9N Mechanic Needed

[TRS]

Team,
I have a new to me 1940 9N, just finished changing a few things and cleaning it up. I would like to have a professional give it a once over to bring it to best operating point and also fix a couple of lingering projects.
Can anybody recommend / connect me with a mechanic in the greater Charleston SC area? I am so close to finishing just need a little help to get over the last hill and make it workable for bush hoggin and small food plot work.
I changed to 12v system with the pertronix ignition and canister type coil and it starts wonderfully but I can tell it will lag under load, up hills and the 3 point system needs rebuild at the pump.

 

[HFJ]

Team,
I have a new to me 1940 9N, just finished changing a few things and cleaning it up. I would like to have a professional give it a once over to bring it to best operating point and also fix a couple of lingering projects.
Can anybody recommend / connect me with a mechanic in the greater Charleston SC area? I am so close to finishing just need a little help to get over the last hill and make it workable for bush hoggin and small food plot work.

hi TRS, and welcome to our addiction.

 

[Dwd14329]

Team,
I have a new to me 1940 9N, just finished changing a few things and cleaning it up. I would like to have a professional give it a once over to bring it to best operating point and also fix a couple of lingering projects.
Can anybody recommend / connect me with a mechanic in the greater Charleston SC area? I am so close to finishing just need a little help to get over the last hill and make it workable for bush hoggin and small food plot work.
I changed to 12v system with the pertronix ignition and canister type coil and it starts wonderfully but I can tell it will lag under load, up hills and the 3 point system needs rebuild at the pump.

I had the same problem with going up hills and my tractor would die. It wouldn't stay running unless it was level. After making recommended adjustments and installing rebuild kits I still had issues so I replaced the carberator with a better quality carb. Many will disagree but take recommendations for what its worth. It appears your tractor may be starving for fuel. First thing to check is to unscrew bolt at bottom of carb and check fuel flow with fuel valve fully open. You should get a steady flow. If not clean all 3 filters and ensure at least 4 gallons of fuel in tank when going up hills. Secondly, If you have a quality carb, make sure jet size is correct and float is adjusted 1/4" from base. If you open the carb, tilt it up and down making sure the float doesn't stick. It should move freely up and down. Clean carb out good with parts cleaner or brake fluid spray. If you know fuel system is good, check your spark at each cylinder. Should have 1/4" jump blue spark. Check voltage at coil. Should read same as battery voltage. Get back with results. That's a start. I can walk you thru steps if needed.

 

[trewgtregg]

Sorry to jump around, but the clutch pedal on m,y 9n is verry high. previous owner even elevated the seat because he couldnt raise his leg high enough to depress the clutch. my 9n shifts ok but how to fix the high reach of the clutch pedal?

 

[Dwd14329]

Sorry to jump around, but the clutch pedal on m,y 9n is verry high. previous owner even elevated the seat because he couldnt raise his leg high enough to depress the clutch. my 9n shifts ok but how to fix the high reach of the clutch pedal?

I don't see an adjustment for raising the pedal height in the manual. Just the play.

 

[trewgtregg]

well it does have a lot of play in it. i tied down the clutch to lower it because you have to depress it really far for it to actually take hold. So your suggesting there might be way to much play in it? you would have thought the origional owner would have known that.

 

[lha]

I don't see an adjustment for raising the pedal height in the manual. Just the play.

There is a clevis on the clutch rod which allows the clutch pedal adjustment by screwing the rear part into the front part. You should have a bit over an eighth of an inch free travel between the small protrusion on the left cover and the rod.

 

[TheOldHokie]

well it does have a lot of play in it. i tied down the clutch to lower it because you have to depress it really far for it to actually take hold. So your suggesting there might be way to much play in it? you would have thought the origional owner would have known that.

First thing that jumps to my mind is someone shortened the tie rod.....

TOH

 

[Eman85]

Is there something wrong with my computer or the forum? Original poster looking for a tractor mechanic in SC now people posting about clutch problems.

 

[Jim.ME]

Is there something wrong with my computer or the forum? Original poster looking for a tractor mechanic in SC now people posting about clutch problems.

Read the thread someone hijacked it, about 4 posts in, asking about their clutch.

 

[Eman85]

Read the thread someone hijacked it, about 4 posts in, asking about their clutch.

I read the thread, that is why I commented.

 

[Jim L WA]

Anyone that hijacks a thread should be ignored.
TRS, since you can install a solid state ignition and convert it to a can coil you seem to have some skills. Once you complete the fuel flow test, which should be done with the tractor pointing up hill in your case, let us know what you found.
Can't help you with a mechanic in your area. I'm more than 3000 miles away.

 

[lha]

well it does have a lot of play in it. i tied down the clutch to lower it because you have to depress it really far for it to actually take hold. So your suggesting there might be way to much play in it? you would have thought the origional owner would have known that.

If You tie the clutch down and drive it,you;ll have a slipping issue.