Ammeter on JD60

[UncleCarl]

Okay, my Bible devotion today was Proverbs 19:2 which says don't be hasty....I happened to think of it when I was changing an ammeter gauge on my 1953 JD60. (Regular tricycle row-crop, S/N 6023065-Gas engine) I would ASSUME the new gauge goes in like the old one-same wires to same terminals. But when looking at both, I noticed the new gauge (purchased at local automotive place) had positive and negative marked. Old one does not. Soooo instead of just 'throwing it on' I figured I better ask you guys. With the tractor being a positive ground do I have to figure anything out to ensure this is correct? As you look at the original ammeter from the backside, the left terminal had a red wire going to it and the right terminal had a white wire going to it with a black wire that went back to the ignition switch. Everything seemed to work fine when it was running I just don't wanna goof it up. Can't find a wiring diagram which says which one is positive or negative. Battery is currently disconnected. Thoughts?

 

[Bob]

Connect the wires as they were before. If the ammeter reads backwards, switch the wires between the two posts.

No harm will be done either to the meter or the electrical system of the tractor.

 

[UncleCarl]

Whew....cool. Way too easy then...I was worried I'd fry something. Thanks Bob

 

[James Howell]

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]With the tractor being a positive ground do I have to figure anything out to ensure this is correct?[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]"

No.

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Lamps and Wiring[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note the original electrical system is POSITIVE ground.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Can't find a wiring diagram which says which one is positive or negative[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]INSTRUMENT PANEL AND WIRING[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note the POSITIVE (green) and NEGATIVE (red) terminals on the backside of the ammeter.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]As you look at the original ammeter from the backside, the left terminal had a red wire going to it[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]INSTRUMENT PANEL AND WIRING[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note Key 5 was a white wire from the ammeter to the NEGATIVE battery post.

The red wire on your tractor connects to the left, POSITIVE terminal on the new ammeter.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]and the right terminal had a white wire going to it[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]INSTRUMENT PANEL AND WIRING[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note Key 10 is the white wire from the ammeter to the BAT terminal on the voltage regulator.

The white wire on your tractor connects to the right, NEGATIVE terminal on the new ammeter.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]with a black wire that went back to the ignition switch[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Lamps and Wiring[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note the black wire from the ammeter to the BAT terminal on the ignition switch.

The black wire on your tractor connects to the right, NEGATIVE terminal on the new ammeter.

Hope this helps.

 

[John T]

I agree you wont fry anything if its wired in reverse its just the meter would read "bass ackwards" in which case you swap wires side to side. The SUPPLY side is what gets hot battery voltage perhaps being wired to the hot ungrounded battery post on some tractors or on others at the starter switch or solenoid where the big battery cable is attached. Its other LOAD terminal is what feeds loads like lights and ignition PLUS wires to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator.

John T

 

[UncleCarl]

Thanks James. I am really glad you posted the pics and diagrams. They'll help tremendously.

 

[Mark-Ia]

Could have gotten one from Jerry Trcka at Evergreen Restoration that would be correct for your 60.

 

[UncleCarl]

Thanks John. That's really good info to know. I'm going to print this stuff out and keep it with my manuals.

 

[UncleCarl]

You know it's funny you would mention that. I purchased each individual gauge from STP at 30-35 a piece. Then the other day I found a complete set with oil pressure line and every thing else at Harbor Freight! For $18! I'm not worried about originality, just function. So the STP part money will be put towards a radiator core.