9600 ford

[Anonymous-0]

im looking at a 9600 tractor in pretty good shape except it slips on the low side on the high low with the floor shift buttons. Can anybody tell me what to look for on one of these thanks.

 

[FordTractorMan]

Here's what little I know from owning one - Bern, Fordfarmer, Showcrop, Old Ford Mechanic, etc., will no doubt think of things I've overlooked or just never encountered.

Solid tractor overall - strong puller - rated 135 hp, but mine dyno'd at 148. 401 engine is near bulletproof if coolant conditioner is kept in the antifreeze (available from dealer - $7.50/bottle, + or -) and you don't turn the hp up crazy high. There's about 4 feet of shift linkage that can cause problems when out of adjustment, hydraulic system is pretty simple & should lift anything you'll hook on to. Power steering uses a separate pump & filter (front left side of engine - canister looking part), should have diff lock operated by right heel, 540/1000 pto - if you have both shafts (they're easy to change - remove snap ring and swap shafts), 100 lb weights for the front, if it comes with any. Think it'll hold 10. You'll need to check the pressure on the dual power circuit for starters. I don't recall the specs - between 130 & 180 psi? Someone else could tell you for sure. Start there to investigate it slipping on low side. I'd rebuild the thing if it were mine. These tractors are easy to split if no cab on it. You could check/replace the clutch then, too, while you're in there. Dual power was superior to International's TA, so if you rebuild it, it will last a good, long time. I did mine in '97, sold tractor in '04 to a friend of mine, and it's still going strong. *Be sure to check the oil in the injection pump!* It has its own sump and has to be checked periodically. I change mine in the 8000 & 3000 every time I change engine oil. I'd say buy it as cheap as you can and don't be afraid to put a few dollars in it. I wish I still had mine...

 

[Fordfarmer]

Two things I'll add... Check to make sure it steers OK when fully warmed up. If it still has the original steering motor, and it needs work, you may have to shell out $$ for an update, as not all original style parts are still available. Also check the rear hubs. Too many of them got a little loose and wallowed out the hub on the shaft.
I kinda miss mine...but not too much. The cab on my TW 35 is soooo much nicer...

 

[matt bock]

Also I was told this is a sleeveless motor is that correct?

 

[Fordfarmer]

Yes, unless it's been rebuilt using sleeves.

 

[FordTractorMan]

It is. That's why I suggested the coolant conditioner - to help prevent cavitation of the cylinder walls. Now, it may have been sleeved at one time, you can put dry sleeves in them and go again if it ever does cavitate. Hopefully, it hasn't. Fordfarmer is right, too, in mentioning the possible loose wheel. Forgot about that - my right rear wheel was a little loose on the axle and I couldn't get the u-clamp any tighter. I think you can add shims, but I never did. I ran duals on mine, so the loose inner wheel was barely noticeable. Never had the steering issue on the 9600, but did on the 8000. I think it had about that many hours on it when I replaced the steering motor with the newer style the 8/9700 uses.

 

[sunbeam]

Sounds like the clutchs in the dual power are worn. The First one I was into was new and the factory had left out 0ne clutch. It would move in the low side but not pull a load.

 

[BMAG]

I also have a 96. Big strong pullers and very reliable. The 401 is such a reliable motor that Ford continued putting them in their tractors all the way into the much later 8830 and series. I can pull a 9 shank disk chisel up some pretty steep clay hills with mine. It will make it work for it but itll pull it. Here is a picture I took this year. I thought it looked pretty cool.

 

[showcrop]

You already have most of the info you need. I agree that the dual power problem is most likely worn discs, but it could also be worn seals. As Ford Tractor Man said check the pressure while shifting it back and forth. It should drop momentarily then come back up. 180 lbs. sounds right. The dual power is not hard to work on. They list a bunch of special tools but I didn't use any. You can get discs from Madison tractor for about 1/8 what CNH gets. The seals that wear are way at the back of the unit. They are three originally cast iron rings that were replaced with some kind of plastic. You can re-sleeve the bore that the piston rides in to make it hold pressure again. the plastic rings pick up microscopic grit that wears the bore. If I were going into one again and I were going to be working the tractor I would go to an engine rebuilder to see if I could get some cast iron rings instead of putting plastic ones in. Be sure to run a coolant package in it.