9N axle seals NOT 8N

[Ron Vale]

I am replacing my leaky axle seal (left side) on my 1940 9N with a sure seal. I found a lot of info online about 8N rear axle seals but the 9N is totally different haven’t read anywhere about the clutch and break lever assembly that comes of with the hub, but I removed it anyway. It seems easy enough to this point. I am at the point where I am cleaning all the crud that is inside the brake drum. I plan to replace the brake shoes and springs. I ordered brake shoes and brake repair kit. Can anyone help with a few questions I have?
1. How do I install the felt ring that comes with the brake repair kit? (Is it necessary?)
2. Should I do a seal and brake job on the right side while I am at it (aint broke)
3. Can I clean out the cone bearing with gas or parts cleaner before I pack it with grease?
4. What model brake tool do I need for this job?
5. Should I put gasket seal on one side, both sides, no sides of the paper hub gasket?
6. I am not real sure about shims...is that what the paper gasket is?
I have been looking through the archives and believe it or not, I can’t find this info for the 9N.
Thanks RonV

 

[Dan]

1 - Early 9N tractors did not use this felt seal - discard or return to parts house as a return.

2 - I would - many say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I prefer to do repairs on MY schedule and not when it decides to break. Your call.

3 - Sure - I use brake cleaner - but that gets expensive.

4 - Regular brake spring installer tool and a 1/2" open end wrench to adjust the cams.

5 - I don't. Paper swells and has always sealed off any leaks. If you use metal ones - I try to sandwich it in between paper shims. If all you have is metal - use sealant.

6 - Yes, as long as you are not talking about the trumpet gasket where the axle housing mates up to the differential housing - THAT is a shim AND a gasket.

HTH,
Dan

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 22:45:30 01/18/10) I am replacing my leaky axle seal (left side) on my 1940 9N with a sure seal. I found a lot of info online about 8N rear axle seals but the 9N is totally different haven’t read anywhere about the clutch and break lever assembly that comes of with the hub, but I removed it anyway. It seems easy enough to this point. I am at the point where I am cleaning all the crud that is inside the brake drum. I plan to replace the brake shoes and springs. I ordered brake shoes and brake repair kit. Can anyone help with a few questions I have?
1. How do I install the felt ring that comes with the brake repair kit? (Is it necessary?)
2. Should I do a seal and brake job on the right side while I am at it (aint broke)
3. Can I clean out the cone bearing with gas or parts cleaner before I pack it with grease?
4. What model brake tool do I need for this job?
5. Should I put gasket seal on one side, both sides, no sides of the paper hub gasket?
6. I am not real sure about shims...is that what the paper gasket is?
I have been looking through the archives and believe it or not, I can’t find this info for the 9N.
Thanks RonV

One of the best tips I have read is to install the axle less the brakes and set the bearing preload then remove and add the brake shoes then nail it shut,,, I do add a sealer to each paper shim, :twisted: ,, I differ from most as I like a tad of preload on the axle bearing if set up rite it should have some preload, your call,,, I also would not dream of doing a brake job on a 9-2N with out replacing the outer seal,,, if its not bad then where's the oil coming from,,, if its bad it will also leak wheel bearing grease,,, what happens if some gear lube does make it to the bearing,,, can happen cuzz a SS is no guarantee... I am don't put much faith in a gimmick,, your call

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

 

[wwildhorse2k]

I will never install sure seals without replacing the outer seal. The brake tool I use is shown in the pic

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 01:07:17 01/19/10) I will never install sure seals without replacing the outer seal. The brake tool I use is shown in the pic

Also you only need the tool for the 2 short sprangs,,, you can install the top with out it no problem

 

[forddoc]

replace your outer seal or you're just throwing cash out the window, want a really good inner seal find a pair of late 8n axle housings and kill 2 birds with one stone, inner seal not GIMMICK Sure Seal, and alot better lift arm pin set up. They are a direct swap for one another.

 

[Ron Vale]

Thanks for all your help. I guess the right move is to replace the outer seal also. The problem is, I dont know how to get to it or remove it. Maybe I should get the brake installation DVD from YT.
RV

 

[Hobo,NC]

I am not condemn'n folks that don't replace the outer seal just offing up the corect method on how to correctly repair it,,, your call on how you plan to attack it,,, I made a hub puller if you can not then the retaining collar and bearing can be cut out by someone with experience performing this type of job before... Its not a uncommon job in the repair world

[/img]