stopped completely up, after replacing the pump. If nothing else checking the screens can often give a pretty good idea as to the condition of the clutches in the transmission. If you see bug chunks then you have the potential for bigger problems later on, but if all you see is som metalic scum then you'll probably be OK.

 

[todd wheelbarger]

does that mean hecter's won't work?

 

[todd wheelbarger]

my # is 61h452

 

[Anonymous-0]

Wayne,

Great reply to that question, and very informative and step by step procedure,even the bad one you included and how you got the shaft out it two pieces... obviously you have done many.

Thanks for sharing

Will

 

[todd wheelbarger]

YES! this web site has the best group of guys, doesn't it

 

[todd wheelbarger]

hecter how can i tell if your convertor will fit, and did you take it completely apart

 

[Anonymous-0]

955k torque shot, if your torque impellor,turbine and cover are good you do't need buy them and my 955k was 85j serie and I just check my top transmission body valve and the# is 3s4297 and I was out for some days because I turne over with my loader and have some blues every were but nothing brook for me

 

[todd wheelbarger]

sorry to hear about the accident. the parts that are no good in my convertor are the ground sleeve or support,the allumium piece that is splined to the support(stator)?, the bearings on the support, bearings for the stator, sealing rings, the back cover that slides over the support has a cast iron piece that can unbolt, is also wore, but cover is ok.

 

[Anonymous-0]

955k torque shot, the 48h-61h- and 85j are 955k

 

[todd wheelbarger]

so are you saying that i will have to use some of the parts in my torque

 

[bob plumadore]

The 955K torque converters are all the same. I would buy Hectors complete and install it. and Wayne gave you some good advice on cleaning the screens.

 

[todd wheelbarger]

that is what i wanted to know. now i need your info hector

 

[Anonymous-0]

955K torque shot, my torque is complet dismantled now and the part # is 1t732,sleeve and housing from cover 1t724,shaft with sealring and bearing 1t730 and turbine with bearing 1t743 and am located STE-JULIE near MONTREAL CANADA