Another welding rod ?

[Ole Shovel]

Got two bolts for manifold broke off flush in a JD cylinder head. Plan to weld a washer and nut on to these and try removing them that way. What is you favorite rod for this or one you had best luck with? No I'm not even going to try easy outs again so don't mention those. Thanks.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Mig is best

 

[Anonymous-0]

A specialty high tensile rod would be the best. A welding supply should sell them in a small package but they won't be cheap. They are Stainless based. If not, 7018 would be the strongest common rod. Dave

 

[Puddles]

Certanium 707-SP

http://www.kenteurope.com/uk/datasheets/23013.pdf

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, that's the type of rod I was thinking. I've never used them but I know a place that used a special rod from Eutectic that was super strong. Probably very similar to the Certanium rod. Dave

 

[Anonymous-0]

I don't know it all but if it was mine I would use 7018, good luck let us know you come out.

 

[T_Bone]

Hi OS,

I like using 6010 as it has a very thin slag thus cleans it's self easy if you need to add more weld. When your done welding smack the nut a couple good raps as this loosens the rust in the threads. Just as it cools, about 500º, hit it with some water adding some temper (toughness).

I add 30amps or so to my normal machine setting so I can use a tight arc thus driving out the slag out of the blind hole.

Mig would be a poor choice as it cold laps for about the first 3/8" so it would be a weak weld.

7018 is ok but has too thick of slag thus is harder too blind weld in the hole.

T_Bone

 

[Puddles]

Hi Dave, I couldn’t remember the number so I had to do a little research.
First time I ever used this stuff was welding extensions on ships augers for the carpenters. We were building a huge addition to a mill; I was working in the mill’s welding shop building something, one of the carpenter foremen came in and asked me to weld an extension on a bit to drill through a series of 12 x 12’s. The mill’s welding foreman suggested I use this rod. In time I was welding up to 6-foot extensions for these carpenters to drill through gluelams, never had one break. I was amazed at how strong this rod was for the amount of weld you can place on a 1/2-inch piece of round stock.

 

[Ole Shovel]

I found a online comparison chart showing Eutectic 680 could be similar to that 707SP rod. Have some stainless rod but also some LaGrange gold rod get from Farmers Choice in Nebraska that's alloy type and always works well for me on disimilar metals. I bet no dealers here have that Certanium rod just have to call them after while and find out.

 

[Ole Shovel]

Makes sense to me doing it that way and rapping it some and hitting with water too. I probably have some of that rod. No access to mig now but knew it wouldn't give the heat needed either. I may try 6010 on one and LaGrange gold rod that's a alloy on another and see what works for me. Thanks guys.

 

[Ole Shovel]

It's the LaGrange super gold rod I been using some with good luck but haven't tried it on these broke studs yet.

http://www.farmerschoice.com/electrodes.html

May try 6010 or see if can find Eutectic 680. This is link to comparison chart I had found earlier.
Hi Alloy comparison chart

 

[Anonymous-0]

For really tight bolts, like Cat roller bolts, I've used 7018 because that's all I had but I find it too soft and will twist off. I know a specialty shop that used some high strength Eutectic rods for removing broken studs and bolts. It seemed like just a tack had lots of strength compared to 7018. Dave