My friend had a cam reground for his 9N and the machine shop set it to where the cam card said too. When you start it, it sounds like the timing is retarded bad. Any ideas how one would advance the distributor in the front? I was thinking just pull the stud out completely and spin the plate inside until the timing was right, then redrill a new timing hole for the stud. What do yall think? Any better ideas?
Charles
 
Stud? It's not a stud. It's a screw that goes into the plate.

Have you just tried setting the timing on it? Each one of those little hash marks represents about 5* of timing. At full advance or retard that plate starts making contact w/ things you don't want it to touch. I don't think you're going to get much more out of it by enlarging the hole in the base to allow for more plate movement.
50 Tips
 
I can't figure out what you intend to do. First the timing marks on the cam gear and the crank gear must be lined up when cam is install. If that is correct then the only timing adjustment remaining is the 1/2 inch adjustment of the offset on the back or the distributor. If you can't get the timing set correctly with those two something is wrong.
 
Check the FO-4 manual. There is a small rectangular plate held onto the side of the distributor with a screw. Loosen the screw and move the plate to adjust your timing.
 
Thanks Bruce, this is not my tractor and it's not at my house. I was just asking if anyone had issues like he is having. I have the service manual for these tractors, I just haven't dug into it in person to see what is going on. I guess you could say I was going on "hear say". :)
Charles
 
OK, that makes sense. Print this out & take it to him; it might just be out of adjustment.

Get a meter or test light, a 21/64” drill bit & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole. (this will be your reference point for measuring) . Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the I&T FO4 manual. Rotate the shaft CCW until the straight edge is ¼" away from the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open. (get your meter/light out now & check) If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing. (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard) Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 5* of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW) and bring the shaft forwards (CCW) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.
timing003.jpg

50 Tips
 
IM HAVING THE SAME TROUBLE WITH MINE!IT SEEMS SOMEHOW THE TANG ON THE BACK OF THE DISTRIBUTOR ISNT IN TIME WITH THE ROTOR.COULD THE TANG PLATE SLID WHEN MY OLD CAM GEAR BROKE(FIBER).DO I NEED TO GET A NEW CAM AND WEIGHT SET?
 
NEVERMIND! BOY DO I FEEL STUPID! WHEN I TOOK APART EVERY THING TO CLEAN IT I GOT THE CAM OFF BY A HALF TURN ON THE SHAFT!I TOOK IT APART AGAIN AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND NOW IT IS AT 1/4" FROM THE HOLE.NOW LET ME SEE IF I CAN MAKE THIS THING RUN!!!!
 
there is a timing slider on the left side of the dist. Slide all the way down for max advance.
The points gap must be right on. The dist flyweights must move freely. Imported parts may work poorly.
also, a lean mixture will act retarded.
Other wise, the cam gear can be off one tooth.
 
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