Auto darkining helmet.

[bc]

These dock section could be as wide as 4ft and 20 foot long with cross braces about every 3 or 4 foot. so each person welded in the cross brace. The company that I worked for closed it doors back in the mid/late 90s.

Ok. So 1 person every 3' or 4'. Hope those lights I sent you helps your eyes. The older I get the brighter the light I need for my eyes.

 

[old]

Ok. So 1 person every 3' or 4'. Hope those lights I sent you helps your eyes. The older I get the brighter the light I need for my eyes.

Yes as we age over eye sight seems to go down hill. That is why my shop has a number of Hologen lights in the over head so it is well lit when they are working that is. Seem that one has a blown bulb but as I get older it is harder to change the bulbs.

 

[wh]

They maybe a lot better now but back when they first came out they didn't work well so I in turn got my eyes burned a number of times due to where and how we worked.

Bought a jackson when they first came out. Worked perfect. Not as fancy or nice as the later models but worked great. Never ever was flashed. If you burnt eyes bad enough to go to the E R something else was wrong. And for sure if you went more than once!

 

[old]

Bought a jackson when they first came out. Worked perfect. Not as fancy or nice as the later models but worked great. Never ever was flashed. If you burnt eyes bad enough to go to the E R something else was wrong. And for sure if you went more than once!

I don't know what may have been wrong it could have been the helmet they gave me or something else but after it happened 2 or 3 times they put me where I was alone so I could not get a flash from others and it never happened again

 

[300jk]

I don't know what may have been wrong it could have been the helmet they gave me or something else but after it happened 2 or 3 times they put me where I was alone so I could not get a flash from others and it never happened again

Old I can honestly say it has happened to me a few times. I have a Miller auto helmet and love it. When I got flashed it was someone behind or slightly behind me. It reflected off my inner lens. It can happen. The helmet brand or type has nothing to do with it. Went to bed a few times with “arc” eye.

 

[charlie n]

The big thing is get one with all the controls inside the hood. Nothing gets bumped out of adjustment or broke off. Son has a Speed Glass and mine's a Lincoln. Both good helmets. Good Luck.

 

[bc]

All I need is a helmet that will protect my eyes and automatically set the welder amps and weld a good bead for me too. Suppose it would be nice if the helmet could give me a back rub as well.

 

[old]

The big thing is get one with all the controls inside the hood. Nothing gets bumped out of adjustment or broke off. Son has a Speed Glass and mine's a Lincoln. Both good helmets. Good Luck.

What controls. The one I had back in the early 90s had no controls. It was either on or off

 

[charlie n]

What controls. The one I had back in the early 90s had no controls. It was either on or off

Then you didn't have an auto dark.

 

[DoubleO7]

Old I can honestly say it has happened to me a few times. I have a Miller auto helmet and love it. When I got flashed it was someone behind or slightly behind me. It reflected off my inner lens. It can happen. The helmet brand or type has nothing to do with it. Went to bed a few times with “arc” eye.

I would agree with that scenario. Also it seems the newer helmets have sides that go further back than the helmets made 30+ years ago.

 

[kencombs]

I suspect most are like me, and don't wear safety glasses under the helmet as I should. So reflections or indirect exposure are possible.

And, I've known companies to buy 'safety' glasses that weren't made of the correct material to block UV rays. In that case,, wearing cheap plastic glasses under the hood wouldn't protect one from a neighbors arc.

Either or both of those could account for the issues Old faced.

I don't think even todays good helmets would provide protection from arc rays at a 90deg angle to their lenses. That's why safety glasses with wraparound lenses should be worn, among other reasons. Now, I just need to follow my own advice, every time!

 

[kurt:in]

The old speedglas helmets back in the 80's you bought as a single shade helmet. If you needed a shade 10 you bought a shade 10 helmet .If you needed a shade 12 helmet you bought a shade 12 helmet. Adjustable shades came later.

 

[Texasmark]

Not quite sure if I have seen the prices on the auto darkening helmets. I don't need a real fancy one, like the digital ones, just a good make for around $150.00. What do you farmers suggest?

I have been using HF $50-60 helmets for years. They work well on my stick welding and my MIG. Lots of folks gripe about MIG being too low in heat intensity to get the helmet to darken. Not a problem with my HFs. I store them on the bottom shelf of my welding cart with the front facing out and the door left open so that they get charged up over time and are always ready to go.

 

[wh]

What controls. The one I had back in the early 90s had no controls. It was either on or off

You did not have an auto dark. Bought the jackson first year it came out. Had shade selection knob. Could even set sensitivity. And it was considered a plain jane compared to helmets today.

 

[old]

You did not have an auto dark. Bought the jackson first year it came out. Had shade selection knob. Could even set sensitivity. And it was considered a plain jane compared to helmets today.

All the helmets had on them was an on/off button I don't know what brand they where

 

[farmersamm]

Actually........it's entirely possible that you can get blasted/flashed when wearing a hood with only a few sensors, instead of 4. Lot of the older hoods had only 2 sensors, which sometimes were blocked by something in the field of view, and didn't activate the lens. Welding in a tight area where your head was at an odd angle to the arc, or partially blocked, could make for a lousy experience.

I just took a gander at the cheaper HF hoods. The bottom of the heap ones have 2 sensors. As the price increases, the number of sensors increases. Don't mess around........get one with 4 sensors. Make a point of checking these specs.

I've loved my Jackson True Sight. It's a good mid level price hood. Great visibility. Clean puddle picture. I can't see too well anymore, and I'm looking at some muscle control issues..............but at least the hood still works fine, after over a decade+

 

[docmirror]

View attachment 99563 Actually........it's entirely possible that you can get blasted/flashed when wearing a hood with only a few sensors, instead of 4. Lot of the older hoods had only 2 sensors, which sometimes were blocked by something in the field of view, and didn't activate the lens. Welding in a tight area where your head was at an odd angle to the arc, or partially blocked, could make for a lousy experience.

I just took a gander at the cheaper HF hoods. The bottom of the heap ones have 2 sensors. As the price increases, the number of sensors increases. Don't mess around........get one with 4 sensors. Make a point of checking these specs.

I've loved my Jackson True Sight. It's a good mid level price hood. Great visibility. Clean puddle picture. I can't see too well anymore, and I'm looking at some muscle control issues..............but at least the hood still works fine, after over a decade+

How does one identify the sensors? I weld in some obscure angles sometimes, would be nice to get the better level. Nevermind, I found it.

 

[UAFitter]

View attachment 99563 Actually........it's entirely possible that you can get blasted/flashed when wearing a hood with only a few sensors, instead of 4. Lot of the older hoods had only 2 sensors, which sometimes were blocked by something in the field of view, and didn't activate the lens. Welding in a tight area where your head was at an odd angle to the arc, or partially blocked, could make for a lousy experience.

I just took a gander at the cheaper HF hoods. The bottom of the heap ones have 2 sensors. As the price increases, the number of sensors increases. Don't mess around........get one with 4 sensors. Make a point of checking these specs.

I've loved my Jackson True Sight. It's a good mid level price hood. Great visibility. Clean puddle picture. I can't see too well anymore, and I'm looking at some muscle control issues..............but at least the hood still works fine, after over a decade+

And again, not darkening when the arc is struck is an aggravation, not a hazard. The lens stops UV in any state, and UV is what causes arc burn.

 

[M-MAN]

You did not have an auto dark. Bought the jackson first year it came out. Had shade selection knob. Could even set sensitivity. And it was considered a plain jane compared to helmets today.

Jackson was behind on the auto dark helmets. My local supplier has sold Jackson's forever. The first auto darks they carried were Swiss made ArcOne helmets. They are fixed shade ultralight helmets. No buttons at all. Battery is charged by solar. Put it on and nod to test and weld away. Right at $200 way back then and worth every penny.

You did not have an auto dark. Bought the jackson first year it came out. Had shade selection knob. Could even set sensitivity. And it was considered a plain jane compared to helmets today.

 

[gears]

I love my Miller Elite but those button cells need replaced it seems like every 6 months!