Allis WC stroker question

[Anonymous-0]

Me and one of my buddies pull WC's against eachother. Both of us run the same amount of horsepower. Engines have 4 1/8" flat tops with the stock 4" stroke. Been thinking of building maybe a 5" stroker engine. Looking for some insight on whether the stock WC engine block would handle the power, or if we should look for a D-17 block for extra strength? Would stock rods be able to handle that kind of power? What type of piston would you run? What kind of power may it make with a custom cam? Thanks for any input guys!

 

[Anonymous-0]

the block and rods will hold the power . i just dont know if the 2 3/8 rod journal at 5 inches of stroke will clear the cam . i know it will with canted rod caps but allis didnt produce them.

 

[b o b]

5 inch crank will clear the the cam

 

[mo-ac]

a 5 in. stroke will clear the cam. in fact a 5 1/4 will ciear by grinding the end of the rod bolts a little. you will have to grind off the sides of the block and oil pump bracket also. should make around 65 hp. with flat top pistons.

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 17:55:14 01/25/10) a 5 in. stroke will clear the cam. in fact a 5 1/4 will ciear by grinding the end of the rod bolts a little. you will have to grind off the sides of the block and oil pump bracket also. should make around 65 hp. with flat top pistons.

Thats good to know I have always reduced the rod journal size. 2 inch rod up to 5.800 6 inch gets less than 2 inch in my shop. by reducing the 2 3/8 to a 2 inch journal you can pick up .3375 inches of stroke just by offset grinding. I would also think 5 1/4 stroke 280 cubic inches with some compression would yeild more than 65 horses I would think close to 90 hp.

 

[Vic S]

I think the old block is fine, but I like the later block. They are fairly easy to find from a E gleaner combine plus I like the taller head. Look back a ways and all of this, has been discussed. I would get my crank ground to honda specs, becouse that ia what nascar stroker cranks are. so no set up fee to get them made, My neighbor has a lot of diffrent lenghts. I also think you need a dish in your piston, like came in them, A 460 ford smog piston is about right. 4.46 I think. you can use 4020D sleeves and bore them out. will have to bore out your block, I wouldn't worry about the bottom O-ring. just pour a can of block sealer in the block before you put the head on. If you are going to do it 6.25 is about right on the stroke. But doing it on the cheap. Buy as high a compression set of 175 pistons and sleeves you can. then stroke is to 5 in use all your old stuff. I have seen some of these motors run real good. good luck.

 

[Vic S]

I should have said rods to honda specs

 

[Anonymous-0]

Use Farmall H rods, very little work needed....

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 21:10:14 01/25/10) I think the old block is fine, but I like the later block. They are fairly easy to find from a E gleaner combine plus I like the taller head. Look back a ways and all of this, has been discussed. I would get my crank ground to honda specs, becouse that ia what nascar stroker cranks are. so no set up fee to get them made, My neighbor has a lot of diffrent lenghts. I also think you need a dish in your piston, like came in them, A 460 ford smog piston is about right. 4.46 I think. you can use 4020D sleeves and bore them out. will have to bore out your block, I wouldn't worry about the bottom O-ring. just pour a can of block sealer in the block before you put the head on. If you are going to do it 6.25 is about right on the stroke. But doing it on the cheap. Buy as high a compression set of 175 pistons and sleeves you can. then stroke is to 5 in use all your old stuff. I have seen some of these motors run real good. good luck.

I personally dont like dished pistons for this reaon the first compression ring land is to far down and gas gets trapped betwween the wall of the piston and cylinder . The only time this fuel is burned is by the visible flame from the stack when its pushed out into the exhaust from the exhaust stroke. I would rather have all the fuel mix as close to the top of the piston as possible so that it can create as much compression and as large explosion to make the most mechanical force be delivered to the crank shaft .Plus flat tops are lighter and create less frictional drag on the cylinder when dealing with 4 11/16 to 4 3/4 bores a piston is heavy by size any way weight reduction is a plus. Everyone has their individual right to differ thats just my reasoning for liking the flat tops that came in them originally over the power crater design.

 

[Agco Avenger]

A 5"-5.5" stroke is easy. Your WC block is fine for this application. You only need to use Gleaner blocks for max effort engines. Use a Farmall H rod and pick a flat top piston that gets to the right compression height. You want the piston down in the cyl .4" to .5" at TDC. 400 chevy pistons will work and are available in several compression distances. I used to run a 4.125" by 5.5" engine, it had over 80 HP at 1650 RPM. It had a good cam and some port work done.

 

[WD2]

you can also run a wd45 crank which gives you 4 1/2 inch stroke. and you can use all your old stuff back.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks for the input guys! I've built a couple good running engines, but haven't been into the Allis engines extensively as of yet. With the competition that we pull against, 65 horsepower would be a good margin to work with. We have contemplated on running the WD-45 crank and workin on jacking the compression up but we figured if we were gonna put the money into a motor that we would go at least 5" on the stroke. Once again thanks guys!