B275 Bull gear

[Guigui]

Hi,

So as I stated in another post I have a bull pinion seal that is severly leaking in the brake on the right side of my B-275. I ordered 2 seals, I will change both sides to be sure as it is quite a job...

But what would be a "simple" seal job without a bit of carnage. I found metal chips in the bottom of the pan, one of with is of a significant size and shape.

Behold, it turns out I have a missing tooth on the bull gear. So I guess I'm off to try and find one. Do you know if it is still available? Good news is the bull pinion seems intact

Also do I have to change the seals on the covers with nes ones or I remove them and just put on a layer of RTV?

 

[Guigui]

Here is the bull pinion

 

[used red MN]

Bull gear 751053R3

Left bull pinion 751109R1

May be some places across the pond with some used
ones. Neither one has great returns when web
searched. I would recommend using new gaskets if you
like a leak free job.

 

[Guigui]

I honnestly do not beleive I need a bull pinion, it looks in pretty good shape. Il will inspect it more and disasemble the rear end until I find what happens. The debris make me beleive that at some point a bearing cage broke and it got in the gears

 

[riverbend]

I don't think that you do either. They are pretty tough. I had one where you could see the imprint of a ball bearing in one of the teeth. It never caused a problem.

If it was a bad bearing that caused the problem you would have found the remains of it along with the broken tooth. How are all the bearings ?

 

[Guigui]

Well things explains themselve. Remember that I took it appart because of a badly leaking seal. I found the cause of it all.

It seems that the housing is cracked. You think cleaning and JB weld would be enough?

This post was edited by Guigui on 01/04/2023 at 04:24 pm.

 

[rustred]

cant tell a thing looking at it end ways. need a good tooth picture of where the pattern is. cant tell is its got pits from metal or the hard
surface wearing , so no idea.

 

[Janicholson]

Grind the area maybe 1/8inch deep and 1/2 inch longer/wider. Apply a thin layer of JB weld, then fiberglass woven mat pressed into it and smoothed. then a top layer. There is reason to be in the area of 3/16 inch thickness. Jim

 

[caterpillar guy]

If you are keeping the tractor and going to use it a lot, I would strip the case and check each bearing out for wear and damage. You might find more than you see. I would also probably while I was that deep just change all the bearings out for new ones. Just my way since I was that deep. We did the 1466 like that the ring and pinion were bad in it. Started to flake off the tooth face. IT got a new ring and pinion and all the bearings were changed out. This was in the rearend and range section. I had it hanging on a chain as I washed the case out. then started with new parts. We also used new gaskets on all joints. It looks like a new one for clean on the outside now.

 

[riverbend]

That will do it. 2X on checking all the bearings. That grit is in all of them. I just did a similar job on my H and once it was ready to button up, I put a few magnets in the bottom of the case to collect any the strays.

Do you weld ? Or have a friend who does ? Brazing is traditional for cast iron but there are some new(ish) nickel rods for arc welding. My neighbor has repaired some busted obsolete castings for me and it has been very reliable. The rods are expensive, around $5 each if I recall correctly.

 

[Guigui]

(quoted from post at 21:15:14 01/04/23) cant tell a thing looking at it end ways. need a good tooth picture of where the pattern is. cant tell is its got pits from metal or the hard
surface wearing , so no idea.

It r

It really looks fine to my eye

 

[Guigui]

(quoted from post at 09:28:24 01/05/23) That will do it. 2X on checking all the bearings. That grit is in all of them. I just did a similar job on my H and once it was ready to button up, I put a few magnets in the bottom of the case to collect any the strays.

Do you weld ? Or have a friend who does ? Brazing is traditional for cast iron but there are some new(ish) nickel rods for arc welding. My neighbor has repaired some busted obsolete castings for me and it has been very reliable. The rods are expensive, around $5 each if I recall correctly.

Yes after thinking about it I will weld, I have cast iron welding rod. I just dont trust my welding skills to be confident that it will not leak, so I might jbweld over my weld. Like grins, weld and JB weld

I have inspected bearings and they look good, I will replace both bull pinion bearings to make sure and clean the h*ll of the rest

 

[rustred]

Thanks, much better pic. Now I can see some filings have
been running through the gears. In a shop or under a
shop foreman they would not reuse them. But on an old
tractor it dont matter much. Just wanted to see for
myself as once there is filings in the oil its in everything
including the brgs. So it all depends on you and the clean
up. And if youre replacing the bull gear I would replace
the pinion also. Keeping them matched. Talking used
gears.

 

[495man]

Should be lots or parts in Canada for those.

Try Chown Tractor Parts.
https://external_link.com/tractor-list/

 

[riverbend]

When I replaced the bearings in my H I checked the new versus old with a dial indicator and found that the radial play was about the same. The sideways play was much larger on the used bearings. The inner race could move a lot farther out of the plane of the bearing on the used ones. Cleaned bearings, a couple drops of ATF for lube.

Since you will have it all apart to clean the bearings, it won't hurt to check them.

 

[jimtrs]

Yes after thinking about it I will weld, I have cast iron welding rod. I just dont trust my welding skills .....

May want to consider cold metal stitching, for integrity

 

[Guigui]

(quoted from post at 11:59:22 01/07/23) When I replaced the bearings in my H I checked the new versus old with a dial indicator and found that the radial play was about the same. The sideways play was much larger on the used bearings. The inner race could move a lot farther out of the plane of the bearing on the used ones. Cleaned bearings, a couple drops of ATF for lube.

Since you will have it all apart to clean the bearings, it won't hurt to check them.

You would not happen to know the tollerances for those?

 

[Guigui]

(quoted from post at 19:22:59 01/07/23)

Yes after thinking about it I will weld, I have cast iron welding rod. I just dont trust my welding skills .....

May want to consider cold metal stitching, for integrity

As far as I know it has been that way for years and did not get any worse. I will groove the cracks, drill on each end and weld it. Just to make sure it is not leaking by any pinhole, I will JB Weld it

 

[Jim Becker]

You might consider painting over the repair with Glyptal rather than JB Weld. It may seep into whatever pores exist better than the JB. The funky red paint already in there is probably Glyptal.