Another problem found.......

[Katharine]

Hey Guys,

I seem to have "found" or "developed" yet ANOTHER problem with my old Ford 3400, (I'm begining to believe the catchy lil phrase of "Fixed or Repaired Daily") the bush hog when attached, will stay in the up position for as long as I want it to on the hydraulics. The problem comes when I'm mowing and the ground get's bumpy from rut's and such, the bush hog will manage to bounce itself "down" and start to dig in (I have the lift chains, I think the guy called them, on there) It left several ruts from the hog, until I figured out what was going on and started holding the lift handle the whole time where I wanted it. I got everything mowed finally but, MAN that was a PAIN!

I presume this IS bad hydraulics and I got scrooed on this also?

(Tractor for SALE, as IS, cheap! Just want $3200. for it, run's ok, has a "few" problems, **Ahem** comes with 5' bush hog, has frequent oil changes, new air cleaner, new battery, and other new parts)!!!!! ;>)


Katharine

 

[RodinNS]

You shouldn't need chains on that tractor like an "N". Make sure that the system selector is in position control. The smaller lever under the seat should be flipped in it's upward position for position control.
If the lift control lever is drifting downwards all the time, then look at the lever. You should see a nut that retains the lever on it's shaft. Try tightening that nut SOME. There is a friction disc behind the lever, and tightening this nut some will apply more pressure to the disc and make it holt it's position. It's also possible that the friction disc has disintegrated.... if it has, get a new one and replace it. No big deal and probably less than 10 bucks....
Otherwise, if the tractor holds the bushog up normally all the time, consider yourself lucky. The hydraulics are likely tight, and most of them aren't by this time.

Rod

 

[Katharine]

Your'e kidding right? ONLY a $10.00 fix and a nut twist here and there??? WOO HOO!!!! I figured for sure, after my more recent experiences with this thing, that my hydraulics were shot, FINALY something cheap and easy! I'll try that today!

THANK YOU
Katharine

 

[Anonymous-0]

are the chains check chains maybe?? my woods mower has them. they run from the third link, the top pin down to the lower pins on the 3 point of the mower. you set them so when you drop the mower, it wont dig in to the ground. if its digging when the going gets tough, sounds like the draft control is dropping the mower deeper, there should be a lever to adjust your draft.

 

[Allan in NE]

Just my opinion***** :>)

But, didn't I read where you had something like 5 acres to mow?

Why not park the blue ghost and go buy a good riding lawn mower?

This tired, old tractor is gonna make ya old before your time. :>)

Allan

 

[Rexalot]

She shouldn't be using "draft" control for the bush hog. You don't want it floating along like she describes it's doing.

Set the three point for "position" like described.

 

[Walt Davies]

You need to set the little wheel on the back of the Brush hog for the depth of cut that you want. there is a pin or bolt about halfway back on the long lever that it is attached to. This will keep it from digging in to deep. The wheel is made to run on the ground while mowing.
Walt

 

[Anonymous-0]

The way I set up my woods mower on my MF is to drop the mower all the way down, and don't depend on the hydraulics to hold it up. Then crank up on the leveling box to raise the mower to the desired height. Youn will need a leveling box on each side. use the hydraulics for raising when turning or moving to another area. Maybe when everything is new the hydraulics will not float up, or down. This works for me. Stan

 

[Anonymous-0]

i read the post a couple times, and it sounded like the 3 point was floating when she went over the bumps and such, which explains why the mower was shoved into the ground. dont know if she is using a top link or a chain. we always use a chain instead, that way the tail of the mower can ride up when you go over humps.

 

[Katharine]

I don't know about TIRED before my time, (I have kids, the farm, and a hubby for that job...) but it's trying to make me BROKE and scare me ta death, cause I keep feeling like something ELSE major is going to go wrong! You know, BESIDE the engine! LOL

 

[Katharine]

I have a leveling box on one side, don't think it's on both sides... Too HOT to be out looking at it right now

 

[Katharine]

I'll try and get pic's of the back of the tractor, the hog, and the tracks and bare spots it's left, so you can all get a full picture of what I'm talking about. Sounds like it might be a combo of a few different things.

(I have my Snapper LT 1600 rider comming home soon, so it can help with the tight spots up around the house, but other than that, I NEED a bigger, real tractor for the other farming projects I want to get in to, setting fence posts, putting up a pole barn, putting in a shallow well for irragation, plowing and row-crop cultivation.)

Thanks!
Katharine

 

[Mathias NY]

I tried to read though all the posts, but I may have missed this.

On most control levers for 3pt hitches there is a movable upper and lower stop. This is basically a little clamp that runs along the path of the lever. They are used to limit range of motion of the 3pt hitch. If the hydraulics don't settle and it really is just the handle moving, adjusting these clamps will fix the problem.

 

[Tx Jim]

Katharine,do what RodinNS suggested and that will fix you problem. No extra chains,adjustments or leveling boxes required. Tx Jim