Any advise!!

[Crazyfeathers]

Alright, like I said before, I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I do know how to read and I tried running the wiring as sent in this illustration and I still get nothing. My ignition switch is a toggle switch, I still have the one wire thumb button installed on the transmission of the tractor. I still get nothing. Did I short something out, Whats the problem. Here is the illiustration I used. I use to have the 6 volt system, but bought the 12 volt conversion kit(Atlantic) I have tried to re-wire the tractor like the atlantic kit told me to and also tried wiring as this diagram that was sent to me shows. I have a 12 volt coil, resistor, toggle switch for on and off, the push button on the transmission and a new ammeer. I hooke it up as illustrated, but am getting nowwhere.

If anyone has the time, please give me a call 701-400-1520. Cody

 

[old]

At a glance your diagram look right. Did you by chance replace the soliniod?? If you did you may have the wrong type of have it on back ward and if on backwards it will not work

 

[Den N Ms]

Crazyfeathers,Does your solenoid have 3 posts or does it have 4 posts?If it had a automotive type key switch before,The solenoid May have been changed to make the start key switch work.You need a 3 post solenoid that uses a ground to activate it on the small post.

 

[Anonymous-0]

starter switch to starter solenoid may not match application.

 

[Dunk]

It appears that there are now 2 of this topic..

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=547664&start=30

(quoted from post at 17:47:56 10/25/09) Illustration you sent me I followed to a T, three times. It doesn't work!! Went back to just a toggle switch system, since everyone was telling me the spring loaed switch I had won't work. I jumped the solenoid with a pliers, no spark.. [color=red:dfa19d509a]Want to buy a tractor???????[/color:dfa19d509a]

That is getting a little carried away at this point.

The folks here [b:dfa19d509a]will[/b:dfa19d509a] help you fix your tractor, and DO understand [b:dfa19d509a]all[/b:dfa19d509a] of what you don't about it.

Just remember, you are our eyes, ears, hands, and paitence.

Without your part, out part is worthless.

No need to get stressed, as soon as we all get the information that we need, you CAN fix it.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:29:06 10/25/09) It appears that there are now 2 of this topic..

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=547664&start=30

(quoted from post at 17:47:56 10/25/09) Illustration you sent me I followed to a T, three times. It doesn't work!! Went back to just a toggle switch system, since everyone was telling me the spring loaed switch I had won't work. I jumped the solenoid with a pliers, no spark.. [color=red:074f992a72]Want to buy a tractor???????[/color:074f992a72]

That is getting a little carried away at this point.

The folks here [b:074f992a72]will[/b:074f992a72] help you fix your tractor, and DO understand [b:074f992a72]all[/b:074f992a72] of what you don't about it.

Just remember, you are our eyes, ears, hands, and paitence.

Without your part, out part is worthless.

No need to get stressed, as soon as we all get the information that we need, you CAN fix it.

In the event that your solenoid is bad, I "borrowed" most of this from Bob (thanks) and you see the numbers at the bottom.

 

[Crazyfeathers]

JMOR,

I checked the solenoid. No clicking noise.

 

[dennisinoklahoma]

Cody,

Here is what I do to isolate electrical problems. The plan is to determine if it is a battery problem, starter problem or an ignition problem.

You need a cheap voltmeter, even a $8 model will work. You need some heavy duty jumper wire. You need some jumper cables.

1. Check that you did not leave the plastic covers on the battery terminals, I have seen this fool an experienced 68 year old.

2. Check for voltage across the battery terminals. If not proper, charge the battery.

3. Check the grounding point for a bad connection by testing for voltage between the tractor body and the non ground terminal on the battery. If there is a voltage loss, it is due to a bad connecion at the battery or at the ground point.

4. Disconnect the coil hot wire and jumper a wire directly from the battery non ground to this connection. This bypasses everything in the ignition circuit up to the coil.

5. Verify the tractor is in neutral. Turn on the gas, choke the girl and use one side of a pair of jumper cables and jumper from the non ground side of the battery directly to the starter. The girl should start, remove the jumper cable and let the girl run on jumper.

If she turns over but does not start, check for spark from the coil while turning the engine. If no spark, check rest of the ignition system (distributor, points, condenser).

6. If she runs, verify the key is on. Reconnect the hot wire to the coil and disconnect the jumper to the coil. If the engine dies, restart using the jumper cables, if it will not restart, you have an open in the hot wire to the coil circuit. Just start testing for voltage at each connection until you find the open.

7. To troubleshoot the starter. Verify the tractor is in neutral. Use the jumper cable to jumper from the battery to the starter downstream of the solenoid, the starter should turn.

8. To troubleshoot the solenoid and starter button. Connect upstream of the solenoid on the large cable connection. Connect a jumper wire onto the small connection on the solenoid and take the other end to ground. The starter should turn if it does, the starter button or wire to the starter button is bad. If the starter does not turn, and did turn in the prior test, the solenoid is bad.

If this does not get you going on the right track, call me. 580-765-9865, after 6 pm EST.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 23:43:55 10/25/09) Cody,

Here is what I do to isolate electrical problems. The plan is to determine if it is a battery problem, starter problem or an ignition problem.

You need a cheap voltmeter, even a $8 model will work. You need some heavy duty jumper wire. You need some jumper cables.

1. Check that you did not leave the plastic covers on the battery terminals, I have seen this fool an experienced 68 year old.

2. Check for voltage across the battery terminals. If not proper, charge the battery.

3. Check the grounding point for a bad connection by testing for voltage between the tractor body and the non ground terminal on the battery. If there is a voltage loss, it is due to a bad connecion at the battery or at the ground point.

4. Disconnect the coil hot wire and jumper a wire directly from the battery non ground to this connection. This bypasses everything in the ignition circuit up to the coil.

5. Verify the tractor is in neutral. Turn on the gas, choke the girl and use one side of a pair of jumper cables and jumper from the non ground side of the battery directly to the starter. The girl should start, remove the jumper cable and let the girl run on jumper.

If she turns over but does not start, check for spark from the coil while turning the engine. If no spark, check rest of the ignition system (distributor, points, condenser).

6. If she runs, verify the key is on. Reconnect the hot wire to the coil and disconnect the jumper to the coil. If the engine dies, restart using the jumper cables, if it will not restart, you have an open in the hot wire to the coil circuit. Just start testing for voltage at each connection until you find the open.

7. To troubleshoot the starter. Verify the tractor is in neutral. Use the jumper cable to jumper from the battery to the starter downstream of the solenoid, the starter should turn.

8. To troubleshoot the solenoid and starter button. Connect upstream of the solenoid on the large cable connection. Connect a jumper wire onto the small connection on the solenoid and take the other end to ground. The starter should turn if it does, the starter button or wire to the starter button is bad. If the starter does not turn, and did turn in the prior test, the solenoid is bad.

If this does not get you going on the right track, call me. 580-765-9865, after 6 pm EST.

Now that is just plain weird! How & when did Oklahoma end up in the Eastern Time zone? :roll:

 

[trucker40]

Just use your test light.Turn on your switch,hook the alligator clip to the side of the battery thats hooked to ground,probe all the connections until you get to the solenoid.Do you have fire to the solenoid?If not find where you loose fire at.I have seen wires that look good be broke inside,or when somebody crimped a new end on it didnt make connection or just lots of things can cause you to not have a good connection.If you have fire to the solenoid,see if you have fire to the distributor.If you have fire to the distributor,jump the solenoid and it should crank.Or just hook jumper cables from another battery to the hot post of the starter and touch the ground somewhere and if the starter is good it should crank.If you get that far and still the starter wont crank,you can try this.Turn off the switch.Put it in high gear and rock it backwards and forwards.Sometimes the starter might get hung in the flywheel and not work.Rocking it back and forth might release it.It helps to know what you did and where you are at in checking things.Hooking it up right is one thing,having fire through all of the connections is another.

 

[dennisinoklahoma]

Jmor,

I live on the east coast and use the Dennisinoklahoma as a confuser.

Protocol where I worked before retiring required all times be referenced to U.S. EST where the main office was located. We traveled all over the world so it worked for us. Bad habits are hard to break. It could have been worse, like Zulu Time or North Pole Time.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 22:43:23 10/26/09) Jmor,

I live on the east coast and use the Dennisinoklahoma as a confuser.

Protocol where I worked before retiring required all times be referenced to U.S. EST where the main office was located. We traveled all over the world so it worked for us. Bad habits are hard to break. It could have been worse, like Zulu Time or North Pole Time.

o you live on the east coast huh? You need a new area code bubba! 580 is Oklahoma?

Try being who you are instead of someone else.

 

[GunPilot]

If you were a little closer to me (NE) than North Dakota I'd come over and fix it with you. If you truly do have it wired as per the diagram, then I'm thinking the soleniod is the issue. It could be broken, or it could be the wrong type. I've seen two kinds; the kind that short to ground, as per your diagram, and the type that use +12v to the 3rd post (little wire) to work.

Another thing, remember it was positive ground when it was 6v, now it needs to be negative ground. Makes a big difference.

[b:2c19d2f276]Edit:[/b:2c19d2f276] After reading both the threads now I think I understand the cranking problem. I think you still have the original solenoid, in which case, you need to wire it to the starter button like it was before. It will then crank as long as that solenoid is good.

The reason it will not work with the key switch is that solenoid expects ground, not the +12v the key is sending. Along with several other posters here I recommend using Henry Ford's starter button for safety's sake.

As for the sparkies, well, have to know more about that switch and how it's connected. If you can get +12v (somewhat less with the resistor) to the + side of the coil with it on, you should get spark if the points are breaking.

But, fix one thing at a time. Get it cranking with the starter button and then work on the spark. Verify negative ground.

 

[Southtowns27]

This might sound like a stupid question, but are you SURE that the battery is charged? With nothing more than the battery cables connected, you should be able to get the engine to crank. Touch a jumper wire from ground to the 3rd terminal (small one) on the solenoid and it should crank. If it doesn't, you have a dead battery, bad cable, bad connection, etc. You need to get a voltmeter. Hook the voltmeter to the battery and try to crank it. If the voltage goes to zero, the battery is shot. If it stays right at 12V and doesn't drop at all, you have a bad connection. Keep us updated and don't give up, we'll get it.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

I wasn't aware that Ponca City OK was on the east coast......

 

[Crazyfeathers]

JMOR,

Will a 6 volt solenoid work? The napa part numer you gave me is for a 6 volt solenoid?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, Brand new battery

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:16:49 10/27/09) JMOR,

Will a 6 volt solenoid work? The napa part numer you gave me is for a 6 volt solenoid?

erfectly!