a leaky fuel line fitting?

[Tony in Mass.]

Any quick easy... free fixes out there? Basicly the compressing fitting slipped off the thick wall pipe, and hard to get at since the bend is so close the nut can't fall away to speak of. JB weld? PVC tape? other ideas?

 

[Masseynut(Australia)]

When you say a "compression" type fitting, do you mean a brass olive? If so, remove the "olive", and replace it with a rubber "ferrule". If you dont have any of these, cut a 1/4" length of rubber or plastic tubing around the same size as the O.D. & I.D. of the original brass olive, and tighten the nut up onto it.
When fitted, the rubber ferrule "conforms" to the shape of the original pipe, no matter how out of shape it is,
hope this helps,
Evan.

 

[Bill Brox]

Tony, what pipe are you talking about ? Is it the high pressure injector pipes, then a rubber fix will not hold. For those you need a silver soldered special end.

If you are talking about the other low pressure pipes, especially the return pipes, a rubber piece can fix it.

Bill

 

[Tony in Mass.]

High pressure one Bill. Very thick steel pipe, thin copper or brass.... as Evan calls it- an olive? was pressed at the end. I believe when it slipped off, I needed to put it back exactly as it came off... I doubt that happened. I don't know how many tries this will allow before I really mess it up. This is the last repair to get the Standard running better.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Tony,

I had one of the fuel lines crack going into the injector on my MF65. (this tractor has the Perkins engine it) I could find replacement line for all but the one I needed. I found a local shop that repair these engines. They had saved injector line from scrapped out engine but none that fit mine. I found some lines with ends and sections bent similar to mine.I used a tube cutter and furreled brake line fitting to make a repair. I was told the length of these injector lines are all the same length so that they time out properly with the engine.

 

[Tony in Mass.]

Oh I like that idea! Ozzie ingenuity. But, as Bill is concerned- real rubber? nylon? Will it hold up to the pressure and chemical rot? Worth a try for now to get her hitting on all 4, as long as it doesn't go inboard into the injector needle eh?

You are giving me some ideas about the extra little O rings in the injector pump rebuild kit... one on each side of the 'olive'? And they certainly would be strong against pressure, and certified fuel proof. I will report back as soon as I can get at the project. Ta mate!

 

[Tony in Mass.]

Nothing wrong with the steel line here, but the cooper 'olive' as nut calls it. And yes, it makes sense all the lines must be exactly the same length. When I had the pump appart, it was obvious the inlets were all at 90 degrees. And my high pressure lines aren't flared, just these cooper rings at each end. I don't know which I would prefer to fight!

 

[Anonymous-0]

My lines have the furrels formed on the end of them.
Can you straighten the line out and rebend them to give yourself a little more straight length for your compression nut and furrel to seat. Another thought would be to mount the trouble end first and then the opposite after you've got it set.

 

[Bill Brox]

Tony, if this was my tractor I would think that if I put something rubber on the ends of the high pressure injector pipes, when I start the engine, I will hear a pop, and have diesel all over the engine, and in my teacup I have brought with me to enjoy, and the cookies on the plate.... It is after all 120 bars or so in pressure, or 1700 psi.
I don't think the brass fittings is good enough even, I would have steel, like on a hydraulic pipe.

Tony, do you have a metal lathe ? Or a friend who has ? Then you could turn one from a 3/8" bolt or something. Or maybe a hardware store have some hydraulic olives that is so small.


Bill

 

[Bill Brox]

Sorry, 135 bar...

 

[Bill Brox]

oh dear... I can not type anything right today.

Working pressure 130 ats.

New installed nozzle, 135 ats.

 

[Masseynut(Australia)]

Tony,
if you can track down your local "Sparex" supplier, he can get you a rubber olive kit. Part number is S.42084. Retail price here in Oz is AU $61.60 These kits contain 100 olives in four different sizes used on the majority of English fuel systems. Gotta feeling their gonna come in handy, if you continue the purchase the class of tractor that you've shared with us recently. LOL!

 

[Tony in Mass.]

Here is what I am fighting. I made maters worst this evening, I will either keep turning it like the hands of a clock, or try to have this one fixed or replaced.

 

[Masseynut(Australia)]

Hmmm, Bill is right, not gonna fix THAT with a ferrule. That will be a repair or re-make at a diesel shop. Unless you can "find" a replacement.

 

[2tractors]

Tony, GOOD NEWS, saw it on tv just the other night,it's a spray can that stops leaks, even has some dip sh!!s that swear by it. NO NO I don't believe it will work, don't want to get demoted.

 

[Inno]

(quoted from post at 07:23:22 10/21/11) Tony, GOOD NEWS, saw it on tv just the other night,it's a spray can that stops leaks, even has some dip sh!!s that swear by it. NO NO I don't believe it will work, don't want to get demoted.

Is that the one with the screen door at the bottom of the boat? How could it NOT work? :lol: :lol:

 

[Anonymous-0]

Tony,

If the furrel is loose it is a problem like I had. My line was cracked right at the point where the furrel was formed on the pipe. First attempt was to weld it with no luck, then I found the lines that had similar ends and bends that I cut and spliced with the brake line compression fitting. Can you take the furrel off? Maybe a brake line furrel will work for you.

 

[Tony in Mass.]

Yes. It comes off with a few taps, that is half the problem, the position is the other half, unless it is just too worn out.
I must fix it myself, I just came back from the only diesel repair shop for hours around, and he said it would take a week to get a new line with ferrels and nuts, it would be the exact length- but in a straight line. I would have to put all the tight compound curves in it myself. That sounds like a way for me to ruin a brand new $50 part. I'll keep dealing with this one....

 

[Anonymous-0]

Are the end a special or is it just compressed into the shape in your photo? I used a standard automotive brake line fitting to splice mine together. The brass furrel compress around the line to make the seal and that was some 200 hours of run time. Maybe some heat to make the line bendable and reform that section to get yourself more straight pipe going into the fitting.

 

[samn40]

Tony try some solder on it,you have nothing to loose,and you seem to be a lucky skin with everything else!
Sam