Another Case 530 Serial Number Issue

[Joe (Wa)]

Leave the foot clutch engaged. The hand clutch needs to be disengaged

Maybe I am not understanding your pin problem. Look at my pic, the adjustment locking pins are spring loaded, #1 pin shows to be in engaged in a slot on the adjustment block. The #2 pin is sticking out further showing that it is on a space between two locking block slots. You are only going to pull out one pin that is locking the adjustment, it could be either one of the 2 pins. When you turn the input gear about 10* the pin that you are holding out is now between two slots on the adjustment block and the other pin has dropped into a slot locking the adjustment block. You need to pull the pin that just dropped into the slot to continue with the adjustment

As far as I can tell I can't see anything that makes it other than an early 530 tractor. It is actually a model 540 utility tractor not an Ag or row crop , If you had a model/serial nr tag it would labelled 540 but still designated 530. Case 530 parts manuals list 540 as utility tractor and the Ag tractor as General Purpose. The steering gear in your pic was first installed at serial nr 8191147 so that will make it between 1962 and sometime in 1965.

 

[Crinton]

Thanks, Joe. I didn’t get out to the workshop yet - yard/garden jobs are taking longer than I expected!

Yes, I understand what you are saying about the pins and pin locking setup. I’m anxious to get on it but it will be an hour or two yet. Will let you know what I find and take pictures. I’ll leave the foot clutch engaged next time - yes, of course, that makes sense now!

Interesting on the model and serial numbers. I had it as a Standard Tractor based on a picture and caption in the Operator’s Manual but, Standard/Utility, I wouldn’t argue; it has the solid front axle. I wondered what you were specifically looking at in reference to steering gear. I’ll take a picture of the actual steering box (two halves) I removed to fit the orbital valve. I was thinking it was before 8191147 based on something in the IT manual; I’ll have to look again to see what it was.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Yes you are right on the steering, I didn't read the description well enough. Pic 1 The steering I wrote above is power steering for early gp tractors. Pic 2 The early utility tractors only show the steering gear asm that was used on many tractors going back to at least 1956 300 tractors. The later 530 Draft-O-matic tractors had hydrostatic steering. I haven't been around that much and don't know if it was on early 530. Maybe 1965?

I beam type solid front axle, usually non-adjustable tread, is utility tractor like your tractor. Case Ag wide front end tractors usually have tube type adjustable tread front axle or tricycle type front.

The link is where I got the steering info. I seldom use this site as they don't cover parts very well, probably because I am old and used to the old parts catalogs. Maybe it will be of help to you.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/caseih/

 

[Crinton]

Thanks, Joe.
Pictures are attached of the original steering gear that I removed to accommodate the orbital valve. It seems to me to be the early utility models and IT manual supports this. I had a CNH link earlier and got some good parts diagrams covering the hydraulic system. They didn't have stock on parts i was interested in - and i had to order through a dealer; the only thing I ended up getting was gaskets for between the control valves - and at a pretty high price!! Probably still have a couple - I ended up making some gaskets but was unsure at the time about the 'paper' I was using. Anyway, see my photos and, based on your knowledge, it may help in isolating the serial number range at least. Oh, and I'm old too and I prefer having a catalogue in my hands!!

This tractor did not have Draft-O-Matic but maybe that doesn't necessarily help with the serial number.

Now, the hand clutch. First, there's a picture of the top cover over the triple range - I haven't been able to find a shift pattern! There are pictures of the triple range gearing, FYI. There's a picture of the pins, my Pin 1 on the left and Pin 2 on the right. Pin 1 pulls out easily, Pin 2 will only move out fractionally. (my thinking process!) They can't both be engaged; I measured the "height" of each as best I could given the confined space - Pin 1 - 0.492", Pin 2 - 0.760"! Pin 2 is out, no wonder I couldn't pull it out! Maybe I should have been wearing my best glasses and not the shop ones!

So, pulled out Pin 1 - foot clutch engaged - rotated triple range input gear with quite a bit of difficulty. The main shaft turned with it! I repeated a couple more times, same thing. For whatever reason it does not appear to be adjustable at this point! This doesn't seem to be good news! I've already had the hydraulic reservoir cover off 3 separate times to get to the hydraulic pump; it's quite a job and it looks like I'll have to do it again to access this clutch, maybe also split the tractor to fix it. I'm guessing something is seized up in this clutch; there's 26 lbs of pull required to snap it over center right now. What do you think? Drive it until it won't move any more and then go at it?

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I was trying to pair this pic you posted above for your early 530 when I posted the Ag tractor steering pic. Do you have that power steering cylinder set up you posted above also? Early 530 utility power steering had a Bendix cylinder with ram, control valve, and actuator as a unit.

I can't read and respond to all this tonight but the pics of steering worm gear in housing and the lever with studs you just posted are correct for early 530 utility tractor. That steering setup was used in many case tractors in both utility and general purpose (Ag) tractors. I hope you replaced those studs in the steering lever they are worn out to the point they can possibly break the lever if you hit a rut hard.

 

[Crinton]

The power steering pictures I posted are all the new system I designed and put together. I completely removed the manual steering box (top and bottom portions) and those are what’s shown in the last pictures sent (1691a to 1694a, inclusive); these manual steering parts are no longer required, and at some point I’ll have to dispose of them. I only used the 530 existing steering shaft with its 3 universals to operate the orbital valve in the picture you queried (in last post). The orbital valve has a neck (column) on it that, with the aid of a custom adaptor connects to the steering shaft. The power steering system now installed works off the main hydraulics using a priority flow control valve (that gives priority to the steering) with the priority pressure presently set at 450 psi. This particular priority set up robs the overall hydraulic system of 1 gpm and leaves the remaining 7 gpm (approx) for other operations (hitch, loader, etc. ) - the hydraulic pump gives just over 8 gpm at full throttle. It all works well but there were some headaches along the way.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

When I saw your pic of the orbital I thought it might have been 1965 530 interim change to the later 530 hydrostatic steering even though the piping didn't match. You did a nice job on that change over. We are still to the point that nothing visible is not 1960-1964 early 530 utility tractor.

Lets continue with the hand clutch. I don't think you can get in to the hand clutch from the control valve plate b/c the main drive shaft is splined to the hand clutch hub and also there is a main drive shaft bearing and support right in front of the hub.

With the hand clutch disengaged and triple range in neutral the hand clutch is not mechanical connected to either main drive shaft or the transmission shaft. Pic is a typical shift pattern for triple range tractors, don't know if it is 530, you can check it out when you get running.

I don't has a 530 service manual, I will scan the 300 hand clutch pages in a 300 manual and post later today, only 3 pages.

 

[Crinton]

Thanks, Joe. There is a procedure in the IT manual and I have pasted it in below. My plan was to add a photo file but hey-ho, modern technology got the better of me and it worked this way!

I haven't read fully read it yet but, glancing at it, I think this is a job for the winter. Of course, I never read this part of the manual in detail before and if I had, I would have understood the importance of this clutch - bottom right of the left page, how did I miss that? I dropped into the adjustment still thinking it was somehow a clutch for the shuttle function - dang! I’m sure that if I had noticed ‘continuous (live) power take-off’ I would have changed my thinking because that was what I had hoped to have!

When I was last trying to adjust the clutch, I didn’t check to see if it would slacken off, only tighten. I thought I would try that to see if it would move either way. I’ll check that shortly.

I’m taking it that with the hand clutch disengaged and the triple range in neutral there should be no connection to the main shaft I’m watching in the ‘box’; it should stay still and not rotate. Have to check that somehow I haven’t engaged a gear in the TR because, definitely, with (my) Pin 1 OUT, moving that front TR input gear (the first gear from the front of the TR housing) causes both the adjusting yoke (13) and the shaft to move together, with a fair bit of index finger and thumb pressure on the gear.

 

[Crinton]

Confirmed - foot clutch engaged, triple range in neutral, hand clutch disengaged (pull rearward), (my) Pin1 pulled out (disengaged), Pin 2 also out, TR input gear turned (with some difficulty) both ACW and CW, drive shaft and adjusting yoke (13) turned together. I suppose this means that the hand clutch is seized somehow in a not-fully-engaged position (26 lbs force); slippage in the main drive could and, under load, probably would occur. Oh, dear!!

Good thing I started looking for help with the model and serial numbers!!

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I know what you mean about reading , I have read 100's if not 1000's of techpubs and specification binders in my working life.

I dug out some pics earlier today and just got back home. Look at the shafting in #1 pic maybe get a better idea how the hand clutch works.

I wrote this today so I'll post it.

The hand clutch, triple range gear train, and PTO are optional equipment. A tractor could come from the factory with any of this equipment or none at all.

In the service manual hand clutch over-center snap adjustment step #9 states "Tighten the clutch by pulling the lock pin out and turning the mainshaft in a counter-clockwise direction". We know that you can't reach in there and turn the mainshaft. The mainshaft is splined to the clutch drum so just pull the lock pin turn the drum CCW. Or better yet, if you have triple range pull the lock pin and turn the triple range input gear CW. Same thing and you won't have oil dripping off your arm all the way up to the elbow.

Your 530 has a standard PTO with drive shaft that is also splined to the hand clutch drum so the mainshaft runs directly from the engine clutch, coupled in the hand clutch, to the PTO unit on the back via the hollow center of the triple range and the transmission main drive shaft.

I don't have a 530 service manual, pics are from a 300 service manual are basically the same in most if not all the dry clutch X00B series tractors and also likely early 430 & 530 from viewing the on-line Caseih parts catalog.

Pic 1 power transmission shafting drive. The shaded area around the pto shaft is actually the hollow triple range and transmission main drive shaft. Note the double lipped seal far right on the PTO shaft near cutoff, that is the only seal that prevents the torque hydraulic oil migrating into the transmission, the subject of many yt posts

Pic 2 530 standard PTO shaft (~4 ft long)
Pic 3 530 hand clutch parts view from Caseih 530 parts catalog
Pic 4,5,& 6 300 service manual, hand clutch repair

 

[Crinton]

Thanks, again, Joe; I really appreciate all the help.

I’ve read through the procedure for splitting the tractor between the triple range and the 4-speed transmissions and it’s not as daunting as I first imagined. I’m pretty sure I can handle that, and remove the hand clutch assembly. I suspect it will be necessary to replace the clutch discs, although no telling what I might find. I’ve been looking at my usual parts sources and others, and don’t find any mention of hand clutch discs, looking in catalogues and on line. I haven’t called up any of them yet - most likely it’s going to be PartsASAP or Steiner. It would help to have some part numbers and I can try CaseIH for that; they could be pretty rare parts! Any thoughts on availability of these hand clutch parts?

I’d still like to save this job for the winter months and I’m thinking of trying to continue using the “540” to cut a field of ‘weeds’ with a flail mower. I would have used the B275 but the clutch has gone - wasn’t slipping but got more and more difficult to disengage, first the PTO clutch and a couple of week later the main clutch. Only ever done a clutch job on a car so these tractor clutches are going to be interesting!

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Good luck let us know how your parts search comes out.

 

[Crinton]

Thanks, Joe, will do. This has been a long and winding road! Cheers, R