9n coolant on head nuts

[Bman0612]

Hey fellas I am back again. 1941 Ford 9n that hadn’t run in 10+ years that I took in just for something to do. Did a rebuild on the top end based on why it was parked and other observations. Put it back together and it won’t start due to no spark initially (troubleshooting that now) but while I traced the no spark issue I am seeing coolant coming up through 3 of the head nuts (see photo and little green pool around 2 of the blue nuts). Never seen that before. Any options to fix that without taking the head back off by any chance?

 

[HCooke]

Those studs go into the water passage. Need to remove head and studs and coat them with sealer.

 

[Non-farmer]

I didn't know it was recommended, and no one told me to goop the studs. I got lucky and none of mine have leaked. Not sure how I got away with it, but I'm not complaining.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Goop up the studs with Permatex Aviation Forma-gasket.

If you are ever not sure if a stud/bolt goes into a water jacket, clean the hole/threads and goop it up. If you have tap/dies finish cleanup with those.

 

[John Deere D]

My Neighbor has a 9N.......Teflon pipe dope on any studs that are open ended into the coolant / engine block passage....
No more leaks...........

 

[Hobo,NC]

Hey fellas I am back again. 1941 Ford 9n that hadn’t run in 10+ years that I took in just for something to do. Did a rebuild on the top end based on why it was parked and other observations. Put it back together and it won’t start due to no spark initially (troubleshooting that now) but while I traced the no spark issue I am seeing coolant coming up through 3 of the head nuts (see photo and little green pool around 2 of the blue nuts). Never seen that before. Any options to fix that without taking the head back off by any chance?

Robot or human?

 

[Bman0612]

Wtf kind of robot uploads a photo with the post and it includes a dark blue painted engine block. Obviously human

 

[Non-farmer]

Wtf kind of robot uploads a photo with the post and it includes a dark blue painted engine block. Obviously human

I suspect Hobo was victimized by the forum software's method of adding a link. I'm guessing that page asked him that question when he went there, and it transferred here when he inserted the link. The link goes to a product that could very possibly cure your problem without requiring you to pull the head again. Hobo is a wealth of good info, and in my experience, he's rarely snarky. If he decides to take a shot at someone, there's little or any subtlety involved

PS: as for the blue, I don't recall ever seeing an N that color, but I like it

 

[Bman0612]

I suspect Hobo was victimized by the forum software's method of adding a link. I'm guessing that page asked him that question when he went there, and it transferred here when he inserted the link. The link goes to a product that could very possibly cure your problem without requiring you to pull the head again. Hobo is a wealth of good info, and in my experience, he's rarely snarky. If he decides to take a shot at someone, there's little or any subtlety involved

lol! That makes sense!

 

[Hobo,NC]

link works on my end. Google

ACDelco Cooling System Sealing Tabs - 4 g 10-108​

 

[Bman0612]

link works on my end. Google

ACDelco Cooling System Sealing Tabs - 4 g 10-108​

Ok this one we can see the link name. The link didn’t work to click on it but I just googled the sealing tabs. I have never heard of these but love the premise. Do you believe dropping them in will seal the leaks on my head studs/nuts without me having to tear it apart? You will quickly become my favorite person if that were the case.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Ok this one we can see the link name. The link didn’t work to click on it but I just googled the sealing tabs. I have never heard of these but love the premise. Do you believe dropping them in will seal the leaks on my head studs/nuts without me having to tear it apart? You will quickly become my favorite person if that were the case.

I would give it a try, it will take awhile maybe weeks it will depend on how much you run it. Run the engine then Crush them up first then add. GM is not the only one that has a tab I use to use Ballkamp (napa) they do work. This was the factor repair for leaking Cadillac NorthStar engines from the factor. I have used it on leaking head bolts on a N : ).

Next time use Mad farmers recommendation it has never let me down. Why did I have leaking head bolts I used Teflon pipe dope : ( never again.

 

[Bman0612]

I would give it a try, it will take awhile maybe weeks it will depend on how much you run it. Run the engine then Crush them up first then add. GM is not the only one that has a tab I use to use Ballkamp (napa) they do work. This was the factor repair for leaking Cadillac NorthStar engines from the factor. I have used it on leaking head bolts on a N : ).

Next time use Mad farmers recommendation it has never let me down. Why did I have leaking head bolts I used Teflon pipe dope : ( never again.

Thank you good sir. I will try this and report back in a couple weeks!

 

[used red MN]

Hello Bman welcome to YT! Next time you get out your paint spitter I would recommend applying a little masking tape on the porcelain of the spark plugs. But suit yourself and fire at will. Curious just where you slice the “top end” of a flat head motor for a rebuild, above the pistons or below them?

 

[Bman0612]

Hello Bman welcome to YT! Next time you get out your paint spitter I would recommend applying a little masking tape on the porcelain of the spark plugs. But suit yourself and fire at will. Curious just where you slice the “top end” of a flat head motor for a rebuild, above the pistons or below them?

Thanks for the welcome! There was tape on
Most of the spark plugs but definitely had some gaps towards bottom of each as you saw. As for the slice - head and oil pan removed with new rings, heads, etc. And all of that just to find out that the distributor had been very incorrectly put back together by the previous owner.

 

[used red MN]

As for the slice - head and oil pan removed with new rings, heads, etc.

Sorry to “nitpick” but going ahead anyway. What does “heads” refer to? You have “one” cylinder head that the spark plugs go in, usually doesn’t need replaced. My point being mainly, if you learn and use proper terminology in your posts here the chances of you getting more accurate return information increases greatly.

 

[Bman0612]

Sorry to “nitpick” but going ahead anyway. What does “heads” refer to? You have “one” cylinder head that the spark plugs go in, usually doesn’t need replaced. My point being mainly, if you learn and use proper terminology in your posts here the chances of you getting more accurate return information increases greatly.

yeah I wasn’t looking for feedback on that part of the rebuild so much as this forum already helped me through that. The oil rings were shot among other things which led me to that portion of work but I already had discussions with this forum on those issues in an earlier post. More just focused on the issues at hand. If you want to look up my old posts where we went through that please feel free

 

[DanielW]

In addition to sealer on the head studs: Most of the head-gaskets you find for N's these days are the one-piece, aluminized (flexy-metal-feeling) ones. Which work just fine. But one common problem with them is that the stud holes aren't always cut perfectly in them. Sometimes one or two will be just a smidge off, and will bind slightly as you slide the gasket down on the studs. That may seem like nothing to worry about, but it'll cause a leaking head gasket. Even if it's only binding/rubbing a tiny bit and you can make it go down, when you tighten the head up, the gasket will 'bunch up' around the stud it was binding against and not seal around that stud.

You need the gasket to drop on easily and fully with no intervention. If a stud seems to bind or rub on one of it's holes, file that hole in the head gasket a bit until it drops all the way onto the block cleanly and easily.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Also necessary to knock down high spots on the head and deck in my opinion.

 

[John P.]

I keep the ARP thread sealant with PFTE around for my Mustang engines for studs that works great and doubles as an anti-seize.