Almost melted solenoid

Two weeks ago I completely rewired my Ford 2000 4 cylinder 12 volt system. There is no push button on the tractor at all, so it uses the car-type key switch and a four post solenoid.

Every part was new. The solenoid is the TISCO 311006.

My 960 had been converted to the same type of key switch before I bought it, so I used the 960 as a model and wired the 2000 exactly as the 960.

The 960 starts in two seconds or less and has for a couple of years.

On the day I rewired the 2000 I started it a few times and drove around a bit.

Today was the first time I have touched the 2000 since the re-wiring and found the 2000 was completely dead. The solenoid was nearly melted at the large post where the + battery post connects to the solenoid. From the same post on the solenoid I had a 10 gauge wire going to the ammeter.

The connection at the ammeter was not burned at all but the connection was loose, like I probably overlooked it during the re-wiring process.

So far, I have not found anything else different from the 960.

Could that loose connection cause the severe damage to the solenoid?

Thanks for any advice.
 
A loose connection will increase resistance, more resistance means heat, the more resistance the more heat OR it sparks or arcs as contact is made and broken arcs are also hot you can melt steel with arcs.
 

If the tractor was not running when the melt occurred I'd say no. I'd say no anyway! I'd say it was more like a short to ground in the solenoid itself.
 
i'd have to agree with larry... a melted solenoid would take enough current to menlt that 10ga wire to the ammeter if there had been an issue there.. I'd look at the solenoid tself.. unless there are obvious other wire issues. or the ammeter is grounded..e tc..
 
I have a 1963 4 cyl 2000D. It has an exposed tranny switch that provides the ground to the solenoid when you push the button when you are in N only.

Among other things I also have a '65 3000D which also has a tranny N switch, even though it is a key start and you can't see the switch because it is not exposed like the 2000 but it none-the-less works. You have to be in N for the (twist to activate) key to run the starter.

To burn up the solenoid it had to be on while the engine was running and as such the starter was running while the engine was running.....both bad news. Only way the other wire you mentioned could have caused a problem wouldn't be from a loose connection, rather a power path from 12v to tractor chassis....ground.

Mark
 
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