Bad Coil?

[super99]

I have a 400 Farmall. I used it Sunday afternoon to move the trash dumpster out by the road to get it dumped on Tuesday, ran OK. Tuesday nite after work, it was drizzling lightly when I got home, and was going to move the dumpster back but 400 wouldn't start, turns over but no fire. Everything in the shed was wet from condensation, so I figured it was damp and would start when it dried out. I checked the inside of the distributor and it was dry. Tonite I got home and figured I'd try it again. Same thing, turn over but no fire. Took a tester and found power to coil with key on but nothing coming out the other side going to the distributor. Is the coil bad? I put new cap and wires on it last summer, so they should be OK. I thought you had power on both sides of coil and at distributor when the key is on. Is that right? I haven't had much to do with a gasser for many years, guess I need a refresher course. What do I try next? Chris

 

[old]

Check/clean or replace your points. Your points may not be working as they should.
Hobby farm

 

[Animal]

The distributor side of the coil will get juice off and on as the points break.

 

[Jerry/MT]

When the key is on and you measure the voltage at both sides of the coil you will measure battery voltage IF the points are open. IF the points are closed you will measure battery voltage on the battery side of the coil and near zero voltage on the distributor side of the coil. SO you need to look at the position of the points when you run your test.
As old points out, the points could be corroded or bad or mis adjusted so you don"t get a start.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Open and close the points a little with a screwdriver (with the key on) ,you should get a spark from the coil wire when held close to ground.

 

[KEB1]

Connect the test light between the distributor terminal on the coil and ground. Crank the engine with the ignition. The light should pulse on & off as the points open & close. Points open = light on, points closed = light off. If you use a digital meter instead of a test light, be aware that the meter can't respond fast enough to show the pulsing and you'll have to manually turn the engine to check the open & closed positions.

No light = short in wire to distributor or points gapped wrong & not opening. Could also mean an open coil, but a problem with the points or the wiring to the points is much more likely.

Steady light = points not closing or broken wire to distributor.

Keith

 

[Anonymous-0]

The capacitor across the points may be shorted ,
that will give you a reading of zero volts on
the distributer side of the coil .
just unhook the capacitor if the voltage comes
back you need a new capacitor .

 

[georgeky]

Condensors just up and quit for no reason sometimes.

 

[super99]

Thanks guys, I guess I wasn't thinking it thru right. I will try the points tonite when I get home. Chris