AC 180 gas want to put a 301 diesel 2900 series in

[Randy Liable]

Looking for advice inregards to installing a 301 diesel 2900 series out of a L2 gleaner

 

[used red MN]

Hello Randy welcome to YT! I would suggest you post this on the Allis Chalmers forum in the manufacturers section. Click on the red tractor logo at the top of the page and scroll down you will find it.

 

[J Wendt]

I had a M2 with that engine, always liked. Thought it would be great in a 2510 I have , but that would be an engineering nightmare way above my paygrade or pocket book.

 

[Randy Liable]

Chuckling, thanks for the suggestion

 

[Randy Liable]

Where are you located? I am in Regina area Canada

 

[J Wendt]

Rochester ,MN area

 

[DanielW]

I thought of doing the same thing with my 180 gas. There was a discussion on the Allis Chalmers Forum website that talked about what was required for this swap. Unfortunately this new YT website won't let you post a link to another forum for some reason, but here's what was said:

"Should bolt right in as far as back. Radiator will need to be moved along with some hose and lines. Will have to drill holes in frame for front mount. If out of combine, need to weld angel iron to front plate. Be a lot of small idem to take care of."

I never ended up doing the conversion myself. The G2500 gas engines they used in the 180's and 190's are phenomenal, smooth-running engines - just a little thirsty. Rebuild parts are scarce to come by for the gassers, but not completely impossible. Unless the 180 is a primary work tractor and/or the the engine is worn out, the cost/effort to do the swap will probably never be recovered. If the gas engine is worn out or you're doing it for fun, however, it's be a neat conversion.

If you do swap it out, don't scrap the gas engine - I'd like to have one as a backup.

 

[Randy Liable]

My engine was seized when I bought the tractor , I got it loose and spinning over but it had next to no compression. I didn't think it would pay to overhaul...parts were pricey

 

[Randy Liable]

I realize the 301 2800 seriez naturally aspirated engine is the easiest replacement but I can only find 301 2900 series which are turbo and oil cooler which is fine but alot more work plus I'm not sure if the hydraulic pump will bolt up under the alt with that plate or not.

 

[DanielW]

Hmm, I wonder what condition the bottom end is in. If it was just seized from sitting and has low compression due to the rings and/or valves being stuck, the bottom end might be tight, and it might not take much to get it back up to snuff. I'd be tempted to at least try improving it in its current state, even if it's only temporary. That way you'll at least get a chance to test out all the other functions/components on the tractor before putting a pile of time/money into a conversion. Hydraulic pump, power director, tranny jumping out of third gear, pto clutch pack (if it's the later hydraulic-engage style), etc. I'd want to know all that was working well before I went to the work of swapping engines.

This is a bit of a shade-tree fix, but I'd be tempted to soak the cylinders in a good penetrant (like the Delco stuff GM sells or Sea Foam's Deep Creep): Use a full can to soak the cylinders by spraying all around through the plug holes, let it sit for 4 or 5 days, soak it again, let it sit for a few more days, do it once more, let it sit, and then fire it up and let it burn up all the carbon out and free itself up (maybe check the valve clearance too). Very crude, but it's worked for me a few times when I've hauled home stuff with seized or low compression engines. You might be surprised at how well it frees itself up and how much compression is restored after a few hours of run time. Worst case is you'll be down the cost of a couple cans of penetrating oil. Maybe pop the valve cover off and spray all the springs/stems down with penetrant as well, because they're probably sticking a little if it's sat for a while.

My brother yarded home an old Cockshutt 540 a couple of years ago in similar shape. Zero compression on two cylinders and no spark. None of us wanted to put any money or time into it. We did the valve and cylinder soak, replaced the condenser, and now it might be the best running tractor on the place: Fires up instantly in even the coldest weather and purrs like a kitten. In that case it was sticking valves that were causing the low compression. It sure blew a lot of carbon/soot out of the stack when it first fired up.

 

[Randy Liable]

Yes I did all those things at the time ...I haven't done anything with it for about a year but yes I had similar concerns not knowing if clutch transmission etc is any good.
I never got it to run it would firer alittle bit and kinda run on a couple cylinders.
I then checked compression on the engine and it basically was nothing that's when I kinda gave up on it .

 

[Janicholson]

Have you taken the valve cover off and looked fro displaced pushrods, or bent pushrods, that is the direction to go. Stuck valve cause zero compression faster than all other reasons. Don't give up yet. Jim

 

[Randy Liable]

Thank you for the advice .
No I never pulled the valve cover ...it has a loader on it so alot to remove .
But I will do that when it warms up .
Thank you very much I really appreciate your advice .

 

[Janicholson]

Thank you for the advice .
No I never pulled the valve cover ...it has a loader on it so alot to remove .
But I will do that when it warms up .
Thank you very much I really appreciate your advice .

A endoscope (cheap on Ebay) that hooks to your Smart phone is really useful for looking into cylinders to actually see valves staying open. Not while turning the engine, but after turning some!!! Also good for other remote viewing from wires in a hidden place to clogged drains! Jim

 

[DanielW]

I could be wrong, but if you haven't pulled the valve cover off I'd bet dollars to buttons you have sticking valves or bent/out-of-place push rods. Bad rings will cause lower compression, but still show up ok-ish on the compression tester. If you have almost no compression, that's almost certainly valve related, and thus hopefully an easier fix. Pretty common for valve stems to gum up and stick after they've been sitting for a while.

 

[Randy Liable]

I have a camera so can go down and check also

 

[DanielW]

It shouldn't be too bad with the loader - you have to lift off the hood/cowling, but you shouldn't have to touch anything on the loader. You can actually take the valve cover off without removing the hood, but it's a little finicky and you won't be able to see things too easily - especially with the loader arms in the way. It might give you enough room to feel under there and spray the springs/stems down with penetrant and work them a little to try freeing them up, but I think I'd opt for taking the hood off so you can see what's what. Shouldn't take more than half an hour or so to get the hood and valve cover off.

 

[Randy Liable]

Yes your right ...I will take the hood off and take a peek ..
But I will wait for a warmer day