cmickgo

Member
I have a 39 B with a clutch problem. At times, it is so tight it snaps in real hard and won't disengage. At other times, it will be so loose that it slips while driving on flat ground. The clutch plates are new and the springs all appear to be ok. Any ideas on what is wrong? Thanks.
 
You will need to tear it down further to look at the dogs in the rear section. The service manual will walk you through the teardown and pulling the driver disk. As long as you are in there, inspect the bronze fork surfaces and I change the bearing and slinger while I'm there. Then look at the pins that connect the clutch handle and arms.
 
An early check to make sure the pulley brake isn't interfering is the first thing I would recommend. Just loosen it up enough so that it isn't in play - then test and adjust the clutch. Once the clutch is working satisfactorily - go back to adjust the pulley brake. (PatB)
 
Very often the TEE headed operating bolts (much harder than the cast clutch dogs) wear indentations into the forks of the clutch dogs. This wear is inside where you don't see it unless you remove the pulley. It isn't really detrimental to the operation of the clutch but it can drive a feller crazy when adjusting one if not familiar with what's "in there" and how to cope with it.

When you adjust the operating bolts, put the cotter (or any piece of mechanics wire) back in but don't ben it yet. I usually use a pair of long needle nosed pliers in the slots of the castle nut to then rotate the operating bolt back and forth. Watch the adjusting disc when you rock the nut AND BOLT back and forth. You'll likely see the adjusting disc pop in and out at certain spots. The adjusting disc pops out (only a few thousandths) when the bolt falls into the pits worn into the dog's. Once the bolt is in the worn spot (where you really want it) which is its old familiar home position. They're likely to stay there especially if the springs are good. Check clutch operation for snap ONLY after you've returned all three bolts to this "home" position! The bolts will likely find this home position eventually but when they do, then your clutch will be too loose again & when you tighten each bolt up one castle, then it will be too tight because the sum of the change in nut position PLUS the wear is too great a change so you back 'em back off & maybe mutter a bit to yourself. Grrr.

See if maybe that helps.

Later.
 
In addition to the below ideas when you remove the pulley also inspect the operating sleeve. It has a spot where a dowel pin rides in a hole to keep it from rotating but still letting it move in and out. I have seen this hole and pin worn letting it rotate causing this very problem.
 
Thanks guys. I think I found the wear points on the TEE bolts. I will see this weekend if that took care of it.
 
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