Bale accumulators and grapples??

[Casey in Ky]

I"ve been considering an accumulator system, but I don"t know jack about them. A guy close to me has an 8 bale Netherexe system, looks new, and seems to be priced right, $4500. Do these work as slick as they look?? One major problem I might have is that unless I"m crawling with my old New Holland 273, bale length might be an issue. Looks like that could really mess with one. Any input?? Thanks,

Casey

 

[Gumby]

I'm kind of doing the same thing. I don't really like the kind that drag the bales along the ground. The kind that dump a group on the ground seem the best, but also the most expense. I came across a simple system that will allow you to gather a group of bales (http://www.rockymountainbalesweep.com/index.php). I could easily build something like this and then commence to construct a grapple to lift the bales onto a hay rack.

 

[KIP in MX]

We used a Farmhand accumulator on a 273 then a JD 336 and it worked fine once we got the accumulator set up. You can't turn or stop while it's unloading, but at least it doesn't drag the bales on the ground. It had it's own hydraulic system, as did the F-11 loader and grapple.

 

[Chris in SK]

When I lived in the UK, we used the flat 8 system 20+ years ago and it worked well. We used an accumulator (meijer) that dragged the bales, and never had any broken strings with hay or straw. I guess if you have a very thin crop and drag them for miles, or very rocky ground it could be a problem.

We used a Farmhand grab on the front loader. One advantage was if rain was coming you could very quickly stack 8 x 8 bale's in blocks in the field. We then had another trailed grab that would pick up the 64 bale blocks. You could also use the loader grab to load/unload wagons, but needed some manual stacking to tie the bales in if travelling very far on the road or across rough ground.

Wish I could find some of that equipment here.

Chris

 

[Anonymous-0]

I went to a grapple system last year. Won't ever look back. The accumulator I built is based on this www.out-fronthay.com, and built out of some old pipe I had lying around. If you make a good bale, pushing it on the ground for a couple hunnerd feet won't bother it a bit. I built an 8 bale grapple based on the Farmhand unit out of 4x3" box steel and 1" steel bar. Whole shebang cost me less than $1200, including hydraulics. The teeth are pricey, about $18 each, but it's worth it. Thought about making my own, but the forged ones are stout and worth the reliability.
The 8 bale system works good because you can stack both across the wagon and from the ends, making for a good tied stack. I use ratchet straps to secure 'em down good for transport to the barn.
When you're out there doing battle, you sometimes wonder if the baling, accumulating, grapple and transport is actually saving you any time over filling the old kicker wagon. Then you realize that you've made and stacked 600 bales by yourself in a day, and still got in before dark, and not had to turn over any rocks to try and find labor.

 

[oj]

you and me both Chris...

oli in manitoba

 

[smallbaleboy]

do to business change i HAVE A USED HOELSCHER UNIT FOR SALE AND A KUHN UNIT FOR SALE

 

[Chris in SK]

Oli, my dad is still in the UK, so I’ve been thinking about getting him to pick up a flat 8 sledge and grapple, knock them down or cut them up and ship them… but thinking is as far as I’ve got! I only bale about 3-400 small squares a year, but they seem to get heavier every year….or maybe it’s just me.
The other thing I miss is a good tipping grain trailer.
Have a good day,
Chris

 

[randallk]

I have used an 8 bale netherex accumulator for about 5 years now. I love it. Bale length is not all that critical. Broken twine strings coming out of the baler cause a real headache in the accumulator though. They make a real mess. Dragging the bales on the ground has not been a problem. Once in a while you will break a twine string on a bale by dragging it across really hot, dry soil. (usually due to thin hay) I"ve also had rocks to break strings for me. Hay density has a lot (adtually everything) to do with how far the bales get dragged before it dumps. In REAL heavy hay, sometimes the accumulator can't keep up with the baler. The day I get rid of my accumulator is the day I quit haying.

 

[Chris in SK]

OF, how does it work, do you push this accumulator around catching single bales? The type I'm familiar with, the accumulator is hooked behind the baler, bales drop into it, and it sorts them into a flat 8 pack and they slide out the back. They drag the bales and auto trip when the eight bale falls into place.

 

[oj]

Where in Sk are you Chris?

I"m Just east of Russell, Mb...

email if you want.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yep, that's exactly how it works. Catching the bales is simple once you do a couple. Once you have eight packaged up, you just lift the boom and continue on. My beautiful young bride runs the skidsteer with the accumulator while I run the baler and it works out fine, or if it's a small field, I'll bale first then accumulate and grab. I know it's an extra step but 1) it saves the extra $ for the drag behind accumulator and B) my ground is hilly with a lot of odd shaped fields and the skidsteer is a lot "handier" than a drag type.

 

[Chris in SK]

Thanks for the info….I don’t want to hi-jack this thread, but do you think with some re engineering the accumulator could be made to pick up the bales, maybe by squeezing them somehow or would they be too loose? I know with the Farmhand we used to kinda push them diagonally for a couple of feet to get them tight into the grapple before putting the hooks in.
Thanks again,
Chris

 

[Chris in SK]

I'm north of Regina.

I'll try and send you an email.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Since the "fingers" of the accumulator extend longitudinally between the bales, I would think that any method of squeezing them together would be negated when the accumulator frame was extracted from the compressed bundle. Think if it as a big pitchfork. The bales line up between the tines. Even if you compress them from each side, you'll still have to remove the tines, either by backing them out or lifting straight up, and there will be a space where the tines were and/or the bales will be dislodged by the removal.
I "bump" the bales too before I pick them up with the grapple. I designed a bar at the root end and along one side forming a corner, making it easier to tighten things up. Only takes a second.

 

[Chris in SK]

Thanks for the info, there's nothing like that around here for sale, so I'll probably have a go at making something as you did.