A Dumb Question ?

Caryc

Well-known Member
I have rolling hills on my property and if I get sideways on a hill that's maybe 20 degrees I get a little nervous. Of course that whole tractor is tilting along with the metal seat so you really feel it. I always keep the bucket low to the ground in this situation but still get a little nervous.

I've heard it said that you could tilt a Ford 8N tractor 45 degrees and it wouldn't flip, but I've never been able to get any conformation on that.

Anybody know the real info?
 
Your gut instincts are generally on target. Don't risk an accident that, even if survivable, could lead to lifelong injury. My best friend rolled his 8N on a ditchbank when just a kid, he's suffered from it all his life (took a slab of pelvis to cover up the hole in his skull). Go up and down vertically on hills when you feel uncomfortable. There are few dumb questions, but a lot of dumb actions.
 
I do go up and down vertically on hills when possible. But in some places it's just so much easier to turn around and come back down while still on the hill. I guess I don't have to worry too much though, since I've been sideways on all the hills on my place and I've not had any trouble.

But believe me, if it makes me too nervous, I just won't do it. There are still things to think about like soft ground after a rain and so on. I don't really take unnecessary chances. I just wondered if there was any hard info as in testing of some kind ever done to find the tipping point.

I'm sure someone has done it at some time in the last 60 years.

I purchased copies of all the stock Ford manuals I could get on that tractor and none of them has anything about the center of gravity as far as the tipping angle.
 
A hill and any tractor do not mix well unless you do it right and if it feels unsafe to you then it is unsafe. Here are a few pictures of what can happen if you drive alone a hill side. This hill is/was probably less then a 30 degree angle and the tractor slide sideways into the tree. And yes I post theses pictures a lot but if it saves one persons life it is worth it
a11710.jpg

a11711.jpg

a11712.jpg

a11713.jpg
 

Yeah, not a pretty sight. It's kind of hard to tell though, I'm wondering what's holding the front end of that tractor up?
 
If you look close at the 3rd and 4th picture and where that one tree is you can pretty much tell why the front end is up in the air. The clutch pedal/floor board/ fender are hard on that tree and that in turn will not or did not let it back down. The guy slide side ways down about 10 feet or so on the hill and slide into that tree and spun 180 till the tractor stalled. Oh by the way he did go to the hospital for a busted up left knee, If he had not hit the tree that tractor would have rolled. Notice in the one picture the back tire is also off the ground and yes he had an ORC on the PTO
 
(quoted from post at 12:24:43 03/04/10) If you look close at the 3rd and 4th picture and where that one tree is you can pretty much tell why the front end is up in the air. The clutch pedal/floor board/ fender are hard on that tree and that in turn will not or did not let it back down. The guy slide side ways down about 10 feet or so on the hill and slide into that tree and spun 180 till the tractor stalled. Oh by the way he did go to the hospital for a busted up left knee, If he had not hit the tree that tractor would have rolled. Notice in the one picture the back tire is also off the ground and yes he had an ORC on the PTO

Sorry, I'm new to this forum......ORC?
 
Cary........ORC is Over Running Coupler. Necessary for brushhoggin'. Otherwize the inertia of the BH blades will back-drive yer tractor thru the PTO when you clutch to turn the corner around the barn, lite-pole, creekbank, irrigation ditch, wifes car (don't ask) $60 (cheap) .......Dell, yer self-appointed ORC safety preacher
 
Cary.......I gott too many dots or slashes in my previous link (frown) this one works. Basically the low 8N tractor is very stable as compared to popular J D trikes. I was into the radio-control used for remote testing. .......Dell
tractor rollover tests
 
(quoted from post at 13:03:08 03/04/10) Cary........ORC is Over Running Coupler. Necessary for brushhoggin'. Otherwize the inertia of the BH blades will back-drive yer tractor thru the PTO when you clutch to turn the corner around the barn, lite-pole, creekbank, irrigation ditch, wifes car (don't ask) $60 (cheap) .......Dell, yer self-appointed ORC safety preacher

What might the price of one of these be? Does it just push onto the PTO and the BH power shaft push onto it. I've never had any problems yet except for having to wait for the brush hog to spin down if I want to shift into reverse.
 
(quoted from post at 14:30:33 03/04/10) I have rolling hills on my property and if I get sideways on a hill that's maybe 20 degrees I get a little nervous. Of course that whole tractor is tilting along with the metal seat so you really feel it. I always keep the bucket low to the ground in this situation but still get a little nervous.

I've heard it said that you could tilt a Ford 8N tractor 45 degrees and it wouldn't flip, but I've never been able to get any conformation on that.

Anybody know the real info?

I know that I have in the past operated my 9N with a landscape rake on the 3pt along the bulldozed bank behind my house - pretty darn close to 45*. The fronts were set about as wide as they go , I hung out on the high side as a human outrigger, and I always wore my brown trousers. My main fear was for the well being of my house should it roll as I was so far outboard I could easily leap to safety. I was dumb, young, and agile then :roll: I am no longer young and agile so I now limit my time on that bank to the 4WD Kubby which has a much lower CG but I still wear my brown trousers.

That said rolling a tractor will ruin your day not to mention your house and quite possibly put a crimp in a substantially longer portion of your life. So if you are operating in an area that makes you uncomfortable move to someplace more comfortable ASAP and don't go back there again.

TOH
 
Cary......ORC's come in 4-virgins. 1-1/8F, 1-3/8F, 1-1/8M, 1-3/8M. It should be intuitively obvious that the F must match yer PTO and the M must match yer brushhogg. Modern PTO's are 1-3/8M and therefore need a 1-3/8F coupler input. and I told you the COST is $60 (cheap) .......Dell
 
My JD "60" 3 wheeler is the most stable unit ever made !! Especially when it"s in the shop under it"s dust cover ---grin. I did have one "event" years ago while plowing snow at the farm, managed to hit a "nubbins" and ended up with the front and right rear off the road at about a 45/, very exciting, took me 6 hrs. with a chain block, chains(to a local tree or 2) a whack of cables and desparation, but, I drove it out !!
 
(quoted from post at 13:59:27 03/04/10) Cary......ORC's come in 4-virgins. 1-1/8F, 1-3/8F, 1-1/8M, 1-3/8M. It should be intuitively obvious that the F must match yer PTO and the M must match yer brushhogg. Modern PTO's are 1-3/8M and therefore need a 1-3/8F coupler input. and I told you the COST is $60 (cheap) .......Dell

You lost me with the "F" and "M" Could you maybe explain a little. I hate to be a pain, but as I said I'm new here.

OK, hold up a minute. I'm guessing you are referring to male and female.

My PTO has an extension on it (about 6") The splines are 1 3/8"

So if I'm reading you right I need a 1 3/8" female with a 1 3/8" male on the other end of it?
 
There is not a published figure for the rollover. Mostly because there are way too many variables.

1. The 8N has 8 different settings for the width of the rear tires, the widest at 76" center to center gives the greatest side slope capability.

2. The amount and type of ballast used in the rear tires. It used to be common to find the N tractors with calcium chloride in the rear tires, adding nearly 200 lbs per tire. Guys down South frequently used water for ballast, giving about 2/3 the weight of chloride. Then there was an option of using steel weights in the centers of the wheel discs at about 120 lbs each. More ballast on wide set wheels gives better roll protection.

3. The width of the front wheels. As they are set wider, the slope angle can be greater.

4. The type of implement being pulled. A 3 pt implement (transferring weight to the back wheels of the tractor) helps in lowering the overall center of gravity. But a tall implement like a boom pole carrying a load makes the possibility of roll over worse. Pulling a 2 wheel trailer can make it more or less stable depending on how the load is distributed on the trailer. Pulling a 4 wheel wagon or a tow behind implement can make the the roll over more likely.

5. Soil type and wetness of crop being driven over affects roll possibility. Soft soil is more compacted by the downhill tire print and thus the tractor is tilting at a greater angle than the slope. The wetness of the grass or crop can cause a side slip to begin which may result in a roll over.

6. Tire pressure. Low pressure can increase the likelyness of roll over, as the tractor's weight shifts a bit more to the outside of the downhill tire print.

7. Irregularities in the ground can change a risky situation to instant disaster. An underground gopher colony (tunnels) collapsed beneath the weight of the downhill tire in a hay field we had done for years...almost caused a roll over. If the up side rear tire hits a gopher (or mole) hill, the tractor is at greater risk.

I could continue, but I think you get the point. There is no way the manufacturer can predict all these (and more conditions), so no figure for roll over angle is given.

Most importantly, if you sense the high side beginning to lift (roll beginning) then immediately STEER the front of the tractor DOWNHILL. If you turn to go uphill, it WILL go over. If you do nothing it probably (90%?) will roll over.

If you really must mow a steep hillside, mow only going straight downhill. Take the long way around to come back to the top driving only up a lesser slope. Better yet, stay the heck off the steep places, you will live a longer life. 40 years ago, I had mowing jobs (with 8N) along RR track embankments. My wife had no clue what risks I took to bring home good money. I sure wouldn't take those chances now!!

Like the other guys said, if in doubt, don't do it! We want you to be able to participate in this board for many years to come.

Paul in MN
 
I have a lot of fun with my John Deere MC. Threw a track on a hill side one time. Lots of fun!!!I,m looking at another 8n to keep out of trouble!!!
 
5-10 years ago I mowed ditches for our local county highway department and spent all day long on a leaning tractor. I mowed some very dangerous places and, quite frankly, am surprised I never got hurt. That being said, I got very comfortable with using the tractor on hillsides. The problem is, even though I was comfortable with it, my feelings were misleading. You can feel ok about how the tractor feels but the ground is such a huge factor. Your tractor can be biting well and then just hit one soft spot and you could be in a world of hurt. I was in that situation many times and it was only because of the bat wing mower on the topside keeping my center of gravity uphill that I remained upright. Even after all of that experience mowing hillsides of every soil and ground type, I wouldn't trust my 8N on much of anything. No counterweight + no roll bar + no seat belt = make sure you take it easy.
 
I hear you on the condition of the ground being a big part of it. My rear tires are filled with liquid. I don't know which type and my rims have wheel weights on them so I guess that helps a little on the center of gravity anyway.

Also easier to sink into soft ground, I guess. :cry:
 
(quoted from post at 21:32:13 03/04/10) Cary.......I gott too many dots or slashes in my previous link (frown) this one works. Basically the low 8N tractor is very stable as compared to popular J D trikes. I was into the radio-control used for remote testing. .......Dell
tractor rollover tests

Interesting data Dell, goes to show that it doesn't take much slope to make our tractors unstable enough to want to tip.

Also shows that trikes are made for flat land only.
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:27 03/04/10) Cary......ORC's come in 4-virgins. 1-1/8F, 1-3/8F, 1-1/8M, 1-3/8M. It should be intuitively obvious that the F must match yer PTO and the M must match yer brushhogg. Modern PTO's are 1-3/8M and therefore need a 1-3/8F coupler input. and I told you the COST is $60 (cheap) .......Dell

They're only virgins until they're mounted the first time! :lol:

JK
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top