9N will not start

MNC

Member
Update on a post last week -- I cleaned all my connections, made sure the battery was charged and tested with a battery checker, pulled the switch and checked for continuity and it checked out. Put the switch back on, tightened up all connections, hit the starter and it turned the engine over about 5 or 6 times. Tried it again and nothing. Tried the shunt between terminals of the switch and nothing. Bad switch, even though it had continuity moments before?
 
You could try and take the wires off the switch and put them together bypassing the switch and then try rolling over with the starter button.


Though you tested continuity and there was nothing, sounds like a bad switch.
 
The ignition switch and the starter button have nothing to do with each other as in the engine will spin over with the ignition switch on or off or for that matter not even in the system. Sounds like your good connection are not all that good or your battery is not all that good. A battery can test good but with out a true load test a good battery can in fact be bad
 
You can't test the starter switch with an Ohm meter. The ohm meter puts a few miliamps through the switch but it needs to carry maybe 100 amps so a bad switch will read low resistance. Test by using a volt meter. One lead on the ground battery post (not the cable clamp) and one on the starter. Hit the switch and look for at least 5 volts. If you get less than that work backwards from the starter until you find where the voltage drop occurs. If it's a connection, clean it. If it's the switch replace it. The voltage drop can also be on the ground side. Check that by moving the test lead from the battery post to a good clean ground. If you're ambitious you can pry open the starter switch and clean the contacts.
 
be clear.. what switch did you test.. starter or ignition.

so far sound slike bad starter switch or bad battery.

what does bat voltage do during starting attempt?

soundguy
 
souNdguy, I am talking about the starter switch, the switch that the negative lead off the battery attaches to one pole and then off the other pole the cable goes to the starter. The switch that is actuated by pressing on the button by the gearshift.

I'm not sure what voltage does during start attempt. What is the procedure to perform that test?
 
How old is that battery ? After a charge it reads fully charged ? But a cold crank will pull a fully charged battery down considerably , so battery age has a lot to do with it . Set a volt meter up as someone mentioned .Check your cables good . A 6volt system needs #2 cables , I"d remove them , shine the ends , scrape the PAINT/RUST off the connection areas . Bare contacts make for best performance . I also am a firm believer of smearing dielectric grease on all connectios. Also it wouldn"t hurt to have the starter, generator, & VR checked out at a local auto electrical shop. You could have a bad switch , they are cheap, but watch where you buy one .I hope something jere helps . Good luck & God bless
 
Ken, the battery was purchased at Theissens in May 2011. All cells good per hydrometer but it never seems to have 6 V. 5+ is the usual measurement.
 
I would put new cables unless they are fairly new and in good shape.I had #00 cables made for mine at a battery shop where I bought a Deka battery.I had no problem before,but when I took off the battery,I noticed the cables were ragged looking,and they had BIG cables and connectors.The tractor really turns the starter better now than before. lha
 
Understand that the battery is new. However, may I suggest that the battery be "load tested", by your friendly parts store or auto shop. It may measure 6.5 volts forever, but what does it do under a load?
I formerly handled batteries as a employee of whlse tire distributor.
Just my thought.
 
I just wanted to ask about your forum name. I was wondering if you are ex-Navy? Enlisted Navy personnel are referred to by their rate (job specialty) and rank. Being a retired MNC (Mineman Chief) I thought I would see if another was working on restoring an N-Ford.
Thanks!
Jim Phillips
 
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