Any problems caused by adding extra weights?

[hope farmer]

Is it always a good idea to have additional weights (wheel and or front weights) added to a tractor? Any jobs you do with a tractor where the extra weight is a problem?
Thanks for your time.

 

[IH2444]

You can have enough weight that gravity and uphill directions cause problems.

 

[buickanddeere]

Increased rolling friction, increased soil compaction, increased fuel consumption, increased drivetrain wear, longer stopping distances on the road and reduced crop yields. If ballasted beyond what is required to obtain ideal slippage.

 

[Anonymous-0]

To me, loaded rear tires and one set of rear wheel weights designed for a tractor of the size in question are as "standard" equipment as the steering wheel itself. I've always used them on AC, MF, and Ford. The only reason I don't have them on my presentl 2N is that apparently someone else thought they needed them more than I did and stole them. I'll get another set one of these days.
I consider a tractot that is unballasted as being nearly a useless deathtrap if you are going to try to handle and pull heavy loads, especially on hilly ground. I nearly learned this the hard way long ago using an unballasted Ford 860.
Mr. Bob

 

[Janicholson]

buickanddeere has the reasons. Wet soil, lawn use, and bearing wear on axles and spindles are also reasons to limit Wt to that which is required to maintain good working traction. JimN

 

[the tractor vet]

Myself for a tillage tractor or for pulling heavy loads Loaded tires and some extra iron is a must . When plowen we load the ft. rack with up to 1000lbs on the 1066 . When culivating with the 806 and the rear mounted cul. i add 600lbs this helps hold on the row. For mowen hay that tractor is NOT loaded as the weight is not needed . When we are pulling silage wagons a 12000 lb tractor is NOT realy heavy enough when the wagon your pullen weighs in at over 20000 lbs.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've NEVER as yet had bearing, spindle or other problems related to constantly having tractor rears loaded and one wheel weight on each.
Mr. Bob

 

[Steven f/AZ]

Too much ballast and a low gear can destroy a drivetrain fairly quickly...

There is a certain % of slippage that is considered ideal, can't remember the exact number off the top of my head.

When it comes time to use all available horsepower something's gotta give, and spinning the tires a bit is the cheapest way to go!

Also, too much ballast will increase soil compaction and fuel usage along with increased wear on drivetrain components...


In short, you should try to ballast just enough for the job you are going to do.

 

[kyhayman]

Too much weight can cause some long term problems (compaction, wastes fuel, additional wear, etc) but not enough weight can cause some very acute and lethal short term problems. I try to err on the side of slightly more than I need for normal use so I have enough when things arent normal.

As to wear, I run a 1000 pounds on the front of one of my 7600 Fords (fully loaded rear tires) and 400 pounds on the other (unloaded rear tires). Tie rod ends seem to wear out about twice as fast with the extra weight. I normally uses these tractors to mow with (batwing). Fuel consumption is about 50% more on the heavy one and the pump is juiced a lot on the lighter one (stock settings on the heavy one).

 

[Heyseed]

Filled rears on my IH give it a very stable feel. I did see what I think may be a bit too much weight on this fellows M

 

[John A.]

Hope, I run 2 100 hp tractors here at my place.
1st, a IH 966 with +/- 750 cast on each rear corner w/ a 2350 loader.
2nd, a JD 4230 with 780 lbs cast on each rear corner w/ a Koyker 565 loader.
IMO there can not be too much rear wt on a loader tractor. Simply to have the correct or over ballast to handle what ever is lifted by the loader. Tractors that do light duty farming, then little or no ballast is needed. Yes some tractors are more likely to excessive wear, than others.
In the past John Deere had no wt restrictions on the amt of wt their tractors carried. If you could mount it up on the front then OK No warrienty issues. Saw a 4840 once with 2 complete sets of suitcase wt on the front.
Bach in the 80s, Versitile would VOID your warrienty if you added wheel wts. On their big 4x4s, ie 850s.
So back to your question it depends on what you are doing with your tractor as how much or little wt a tractor needs. Jobs where wts would not be needed as much as others. Grain drill work, most mowing/shredder work, baling...round or sm sqs.
Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.

 

[Janicholson]

Absolutely. I don't care how much weight is on the wheels, it is non chassis wt. Some do get loaded with iron on the frame, or brackets, and it will add to wear. JimN

 

[Hugh MacKay]

Hope Farmer: In some respects this is a loaded question. Weight or the lack of it is completely related to the work one is doing with a particular tractor. Weight robs power, but it also adds stability and traction. There is no question front end loaders or pulling heavy loads of hard ground or roadways require a lot of rear end weight. Heavy hitch loads require, (mounted equipment) enough front end weight to compensate for the rear load. Quite often in a field situation more rubber on the ground will give better pulling ability than added weight. For that reason and compaction concerns we first saw larger tires, then duals, front drive, triples, and finally articulated. The articulated has a unique problem, it was given big horsepower to handle 8 or 12 big tires, and one best make sure the pounds per square inch are relatively close front and rear. If one end is getting better traction than the other end, one will soon make mince meat of the differential with the excessive load. I've seen that one first hand.

My advice, you best come back and tell us which make and model tractor and your specific use. I farmed for years, through the 70s, nine tractors on the go, and each one of them were balasted to suit a high percentage of the work that particular tractor did. You'll seldom get it ideal, other than suitcase front weights, they are not quick change items. If your doing loader work one of the better rear weights is a concrete block your hitch will pickup and go with quickly.

 

[kyplowboy]

Under "normal" conditions more lbs make for more traction and less likly to roll on hills. One place I have seen were more lbs be bad is if your tractor is turned WAY up or has a bigger engine than the rest of the drive train is built for. Buddy of mine bought a 8640 with a bad motor and put in a souped up cummins in it. He had to take the fluid out of the tires. When a tractor gets in a bind, something has to give, when the engine won't bog AND the tires won't spin it is going to "give" in the trany or rear end.

 

[Oldmax]

Go with the Factory Spec on weights mine calls for 100 lbs max on front thats what i put on it 1715 Ford/New Holland , with front & rear tires loaded with 50% anti-freeze & Water. That should be enough weight for tractor to handle unless it has loader then add rear wheel weights.