air compressor

Motor should have a diagram inside the cover plate... Needs a dual side pressure switch to switch on and off both sides of the 220v. Did that conversion on mine, years ago. Came factory wired for 110v, and was always a problem, blowing fuses, damaging pressure switch contacts. When wired for 220, no more problems. 2hp motor.
 
First you have to change the wiring in the motor to 220.
The pressure switch has to have 4 contacts - 2 for motor, 2 for the line.

You legally need 4 wires from the breaker box. 2 are hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground.

The breaker value is lower when running 220.

Look at the info plate on the motor for the specs

What is the HP rating of the motor?
 
Roby, Maxx is striaght on. The only thing I would add is to verify that your motor was intended for either 110 or 220. Not all motors are able to be operated on either. Other than that, what Maxx said.
 
Does the plate on the motor have ampere ratings for both 110 and 220?
If not it is just a 110 motor.

If it will run 220 a 20A double breaker will be fine.
You can get away with 12 gauge wire but I would recommend at least 10 gauge.

Edit: I forgot to add NEVER put a breaker in that is rated higher than the ampere rating of the wire.

14 gauge is good for 15A
12 gauge is good for 20A
10 gauge is good for 30A
 
Roby,

I'd suggest you look at the owners manual for info on wiring the motor for 220.
Or if you have a knowledgeable friend invite him or her over to give you a hand.
 
Because of the way motors are being over rated in horse power I don't trust hp rating, you need to go by the amp rating at 220 volt. There no way to know what size wire is needed without know it's full load amps. Plus you need to know how far the compressor is from the panel.

I truly doubt you need a neutral wire. Just 2 hots and a ground.

Dusty
 
Like Dusty said, look at the amps, not the HP. I was duped that way on a Crapsman taable saw and I learned a lesson the hard way. Saw was advertised as 3HP but it really was 1.5HP and was underpowered. 3HP was some theoretical figure, not actual pulling power.When I finally looked at the plate on the motor a few years later I found out it listed the amperage of a 1.5 HP but I wasn't smart enough to look at it. It was wired at 110 and I used it that way for quite awhile so it could be portable but when I finally put it in a permanent place I changed it to 220. On this particular saw it was an easy job and it did give the little 1.5HP a small amount of more snap. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 14:18:42 11/30/11) Because of the way motors are being over rated in horse power I don't trust hp rating, you need to go by the amp rating at 220 volt. There no way to know what size wire is needed without know it's full load amps. Plus you need to know how far the compressor is from the panel.

[color=red:3f212af076]I truly doubt you need a neutral wire. Just 2 hots and a ground.[/color:3f212af076]

Dusty
Dusty,
This is true, but if you noticed what I said it needs 4 to be legal by code.
I'm not going to tell someone to do it with 3 wires.
I also think he needs to get physical help as it seems he has no idea about doing this.


Maxx
 
Hello Jr. Roby,
First of all, the voltages are 120V and 240V.
When you calculate amps you need to use these figures, not 110V nor 220V.
You asked if a 30 amp breaker would work for the 3.7 amp draw...........NO.
Here is an example. Say you have a motor that draws 10 amps, the breaker for that circuit would be 15 amps, or 50% above max draw.
So you see A 30 amp breaker on a 3.7 amp draw would be way too much.
Guido.
 
Yes. They are L1, L2, neutral and ground.

220V is measured from L1 to L2.

L1 to Neutral is 110V as is L2 to Neutral.
 
(quoted from post at 11:55:44 11/30/11)
(quoted from post at 14:18:42 11/30/11) Because of the way motors are being over rated in horse power I don't trust hp rating, you need to go by the amp rating at 220 volt. There no way to know what size wire is needed without know it's full load amps. Plus you need to know how far the compressor is from the panel.

[color=red:43f5c3eb75]I truly doubt you need a neutral wire. Just 2 hots and a ground.[/color:43f5c3eb75]

Dusty
Dusty,
This is true, but if you noticed what I said it needs 4 to be legal by code.
I'm not going to tell someone to do it with 3 wires.
I also think he needs to get physical help as it seems he has no idea about doing this.


Maxx

Maxx, I'm rusty on code, please refresh me. I've never known the code to require a neutral where it was not used.

In case of a duel voltage it always was if 120 volts 1 hot, and neutral and ground. if 240 volts 2 hots, and ground. Unless you are using 120 volt for control or maybe a 120 volt light.

Dusty
 
Maxx, for motor loads, conductor sizes and overcurrent protection are determined by NEC Article 430. Very different from general purpose circuits. I can devise a theoretical scenario for a motor that would use #12 wire and 60 amp breaker and be fully compliant with the NEC. For the compressor, follow the manufacturers instructions. If those are not available, follow Article 430. It will take some time to digest Article 430.
 
Good to see 110 and 220. Somebody here is as old as me. Get electrician to hold your hand before something happens. Seriously. Dave
 
Good to see 110 and 220. Somebody here is as old as me. Get electrician to hold your hand before something happens. Seriously. Dave
 
The pressure switch needs only one set of contacts, even for 240 volts. But having and using two sets is OK. For 240 volts, a neutral is not needed. A neutral is required for 120/240 volts, which is used by some items such as electric clothes dryers and electric ranges.
 
if you still at this get you electrician and be done with it. a guy can mess with alot of things and not really know what he doing but not when it comes to electricity. i wired mine 220 and i have a shutoff switch tied into the pressure switch so i can shut it off when leave shop or on phone etc if i have to. it bleads off also so no start up issues. good luck
 
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