Bad Clutch? Newbie needs help

[Dan Rissacher]

To start with, I'm a newbie tractor owner. Bought a Ford 545 about a week ago and I'm already having problems. Maybe someone can tell me what to do.

Its an 8 forward, 2 reverse manual transmission. If there's too much resistance (gear too low, on a steep hill, bucket down, etc.) when I release the clutch, the tractor simply doesn't move. No spinning. No change in RPM. Is the clutch slipping? Does that mean its failing? Or is this some intentional feature of this tractor? Or maybe I should just try to adjust the pedal travel (maybe its not fully engaging in the released position)?

Its most common in higher gears, but sometimes it even happens in 1st gear at almost full throttle (if I'm on a hill).

Hopefully I haven't blown a clutch in my first week of tractor ownership, but I can't think of what else this might be. Any help would be appreciated. I only have an owners manual at this point and haven't purchased the repair manual (I was hoping it would be some time before I needed one of those!).

thanks,
Dan

 

[Anonymous-0]

Before tearing into the transmission, I would Try to yank the clutch when letting it out, maby kick it with the back of my foot, or something. I would then check my connections with the pedal to the cable or something.

 

[rrlund]

Not really up on the Fords beyond the 8N,but is there any free travel in the pedal at all? If not,and if they are like other brands,there should be some adjustment in the linkage rod. If that's the case you might be able to get a little more life out of it by adjusting it to at least an inch of free travel in the pedal.

 

[RodinNS]

Provided you have about 1-1/4" of free travel in the clutch pedal befire you feel much resistance..... then the clutch is worn out. Check the free travel first. If there's none, then adjust it to that spec as the pedal could be holding the clutch partially disengaged. If it's right, get ready to split the tractor and replace the clutch. If the pressure plates is worn/grooved/scored, replace that too. Also inspect the PTO drive hub for wear along with the PTO input shaft. It's not uncommon for them to be badly worn as well. The flywheel must also be checked to make sure it's not grooved/scorred/worn the same as the pressure plate. If it is, take it off and have it reground by somebody with a flywheel grinder....

Rod

 

[RodinNS]

It's generally a good idea to replace the engine rear seal, and if this one has the aluminum seal retainer, then the gasket under the retainer as well. Transmission input shaft seal is also a good canidate for replacement along with the pilot bearing and clutch release bearing. Generally, you can do them now.... or later.

Rod

 

[Dan Rissacher]

Well, I"ve adjusted the pedal without much difference. Some folks have reccomended adjusting the clutch itself, but I don"t know if that"s possible in this model since I don"t have the parts or service manuals. Anybody know?

If I do have to replace the clutch, any idea how much cost in parts and how much time/cost for a pro to do it? I think a clutch replacement might be a little above my level at this point (but again, I don"t have the service manual yet)

 

[Dan Rissacher]

OK, so adjusting the pedal didn"t seem to help. Its got a good 1-2" of free travel. If I adjust it any further than that, the clutch doesn"t release all the way and I grind the gears when I try to shift.

What I"ve heard from some guys is that the clutch itself is adjustable on most tractors from this timeframe. Anyone know how to adjust the clutch on this specific tractor? Or can anyone tell me for sure whether this specific tractor has an adjustment?

thanks!