Bad coil?

[Sphere]

'52 side mount, sat all summer. No spark. Jumped ign. sw. to coil , have voltage at points , gap 015 or damn close. Analog meter shows very slight jump on cranking at the coil to outside of dist. lug. Cleaned points. Cleaned rotor ( but it sure is a sloppy fit, even with the clip) , wires are +/- 2 yrs old from TSC.

No voltage read thru coil lugs. Copper dohicky I replaced last year or 2 is still there.

What am I missing?

 

[JMOR]

'Analog meter shows very slight jump on cranking at the coil to outside of dist. lug. ' Try a test lamp, as can't tell much from meter due to unknown response time, speed of cranking, etc. Does lamp blink?

"No voltage read thru coil lugs." What does this mean? Meter leads where & under what conditions?

 

[R Geiger]

To start with the point gap on a side mount dist with round coil should be .025 not .015"

 

[Sphere]

(quoted from post at 11:35:48 11/19/13) To start with the point gap on a side mount dist with round coil should be .025 not .015"

I had them wider and same result. I'll try again.
Don't have a lamp for test yet.

 

[R Geiger]

Points have to be open to get any voltage reading.

 

[old]

Sat all summer so you stand about a 1% chance the coil is bad but a 99% chance the points are bad. Points 99% of the time sit closed when parked so they then in turn corrode so that in turn makes them not conduct power so you have no spark. Can take aggressive cleaning to make them work again like emery cloth then clean card board. While using a meter can work I have found the good old ways to be better. Simply pull the cap and rotor and dust cover turn ignition on and open and close the points by hand or with say a piece of plastic and watch and listen for spark. No spark when you open them then you need to clean them better

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 03:44:23 11/20/13) Sat all summer so you stand about a 1% chance the coil is bad but a 99% chance the points are bad. Points 99% of the time sit closed when parked so they then in turn corrode so that in turn makes them not conduct power so you have no spark. Can take aggressive cleaning to make them work again like emery cloth then clean card board. While using a meter can work I have found the good old ways to be better. Simply pull the cap and rotor and dust cover turn ignition on and open and close the points by hand or with say a piece of plastic and watch and listen for spark. No spark when you open them then you need to clean them better

I like to takethe wire form the top of the coil and hold it near ground when I open the points by hand, or better yet just hold the coil wire in your hand when you pop open the points. You will find outif you have spark or not.

 

[Sphere]

(quoted from post at 11:44:23 11/19/13) Sat all summer so you stand about a 1% chance the coil is bad but a 99% chance the points are bad. Points 99% of the time sit closed when parked so they then in turn corrode so that in turn makes them not conduct power so you have no spark. Can take aggressive cleaning to make them work again like emery cloth then clean card board. While using a meter can work I have found the good old ways to be better. Simply pull the cap and rotor and dust cover turn ignition on and open and close the points by hand or with say a piece of plastic and watch and listen for spark. No spark when you open them then you need to clean them better

I cleaned them with 220 sandpaper and I also went ahead and ordered the new tune up stuff from here, I had been putting it off for too long, it was a basket case when I got it and I know it needed more love than I could do at the time. The harness is a hodge podge , hence the jump from switch to coil, that old wire had visible cracks. So , what the hell, a new harness will at least make me feel better about chasing ghosts.

She ran great when I parked in spring after plowing, but I didn't roll it over at all over the summer, my bad, I know.
I think yer right the points HAVE to be the problem, they are worn well too. The rub block isn't shot, they weren't greased either, but the pads look mighty thin.

 

[old]

Sand paper is not very good for cleaning points because it leaves sand behind and sand does not conduct power so you need to clean the sand off just like if you use emery cloth Use a piece of card board like the box flap points come in. By the way most good auto parts store have points for the 8N tractors

 

[Sphere]

(quoted from post at 12:04:31 11/19/13) Sand paper is not very good for cleaning points because it leaves sand behind and sand does not conduct power so you need to clean the sand off just like if you use emery cloth Use a piece of card board like the box flap points come in. By the way most good auto parts store have points for the 8N tractors

Yeah, NAPA here is real good. I'll get new until the harness arrives and at least can haul firewood then spend the time on the harness. I may try another cleaning, I have all sorts of abrasive stuff. Thanks.

 

[souNdguy]

sand paper is a horrible points dresser.

clean up the points or get new ones.

bypass switch and hotwire coil. put a testlamp inbetween coil and dizzy. should blink.

no test lamp? get creative. even a trailer marker bulb will work...

,025 points gap on a sidemont.

PS.. get a manual...

 

[Sphere]

(quoted from post at 12:21:03 11/19/13) sand paper is a horrible points dresser.

clean up the points or get new ones.

bypass switch and hotwire coil. put a testlamp inbetween coil and dizzy. should blink.

no test lamp? get creative. even a trailer marker bulb will work...

,025 points gap on a sidemont.

PS.. get a manual...

I have the owners manual, didn't get the shop manual out of where ever it's chosen to hide, that is why I came here.
I'll snag a tail light off the trailer and use that. Thanks

 

[souNdguy]

have a manual?.. then read it. ( absorb it ). Fine to ask questions here.. but the basic data should be rote memory.

lil things like that points misadjustment will lead to poor spark and burn points. too little a gap will do that.

 

[Sphere]

(quoted from post at 12:39:06 11/19/13) have a manual?.. then read it. ( absorb it ). Fine to ask questions here.. but the basic data should be rote memory.

lil things like that points misadjustment will lead to poor spark and burn points. too little a gap will do that.

Excuse me for bothering you , I only use the tactor a few hours a year and I forgot most of what I knew from when I drove and worked on old ford 240 engines. I'll seek answers else where from here on in. If I could locate the freaking book, I'd a done that.
Damn, you used to be one of my favorite contributers, it was old 36 or some other grumps that I avoided. I apolgize for having a full life besides working on a POS 8n.

 

[36 Coupe]

The 8N has a very good owners manual.This old grump has worked on ignitions since the early 50s and understood how they worked.The side mount distributor is very easy to work on.You are the one asking for help.I dont need it.I know where my tractor manuals are.

 

[Sphere]

(quoted from post at 15:35:52 11/19/13) The 8N has a very good owners manual.This old grump has worked on ignitions since the early 50s and understood how they worked.The side mount distributor is very easy to work on.You are the one asking for help.I dont need it.I know where my tractor manuals are.

Sure, I had some life upheavals, I'll just go away, thanks for the help.

 

[souNdguy]

You want to be that way.. fine.

I doubt you will find the quality advice here, elsewhere. certaintly not at some ofther sites I know.

I said what I said for good reason. to help you remember it.

besides.. it wasn't forgetting the points gap that was the issue. it was the tchnique ( that you were not using ).. to daignose it that was the issue.

evidently the 240 didn't give you the same issues the 8n did.

we are trying to help you.

if you want to cop an attitude.. your loss.,

Those of us grumps as you all us. our tractors run.... not being rude.. just saying...

now.. we can come away from this and keep working on your problem or? your choice. I'm glad to help.

 

[55deere70]

Too bad a guy can't ask for advice without taking a beating...

 

[Sphere]

(quoted from post at 17:12:44 11/19/13) You want to be that way.. fine.

I doubt you will find the quality advice here, elsewhere. certaintly not at some ofther sites I know.

I said what I said for good reason. to help you remember it.

besides.. it wasn't forgetting the points gap that was the issue. it was the tchnique ( that you were not using ).. to daignose it that was the issue.

evidently the 240 didn't give you the same issues the 8n did.

we are trying to help you.

Thanks, I said that. I'll take it from here and see where I wind up. I've followed to best of my ability here for a few years, if my stupid overlook is now corrected, I thank you again.
I meant what I said about some "grump" that seemed to think everyone with an issue was a complete moron, I don't recall the screen name, but compared to a few others that were very helpful, that one kinda soured the experience.

I broke apart a 600 and got a new clutch in it, I did make a new copper strip for this 52 and trouble shoot all of this same stuff 2 years ago..I have since not had much time with it and don't wrench for a living so perhaps my capacity to retain archaic ign. systems is flawed.

I also had the 75 points or tips on my last computer as well as a lot of other diagrams and how to reminders, I no longer have that, or many other reference guides I did have, I came with question, I got answers, and I will take the proper steps as I can.

I can barely afford gas for this old relic that has been abused, and yet can still plow up a decent garden, and pull a trailer of fire wood, that is ALL I use it for.
Not copping an attitude, if anything I replied to one I perceived being put forth at me.

Pretty sure no further help will BE required, so I bid you all farewell for now and I DO thank you all.
Peace out.

if you want to cop an attitude.. your loss.,

Those of us grumps as you all us. our tractors run.... not being rude.. just saying...

now.. we can come away from this and keep working on your problem or? your choice. I'm glad to help.

 

[souNdguy]

the way the economy is going. not only will gas be too much.. we will be without insurance due to t he affordable health care act...

good luck!

 

[old]

One of the best things to clean points is a good old $1 point file you can buy at an auto parts store. As for a wiring harness I make my own which is real easy to do

 

[souNdguy]

i'd for sure put a real ignition hone on them before I'd slip sand paper between them.. to leave grit microscopic particles embedded in the contacts..thus leading to arcing and burning and more sanding.... etc..

 

[Sphere]

I have to show , It did run. LOL

 

[Sphere]

Winter is this

 

[Sphere]

I will or just have new points the pads are way thin.
Wishing this hadn't been beat to hell before I got it, it's my second 52 , I left one in NC when I moved, it was converted to 12V and ran pretty well, but it had been really fixed up.

This one so far has been good, I had to get the arm in the lift pump unstuck, new hyd. oil, the crabs seeps if the gas is left on, I guess the float...and a gasket. It's not the orig. fuel bowl so it seeps at the tank.
Proof meter cable is gone as well as the dial/face paint, Oil pressure holds good, but a little low. No smoke, good comp. head lights are fubar, sheet metal poor, rear rubber is shot, new battery...cables..

I traded a 87 Ford f350 crewcab, 7mpg 460/4bbl/4sp sounded like a toilet flushing when ya stepped on it, sat in the yard most of the year, just hauled firewood and occaisonal town runs for big/heavy...wasn't worth the INS and Reg. for the amt it was used, this at least has more use, and is able to get in the woods and work. And doesn't cost anything when parked.

Came with a 5' hog and no over run, I sold the hog , and also a beat to hell blade he threw in. I have a boom pole, a carry all, and plow and mostly pull that trailer and flip dirt, pull on rope to fell trees, drag stuff..it sits outside a lot.

Anyway..I'm on it , thanks again, I chalk it up to distracted, bad memory and brain fade. Probably some stupid took root too.

 

[old]

That is why I said a points file which are cheap

 

[souNdguy]

i know.. I was agreeing with you

 

[Royse]

If you need new points, and you very well may,
do yourself a favor and buy good ones.
NAPA part# CS753 or Standard Ignition FD-8081X.
They're only a few dollars more and last much longer.

 

[Sphere]

I heard that, avoid TSC.

 

[souNdguy]

tisco points are just pure junk...

 

[Sphere]

Carb rebuild is my next project, that and the right, un butchered steel fuel line instead of chopped up steel and rubber and a filter added and a 2nd shut off..cobbled up mess, but functions.

 

[Royse]

That's easy enough. Standard 30 inch brake line.
Seems like I've made a LOT of them!

 

[Anonymous-0]

he is just so full of himself ..

 

[DON TX]

May want to check your key switch. Jump it and check for spark. HTH
DON TX

 

[souNdguy]

all my tractors run

.. I see you provided a ton of good advice here in this thread PC... just stopping by for a bandwidth wasting comment i see. good contribution.

 

[36 Coupe]

A diamond grit file does a good job.Works on a pocket knife blade that is too hard for a ceramic sharpener.They come in 3 grits and they do wear out.Ive read that good quality points are too hard for a steel file.

 

[souNdguy]

yep.. hard to find a good quality points hone anymore... have to have a hard brittle file for good points with a hardface..

 

[Sphere]

just swipe the wife's diamond fingernail file..works like a charm.

 

[souNdguy]

a good, real points hone will be even more fine.. if you can find a good one.

and remember. most important part is to be square when honing..